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I've never installed the Kury brand but I've installed several other kits on different bikes. The main point is how hard you want to have to work to see the wires when your done, me I don't want to see the lights when they are turned off. I'll take off most of the body parts and hide as much as I can, take the time to plan it out and for the most part I've been able to attach to the bike's stock harness or hide along the frame. Another tick I've learned, tape on the lights where you think you want them and apply power to make sure the light is where you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That much fun eh? Maybe I should have a good look at the frame and see what I can before I start. The battery is right in the front and out in the open, and if I use what looks like provided terminal plugs it might be tricky to try and hide the cords.
 

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I look at it this way, the more time I take to hide everything when installing it the more I'll be happy with it after and the better it will look IMO. It is also too cold/icy to ride so if I want to spend time with the bike it will be tinkering in the garage until my road thaws enough to be passable again.
On a XC with the battery cover there is plenty of room to hide the connections on the battery and I know that you can get the control box under the seat or behind a side cover with no issues. Not to push you one way or another but I've been very happy with LED Glow products.
 

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I installed the large set plus two of the long lizard lights on my previous Vulcan. They are expensive and do a fine job lighting up specific parts of the bike. Each lizard light is only about 2-3" long and has only 6 or 7 LEDs in them so you don't get a long continuous string of lights. You can link them together but there will be lengths of wire and not lights. I also had the remote as well but that died within a year. The set itself comes with a switch that can be positioned up under the tank or somewhere that stays pretty much dry. I liked the ability to select specific colors or scroll through multiple colors. Overall, it was very easy to install. The wiring is a tad bulky with all the connectors between pods but as stated earlier, if you take your time and plan it well you can hide the wiring well. The wires are red and black so keep that in mind as the red one will be more visible. One other item to think about is the XC is a long bike so you may need extensions to get lights to the back part of the bike. This will involve more connections. My fear with this kit was eventual water damage at the connections. Using a dielectric grease on each connection should keep 99% of the water out. On the plus side, the connections between lengths of lights will make remove of the tank or other body panels easier without having to peel off the light or undo what hiding of wiring you may have done. Simply unplug that section attached to the part you need to remove and you are safe.

The lights can be set to solid or flash/strobe at different rates if you want. Check you local laws. In MA we cannot have/use "red or blue lights that revolve, flash or oscillate" while the vehicle is in motion on public thoroughfares.

All that being said, if I were to do lights again, I would take it to a professional installer and have long stings of LEDs installed with black wires well hidden. It would probably be a little more money but would most likely look much cleaner.

steviej
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Much appreciate all the feedback; giving me ideas and time to think.

I'm leaning towards a red glow and per your suggestion Chugly I'm looking at these: http://www.motorcycleledlights.com/Advanced-Red-SMD-LED-Motorcycle-Lighting-Kits.aspx

-- But only single color and the brightness may vary depending on light size vs. the Super Lizard set...but for 1/3 of the cost.

I have plenty of time and a heated building to work on my bike. I'm not the handiest, which is why I asked about difficulty, but you chaps seem to think it's easy enough with patience and that battery box hides well enough.
 
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