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My '04 Kingpin is in need of fork repair. The right has been leaking for close to a year and no longer leaks because it likely out of oil. The left has begun to leak recently as well. I've had the bike on the back burner but need to get it repaired.

I'll likely remove the forks and drop them off at a dealer. I would however like to pick up the parts myself. Where's a good source for a rebuild kit? I've got 20K on the bike. Will I need bushings? Especially since they might be dry internally? Are kits for a fork pair? Thanks in advance your any help you can give me.
 

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My '04 Kingpin is in need of fork repair. The right has been leaking for close to a year and no longer leaks because it likely out of oil. The left has begun to leak recently as well. I've had the bike on the back burner but need to get it repaired.

I'll likely remove the forks and drop them off at a dealer. I would however like to pick up the parts myself. Where's a good source for a rebuild kit? I've got 20K on the bike. Will I need bushings? Especially since they might be dry internally? Are kits for a fork pair? Thanks in advance your any help you can give me.
DonWood website ....

https://googleweblight.com/i?u=https://www.victoryparts.net/oemparts/c/victory_motorcycle/parts&hl=en-ID

But you can actually source most of them in any metric bearing shop,


Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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My '04 Kingpin is in need of fork repair. The right has been leaking for close to a year and no longer leaks because it likely out of oil. The left has begun to leak recently as well. I've had the bike on the back burner but need to get it repaired.

I'll likely remove the forks and drop them off at a dealer. I would however like to pick up the parts myself. Where's a good source for a rebuild kit? I've got 20K on the bike. Will I need bushings? Especially since they might be dry internally? Are kits for a fork pair? Thanks in advance your any help you can give me.
If the dealer fits your supplied parts dont be surprised if the slug you what would be their mark up on the parts anyway if they'd sourced them themselves.
Dealers dont miss ya
 

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Assuming your forks are similar to those on the Cross bikes....
If you know which end of the screwdriver is the handle, you can do this yourself. Watch the different YouTube videos and you'll see it's not so hard that you have to have a $100/hour guy do it who might get it wrong.
Want some guidance? I'll work with you. PM me if you want help.
When I did mine, I put in 5W synthetic fork oil. I also took that opportunity to upgrade the steering head bearings to two tapered rollers from one and a ball bearing. Got the kit from Allballs. That made adjustment easier and handling better - don't ask me why, that came as a surprize.
 

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Assuming your forks are similar to those on the Cross bikes....
Do you have a fork spring compressor? Is one required?
 

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Do you have a fork spring compressor? Is one required?
Not needed unless you are going to take the cartridge apart and I didn't.
 

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No I do not have a spring compressor. I believe my forks are inverted, so I wonder if this adds to the complexity. I generally do all my own work. In fact I turn a wrench for a living. I'm just not sure if it is worth the burn to tackle it myself or have it done.
 

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Youre just wanting to change the fluid and seals , maybe bushings.
Mine will be due soon too actually cos Ive fitted the Kingpin front to my Vegas.
I think Ill be doing mine myself as well as the headstem to tapered rollers.
 

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I doubt very much you need bushing. Victory / polaris came out with that idea just to get more money out of you.
Yes you'll need a spring tool
 

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No, for bushings and seals you will not need a spring tool.

It's a pretty simple process but as with most things the first time may seem a bit daunting. Luckily for us there are these people who really know what customer service is. He's done more than any other retailer I've come across for just about anything.


This will make it super simple for you. Watch it a couple of times, pay attention and give it a try. You'll do fine.

PS. Don't let anything leak for a year. Or rattle, or squeak, or grind, or smoke, ete, etc, etc.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
No, for bushings and seals you will not need a spring tool.

It's a pretty simple process but as with most things the first time may seem a bit daunting. Luckily for us there are these people who really know what customer service is. He's done more than any other retailer I've come across for just about anything.


This will make it super simple for you. Watch it a couple of times, pay attention and give it a try. You'll do fine.

