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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lloyds IAC Valve --> Link = http://www.lloydz.com/store/item_view.asp?estore_itemid=1000078


***I couldn't get the picture to go in here - go to link above***



We listened to all the complaints of backfiring and twitchy throttle feel on tip in and decided to do something about it. All 08-10 bikes are non-serviceable when it comes to making adjustments. This component will fit all 08-10 Victory Motorcycles and will give you the ability to adjust your Idle Air at the turn of a screw. The I.A.C. (Idle Air Controller) on your bikes opens as the throttle is applied making a larger intake leak then needed to support idle air. Our new Valve will allow you to fine tune this for your bike.

What we've seen over the past year in developing this is that all bikes require a slightly different adjustment depending on the pipes, intakes and fueling requirements of that specific motor. The unit can be used on all Victory's from stock to modified in the 08-10 model years. The combined use with a Lloyd'z fuel controller is recommended for complete tuning of the fuel curve.

We've seen:

•Reduced or eliminated Backfiring
•Smoother transition on the tip-in throttle feel
•More Throttle response
•Improves the Lean Stall condition
•Allows Idle Air Adjustability
•Easy to install and use
•Specifically Designed for 08 Victory with Closed loop systems
Instructions:
Parts included in kit, 1 IAV with short hose attached, 1 length of 7/16 hose, 2 lengths of 5/16 hose

Tools needed for Installation

5mm Allen Wrench, Med. Screwdriver, needle nose pliers, light lubricate like WD-40

Ø First remove the right side cheese wedge cover

Ø Using a screwdriver Push the rubber hoses off the I.A.C. they are grouped in 3 hoses

Ø Disconnect the harness plug on top of the I.A.C. then remove a qty of 4 5mm allen bolts that hold the IAC motor and bracket to the engine

Ø Remove the rubber hose asm. Off the plastic lines with the use of the pliers, be careful not to break the plastic lines

Ø While holding the I.A.C. lubricate the large nipple of the I.A.C. with the adjustment knob in the downward position, push the I.A.V. and short hose on to the center (larger) steel nipple of the I.A.C. until the hose is full seated and covering the entire nipple. Then install the 7/16 (larger) hose on the I.A.V. Lubricate will also be needed here but use is sparingly.

Ø Install the 2, 5/16 hoses on the outer steel nipples of the I.A.C. no lubricant is needed

Ø The completed asm is ready to be reinstalled. On some bikes the plastic hose orientation may require you to cut a ½ inch off the longer 7/16 rubber hose for proper fitment.

Ø Lightly spray your lubricant on the end of the plastic lines, then Using the needle nose pliers carefully grab the plastic hoses and install them into the 3 rubber hoses making sure they are inserted at least ¾-1 inch

Ø Reinstall the 4 bolts, harness plug and cover

The basic adjustment of the IAV starts as follows,

· Screw the knob out a couple turns, while the bike is cold start it up and let it idle.

· After 45-60 seconds turn the knob in to the point so the idle just starts to drop, turn it out slightly to regain the highest idle

· The idle RPM should be no less then1000 rpm’s at this point

· If your using a fuel controller it may be necessary to adjust the fuel slightly leaner to achieve the correct idle fuel.

· Sometimes adjusting both fuel and air together can give better results

· If the next cold start doesn’t idle properly a readjustment maybe necessary as a result of the motor being to warm on the first attempt.

The operation of the I.A.V. is to cut down the over abundance of airflow to the cylinders while the throttle is in any position except closed. When you rotate the throttle, the I.A.C. opens creating a larger “intake leak” which results in leaner conditions that cause backfiring and poor throttle response. Just the installation of this unit alone may not cure all symptoms. Repairing ALL exhaust leaks and having a proper state of tune will yield better results. Certain Exhaust systems such as Victory Shotgun and Swept will cause more than normal backfiring.
 

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Lloyd'z Idle Air Valve

Hi, I am a newbe from Aus. I purchased a Vegas Jackpot in June 09 & after having a few problems with the issues pointed out by you I tracked down Lloyd'z & purchased a EFI controller & it was fitted by Victory Australia, the guys here worked hard to get the bike running well, a major problem has been fixed, and as a result other problems have been noticed most of them noted on the Lloyd'z website,
1) Lean fuel cut out.
2) Backfiring.
3) Jerkeness a low speeds.
4) Cold start, major backfiring, black smoke & stall in the first few minutes.
5) Bike appears to be running very hot.
Has anyone had the Idle valve fitted with the with their EFI controller & if so can the let me know has it fixed the the issues listed, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks & Regards
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Still waiting for someone to give us the scoop on the pop or lack thereof. My 2009 KP with dragpipes is a prime candidate...
 

