Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Looks like I have to post an introduction post before I can ask the questions I need to ask, so here it is. Hello nice to meet ya. Been reading this forum since I decided to get a Victory. Thanks for everyone's time. You can call me MF, Mike FoxTrot, hope nobody has a problem with that.

I've had a number of motorcycles, stopped counting around 35. Same with cars, started early. First bike was a VeloSolex in 73, got the taste for that mixture of road grime, blood and dirty grease and could never stop. Near death experience in 86, took me about 20 years to get on them again but now I am as addicted as ever.

As of 3 days ago I have a 2003 Victory, wanted a bagger Did a little research before closing the deal and looked like if it had the Freedom engine I should be OK. It does. The guy wanted 2500 I paid 2000 cash, title on his name with the same address I was standing on, so looks like no issues there.

She seems to have a number of issues, some small , some not so much. I rode her home from Canaveral to MLB very carefully, got home and figured she had 5 LBS in the front tire ( ya, should have checked beforehand, but didn't. )

When home I noticed she had clean oil on both yolks, so likely need the fork seals. I cleaned it up and too her for a 10 minutes ride, when riding I could see the oil running up the yolks. Green and clean, which makes me wonder what's the real story there.

She steers like crap, but between the rear tire on the front wheel (without reversed direction, I'll have to fix that), the leaking forks and the 5 LBS tires, she sure will).

Here is where it gets more fun: I lifted the front wheel with some wood under the frame and with the wheel in the air, the front end has a big notch in the center. If I turn the front end to the left or the right about 5-10 degrees, it comes right back to the middle. It does grind and doesn't feel notchy all around, but it is as if the center position had a notch on it that makes the front end retuirn to that position.

I am trying to remove the stem cap bolt to look in there, check if I need to rebuild or if I can get away with repacking the top bearing, but I cannot figure out the size of the T socket I need for the top. Its nowhere to be found. I looked on the victory service manual, no mention of the size, I checked all forums, nothing anywhere.

Can somebody help?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
Welcome from CT. Now that you have your required 2 posts, the rest of the forums should be open to you.
Do you have a pair of calipers you can measure the size with?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hey broggyr thanks for replying. Yeah I have a few calipers. Do you know how to translate the caliper measurement to the size of the T socket? I have sockets up to T55, which is the standard max size on the Harbor Freight T socket sets.

I measured the T55 and the T45 sockets and tried to related that proportion to the size of the "hole" in the stem bolt, but could not make sense out of it.

If I had to guess I would say its a T65 or T75. Here is a photo I have found on ebay that shows the specific bolt head I am talking about

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,199 Posts
Welcome Mike, that is soooo cool you have a fix-her-up... Nice first posts...

That socket your talking about, isn't it just a AllanKey socket?

Can you post a picture of your bike?

Fork seals, can you try to clean them first with a home made SEALMATE.

Andre
TaPaTaLk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,375 Posts
Welcome Mike, that is soooo cool you have a fix-her-up... Nice first posts...

That socket your talking about, isn't it just a AllanKey socket?

Can you post a picture of your bike?

Fork seals, can you try to clean them first with a home made SEALMATE.

Andre
TaPaTaLk
Now that I can see it, it looks like a Torx screw instead of a hex key. I was thinking it was a standard nut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hey Andre, Thanks.

Its a Torx. The hex (allen) that fits in it is an H17 which I happen to have and it fit nice and snug. I tried it with a long breaker I have and it didn't bulge. I stopped when I realized I was actually stripping the bolt head. Up until that point I thought it was an H17 bolt, but after further inspection I concluded it is a Torx. With the bolt all rusted out it was actually hard to tell the difference.

I'll try finding a Victory/Polaris dealer and asking the Parts department to check if they can find that information. I downloaded the Parts manual and the Service manual yesterday and neither specify the $*&! socket size!

Any further insights are appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,199 Posts
The Bolt is rusted ¿ OK please mix some Acetone with ATF, it is the best solution for loosen bolts and rust, see below info.

Food for thought……

This is very interesting and could come in handy to all of the mechanical persuasion.

Penetrating Oils - FYI

Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that was very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils .......... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds

WD-40 .......................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ..................... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds

Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

ATF*-Acetone mix...........53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

Andre
TaPaTaLk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Here are some photos. Already took the windshields out and cleaned her up some. Photos are before and after. I'll add some photos of other recent bikes. Currently Fury and V92C are the only two.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the info on breaking rusted bolts. Wish I knew that 10 years ago while restoring cars. I had some serious issues with an FJ-40 63, where the grinder was the only way out. The 76 FJ and my 69 impala were a lot more gentle on me :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,646 Posts
That cap is a 14mm Alan. If it looks like a Torx. It is because somebody screwed it up before. You lucked out on that 03CC. I was going to buy it myself this weekend, and you beat me to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for clarifying. I will try with my H14 tonight. Might require some hammering to get it in there. The H13 is the biggest I could get in the bolt slot/cavity.

Yeah he had it listed for about a month and I kept looking at it online and considering it. I liked him, a straight shooter like me. Always good to do business with people like that.

She needs a lot of TLC tho. Just the project I was looking for.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,646 Posts
Do I need to take the wheel and forks out to be able to remove the top bearing and repack it?
Unfortunately the problem is most likely originating from the bottom bearing. Either way I would recommend doing both.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,185 Posts
MikeFoxtrot

If you don't know Kevinx is one of the smartest guys around for victories. He can tell you more then any of us. Trust what he says and you'll come out on top. He has a service shop

Good luck with your new adventure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
Can't really help but welcome to the Victory Forums and (judging by the pic in uniform) thank you for your service!

KevinX is extremely knowledgeable with Victory so definitely take his word!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,199 Posts
So it is an Alan, and a 14 mm, exactly like the CC front wheel Axel... Ok when I changed my front tire the 14 mm Alan was Sooooo tight that I needed full force and a newly bought key.... Ok so get the right tools for the job

* 14mm Alan key
* Aceton & ATF
* A home made SEALMATE for your leaking forks

Andre
TaPaTaLk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
That cap is a 14mm Alan. If it looks like a Torx. It is because somebody screwed it up before. You lucked out on that 03CC. I was going to buy it myself this weekend, and you beat me to it.
KevinX, the bolt head is stripped. The H14 socket cuts and rotates within the slot even after hammering it down a bit. The only thing I can think of is an extractor, which would have to be 1/2 inch at its thinnest. Any suggestions are appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
So it is an Alan, and a 14 mm, exactly like the CC front wheel Axel... Ok when I changed my front tire the 14 mm Alan was Sooooo tight that I needed full force and a newly bought key.... Ok so get the right tools for the job

* 14mm Alan key
* Aceton & ATF
* A home made SEALMATE for your leaking forks

Andre
TaPaTaLk
Thanks Andre. I will mix some aceton and ATG tomorrow and try that. The H14 I used is in good shape. I'll leave the seal issue for phase two. Now I just need the steering fixed.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top