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I run a '11 CC with the baffles removed, and the oxygen sensors disconnected. I always had a hesitation at roll on and the occasional pop-pop at decell. Put in Lloyd's idle air controller and I can't believe the difference. She pulls super clean and hard off the bottom and right through the powerband, and the popping is gone. Best $70. I ever spent. "My compliments to the chef."(also excellent step by step directions)
 

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Also, Lloydz air filter + timing wheel = power.
I have surfed thru all the posts just to avoid anybody for offending them by asking a question that is probably answered somewhere but I couldn't find where.

If you add a lloydz air filter under the dash, do you still have to keep the front filter in place?
 

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You might want to post on the Vision forum to find the answer to that one.
 

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I got the Lloydz valve, Did not help my popping...:( Going to try the Lloydz exhaust gaskets next....
 

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I love my Vic , but I find it highly annoying sometimes to have to ride in a way that is conducive to not causing a pop or outright backfire... I have had 10 bikes with exhaust and programmers, none of them ever back fired... I understand why the Vics back fire, but what a pain in the ass.....:mad:
 

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I love my Vic , but I find it highly annoying sometimes to have to ride in a way that is conducive to not causing a pop or outright backfire... I have had 10 bikes with exhaust and programmers, none of them ever back fired... I understand why the Vics back fire, but what a pain in the ass.....:mad:
Gunslinger helped me with my popping but giving me some tips on things to look at based on his experience. He also took me to school on the PC-V/AT. Although there is more to learn, he helped me to understand the basic methodology of the unit.

I read all of the posts and tried things that worked for others but it did not help me. My bike still sounded like I was being shot at. Here is what I did:

1. Removed any values in the ignition table on the PCV. It now contains 0's only.

2. Removed any values in the cells on the fuel map for throttle position 2% - 100% at 500, 750 and 1000 RPM.

3. Place -20 in the 750, 1000 and 1250 cell at the 0% throttle position in the fuel map.

4. Place 0's in the 500, 1500 - redline cells at the 0% throttle position in the fuel map.

Major change for me. I only get a pop at 2800 and 3000 RPMs if I hold it there to long. I am working to resolve that now. Otherwise no popping at all.

This may or may not work for you but I can get on it or get off and not worry about that popping like before. Others may not agree with what I have done and how I did it. However, it works for me.

Thanks again Gunslinger!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DBarnes
 

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Barned, thank you so much , one question looms however... I do not have the AT, but, can I go into my map and manually just change the selected values accordingly, that should work , shouldn't it? I always though you added fuel to prevent popping , I did do that manually but made no difference....Everyone here says its a lean condition, funny how removing fuel helps prevent it ... Thanks again!
 

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Barned, thank you so much , one question looms however... I do not have the AT, but, can I go into my map and manually just change the selected values accordingly, that should work , shouldn't it? I always though you added fuel to prevent popping , I did do that manually but made no difference....Everyone here says its a lean condition, funny how removing fuel helps prevent it ... Thanks again!
Yes, make those changes in the fuel and ignition maps manually. I was also told to add fuel to prevent popping. I put in the negative values in the 750, 1000 and 1250 cells in the 0% column of the fuel table because it idles rich.

I was also told to remove any negative values in your fuel maps and change them to 0's to help stop the popping. Why? Because those negative values takes away fuel. I haven't tested this yet but hopefully I will today.
 

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So any values that are in the negative , anywhere on my map, change to a 0 , except the ones I change manually to -20 ... Sound right? Thank you so much
 

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I found that unhooking the O2's and adding the VFCIII resolved 95% of any popping on the 11 Vision other than the occasional if I chop the throttle from wide up to close. I am planning on adding the the IAC and every time I say I will get it next month another positive thread pops up.. hehehe Thanks for the positive poke as that IAV resolves a number of annoyances. Got to get it!

Safe ridin, Tim
 

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Yes sorry.



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Install was fairly easy , although instruction's say to cut 1/2 in. off the IAC hose, if I did it again I would not have cut it.... It will fit better at original length. Other then that , very smooth and easy. Make sure you have a 5mm Allen wrench with the ball on one end to get at some of the screws easier.... You need to hit them from an angle.
 

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Although if you have a 2006 Jackpot , yours may be alot different then mine... Not sure on that one...
 

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Your XCT should be almost identical to mine....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I agree, I would not cut off the 1/2 inch either. On the test ride the hose popped off at the air box, so I use the longer rubber hose from the other end the directions said to discard. If you already cut the plastic hose just use the longer rubber one.
 

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So any values that are in the negative , anywhere on my map, change to a 0 , except the ones I change manually to -20 ... Sound right? Thank you so much
Save your old map just in case you need to go back to it.

Also, try it with all 0's in the 0% column of all cells in the fuel tables. You may have to adjust your IAV out a little more for this one.
 
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