PS. Don't let anything leak for a year. Or rattle, or squeak, or grind, or smoke, ete, etc, etc.

Yeah, I get the above comment. It's not typical of me at all. I recently moved from Iowa to Colorado and the Kingpin just wasn't a priority.

It's been a really great bike for me. My intention was to buy another Victory when mine hit 15 years. Then I got the dreaded letter about Polaris dropping the line. Not sure what I'll buy. I respect HD bikes, but I just don't want to belong to the HD culture that goes along with ownership. I love the looks of the Indian but that brand has sunk and been raised so many times I don't trust them. Polaris adds stability, but that's what we thought about Vic's.

Great videos by the way.

Thanks to everyone for their input!
 

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I know there are a couple good Vic dealers in CO. You have some good country to ride in so get the bike fix and enjoy
 

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No, for bushings and seals you will not need a spring tool.

It's a pretty simple process but as with most things the first time may seem a bit daunting. Luckily for us there are these people who really know what customer service is. He's done more than any other retailer I've come across for just about anything.


This will make it super simple for you. Watch it a couple of times, pay attention and give it a try. You'll do fine.

PS. Don't let anything leak for a year. Or rattle, or squeak, or grind, or smoke, ete, etc, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4EvgiA9-Rg
Thanks for the vid.
Now if I was just draining flushing and adding new full synthetic fluid its gonna be a whole lot easier.
I dont thiink the fork legs would need to come out would they.
 

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Thanks for the vid.
Now if I was just draining flushing and adding new full synthetic fluid its gonna be a whole lot easier.
I dont thiink the fork legs would need to come out would they.
Yes think about this ... What would it take to just renew the oil in USD forks ?

Interesting subject ...

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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@Motorbikerx Depends how you are measuring the new oil. If you are doing it by volume then no, just pour in the oil. If you are adding oil by the standard method of measuring millimeters down from the top then they will need to be out and vertical for proper measuring. Just as an FYI, mine is 70mm. Others will differ.

A simple tool to make it easy.
 

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I have done it both ways. It would seem like it would be better to use the tool. The cartridge can be bled better, and you can do a better flush job.
Having said that, if lots of folks are doing it the easy way and it works, I may do that next time too.
 

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I have done it both ways. It would seem like it would be better to use the tool. The cartridge can be bled better, and you can do a better flush job.
Having said that, if lots of folks are doing it the easy way and it works, I may do that next time too.
Fork oils cheap...just do it with regular fluid to flush then when it starts coming out clean use the good synth stuff.
Like a cars auto trans ya never get a total change as theres a lot still in the converter.
How much is actually in the cartridge and hey in that vid I didnt see a cartridge.
Looks like regular setup reveresed..
Sort of...those in the know will get what Im saying
Ill find out soon enough as Im certain after 15,000 hard kms my stock fork fluid is now sloppy dishwater.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm going to tackle this myself. I'll probably remove the forks next weekend. The videos look pretty straight forward. Probably do just the seal replacement. Video mentions the Kingpin using 10 weight from the factory. I can't seem to verify this online or in the service manual. I would like to stiffen the front end up a bit by going to 15 weight. Any thoughts? Has anyone found a good homemade seal driver? The video shows exhaust pipe split lengthwise.
 

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It's been a lot of years since I played with it but if memory serves me right, thicker or thinner oil will have more effect on the rebound rate. The amount of oil will have more effect on the stiffness. Now at the time I also used preloaders on progressive springs so that too would effect the compression and rebound rates. Perhaps someone else here has some more recent knowledge on adjusting the Vics. I believe it was @Motorbikerx who did some work with valves not too long ago so he may be of more help.

You said in your first post that you thought there was little or no oil left in one of the forks. That is certainly where the softness would have come from so right now you don't really know what the original setup was like. To give a baseline to start with I'd stick with the original specs and properly fill it with 10 and then evaluate the response to see if it needed any adjustment.
 
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