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I have installed aftermarket lights on my 13 XC on the engine guards. I currently have a switch installed on the upper part of the fairing near the windshield. I want to put the switch for it next to the radio where the heater switches go on the XCT. I have searched quite a bit on here and I have seen the police items from Tucson Victory that come as a package but I just want a single switch.

Has anyone been able to find a single switch that fits or figured something out that works in that spot.

I would rather have a lighted switch as the lights are directly wired to battery and I want to know when they are on.

Thanks for any feedback.

Scott K.
 

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I've been looking for the same thing with no luck. Trying to find a "factory" like switch similar to the heated grip switch that will go in place of the dummy (blank) switch on the right.
 

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Creek_IP;

That would probably work. Hopefully someone has a light switch like Arizona sells, that would be optimum. But here shortly I will find the schematics to that switch and use it if no other options come up that look good.

Thanks.
Scott K.
 

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find a switch the same size as the heater switch and put in that spot on the faring. Pull the cap off the the switch hole and measure it. Once you know the size auto parts store ebay or Amazon would have one. Even if its a three way switch you can leave on tab blank.
You really should wire so its on off with key. Look inside the faring for a wire
 

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Here's the switch on another members bike (dentdave). Found some here but I know I can find them cheaper. :ride: I have some gloss black Motolights on the way and want to use the factory switch.


 

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Like DentDave, I have the same optional factory switch; attached is a pic of my dash area. I believe it's part # 4011317, and lists for $25.99. It is an unlit switch. The only reason I have this switch from Vic is because at the time of purchase I had a coupon to spend on Vic accessories.

The spot in the dash for this is a standard automotive size. Any of dozens of switches from Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc., will fit. Unless you have a credit at your Vic dealer, no need to buy the official Vic one... and especially if you want a lit switch.

BTW, if you do have credit at a Vic dealer, I'm pretty sure that you don't want to get the switch (#29) that Creek linked to above. That's the grip heater switch, and it has two positions, plus off. What you want is a simple SPST (single pole, single throw) switch.

A lighted switch is often -- not always, but often -- a good idea. However, I think it's an unnecessary nuisance to have to turn off both the bike and a light switch. Just another thing to do, and even if lit, you may get distracted and forget to turn off the switch. I use my added Vic switch to control some MotoLights; they get their power from the battery... but via a relay, triggered by, um, I forget, something under the fairing. My point is that I would recommend adding a relay for your added lights (or take this opportunity to install a full-fledged fuse panel -- relay-triggered, like most added fuse panels -- so you won't have to deal with this on future mods).
 

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Almost embarrassed to admit this,
I bought a switch at Walmart, in the automotive section, that looked to be about the right size. It was an illuminated rocker switch, I think it was packaged by 3m or scotch?? It was a few dollars.

So when I got to wiring a switch into the bike, I dug the plug out of where the switch would go, breaking the plug in the process. OOps... Then when I tried the switch it was about 1/16" to wide to go in. I needed something to plug the hole so I took the 3m Walmart switch to the disk sander and carefully took about 1/32 off each side and she fit just fine. It even worked. The case was thick enough.

Not the best fix, but it did fill the hole and does work so I'm using it. Some day when I have time or it burns out I will take a measurement of the hole and buy a proper switch but till then I'm good. My guess is that the switch is a standard metric dimensioned switch not one dimensioned in inches. That is my best guess. I ran mine so the switch powers up a relay to the switch never sees more than the relay's coil as load. So the cheap switch should have the best possible chance of lasting for a while.
 

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First of all STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING! PUT DOWN YOUR TOOLS!

Sorry for yelling but I am a professional mechanic with over 30 years of experience (Aircraft A&P, IA, FCC) who also has worked as a motorcycle mechanic. Believe me when I tell you nothing good comes from permanently connecting any accessory directly to the battery except heated motorcycle clothing(the load is removed when you remove your butt from motorcycle OR a pigtail to maintain battery which can also be used to run a small battery powered compressor after plugging a tire or to maintain air pressure.

Go buy a 4 pole relay the poles will be marked 30, 85,86,87 then PM me for my # and I'll talk you through it OR go here:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
I've been doing business with him for over 10 years and have sent countless folks to him with not one bad review I've heard about about.
Or, go here http://www.autoswitch.com/index.php these are cool as hell and include a relay....I've personally installed at least 6 on my bikes and countless others on other motorcycles.

I know you're freaking out here but they are simple...I'll explain:


The 30 post goes to the lights and the 87 post goes to your battery. The 85 post goes to ground(a good frame ground) now here's where folks freak a little but its easy....the 86 post goes to one side of the switch, the other side of the switch goes to a switched (by turning on your key) power source...what I would use since the battery on the CC is in front and low is the low beam wire. Tap that on one side of the switch and the other side of the switch goes to 86 as previously stated.
What happens is when you close the switch, current flows to the relay charging the coil in the relay closing the contacts between the 30 and 87 contacts allowing current to flow to the lights. Remove the power and the switch opens...easy peasy nice and easy...ok?
I really mean it...I feel strongly enough about this I'll talk you through it...I don't think you need me to, but I will.
 

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measure the size of the hole and go here for switch's they have the right sizes.
Take the faring off and you can find a power source that will go on and off with the key. Even the heated seat wire will work if your not using it.

http://www.ottoexcellence.com/products/k1-sealed-rocker/
 

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I planned on using the relay that comes with the motolight wire harness. thumb up
Thank you for posting that....I forgot to say put in a fuse between battery and relay.

VisionJohhny..yup any switched powered wire will do..I only said low beam because I figure its easy to spot. Those relays don't draw anything. My relay on my 1050 Tigers lights is run by my marker light.

Dude..if you were in Phoenix I'd tell you to bring it over with a 12 pack and it would take me longer to pop the fairing than wire it up correctly.
 

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The 30 post goes to the lights and the 87 post goes to your battery. The 85 post goes to ground(a good frame ground) now here's where folks freak a little but its easy....the 86 post goes to one side of the switch, the other side of the switch goes to a switched (by turning on your key) power source.
Not to dispute your professional opinion here, but it really is better practice to get in the habit of connecting post 30 to your battery and post 87 to your accessory. It won't make a difference in this particular situation, but when you get into relays that have 87/87a NO/NC posts or dual 87 posts (for wiring up a pair of lights), it will save you a lot of headaches if you just keep everything consistent from the get-go. Even your Beaver buddy agrees with me here:

Beaver Power Help Page / Relay Pinout Info
 

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Go to any auto parts store and buy a blue lighted paddle switch to match the dash lights. If you bring the dummy switch in the parts store just match up the size.... fits right in and looks factory.
Tip: put a few coats of midnight blue nail polish on the blue paddle to darken the glow a bit. By the way, the switch is about $4 at AutoZone.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Go to any auto parts store and buy a blue lighted paddle switch to match the dash lights. If you bring the dummy switch in the parts store just match up the size.... fits right in and looks factory.
Tip: put a few coats of midnight blue nail polish on the blue paddle to darken the glow a bit. By the way, the switch is about $4 at AutoZone.
$4..... Tucson will sell one by itself, for a mere $28+11s/h. So the trip to autozone would have been much cheaper.

-Scott K.
 

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If you want to go ahead and install a fuse panel, here is a diagram i put together for the one that i use. accessory relay.jpg
 
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