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It helped alot on my 08 Hammer. You just have to play with it to get it adjusted right. Also, The way I have mine adjusted I have to hold the throttle open a couple of seconds on a cold start (like if I hadn't ridden in over 24 hours) before it will idle at the correct rpm's. I had it adjusted to where it would start right up, and, though the popping was greatly reduced, it still did it too much for my taste. Now it only pops if I mess up.
 

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08 Hammer IAC

My 08 Hammer has a stalling problem, I was told this is a problem with the 08s. I have a 2 into 1 exhaust, Lloyds controller, and a Lloyds airbox. At a stop light it wants to backfire through the air box and also when I down shift coming to a stop It will just stop running. I have a completly tight exhaust and the controller is ajusted a little rich at idle. Sometimes as soon as you get on the throttle it will hickup a bit, then you have to back off and try it again. Usually you have to give it more gas than when it doest do this. Iv had it stop to the point where I have to pop the cluch to get it running again. My point is, the dealer said a Lloyds ICA would help this condition, what do you think?. I set my controller to Kevins stats and thats what I mean when I said its set a little rich at idle.
 

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2011 xc

I had pretty bad pop on my x installing the thunder headers. I bought the iav from loydz and it did help but didnt cure it. I built the motor with 495 cams, port and polish, 10:8 pistons, removed catalytic material, exhaust scoop in transistion, improved exhaust gaskets, trued throttle body, PCV with autotune and made sure the tb sealed good to heads and rechecked all exhaust clamps. Ater tunning it I still had a pop on every other upshift and crackley on decel? I started playing with the map from fuel moto by removing afrs in 0 & 5% columns in the auto tune table and adding 5% more fuel to 0 & 5% columns directly in the fuel table and it got much better but still there? I've found that these motors love backpressure and any time you change exhaust you loose alot of it. I ended up bending out 8 of 8 sides in thunder header baffle to resolve the issue. Runs great and gained a ton of torque around 2k. If you have another exhaust you can cross drill the pipe in front of the slip-on and install 2 1/4-20 stainless bolts on both sides and get the same result. Hope this helps someone!
 

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I a had pretty bad pop on my X bike after installing the Thunder Headers. I bought the IAV (valve) from Lloydz and it did help but didnt cure it.

I built the motor with 495 cams, port and polished w/10:8 pistons, removed catalytic material in head pipes, installed improved exhaust gaskets, trued throttle body, PC-V w/Autotune and made sure the throttle body sealed good to the heads and rechecked all exhaust clamps. After tuning it I still had a pop on every other up-shift and crackling on decel?

I started playing with the map from Fuelmoto.com by lowering the Air Fuel Ratio's in 0 & 5% columns in the auto tune table and adding 5% more fuel to 0 & 5% columns directly in the fuel table and it got much better but not quite still there?

I've found that these motors love back pressure and any time you change exhaust you lose a lot of it. I ended up bending out 8 of the 8 sides (outward for more back pressure) in the Thunder Header baffles to resolve the issue. Runs great and gained a ton of torque at around 2k RPM's. If you have another exhaust you can cross drill the pipe in front of the slip-on and install 2 1/4-20 stainless bolts on both sides and get the same result. Hope this helps someone!
Dang Riprap!! You didn't leave any stone un-turned!!

Thanks for throwing this out there so maybe others with a similar issue can know where to look and rule out issues.

I hope you don't mind me doing a little bit of editing so maybe the more lay people can understand what you said better. :)

After listening to what you've said, and it's very clear you know what you're talking about, I'm going to cross drill my exhaust pipe's inside the exhaust tips, and install the bolts as you said, to regain some of the back pressure I lost when I drilled out the end plate to 1-1/8".

Thanks much for this tip because I do believe you're 100% correct on this.

BB
 

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Thanks for the edit BBob! Im ok at problem solving but not so much on the computer thing. This is the 1st site i have ever signed up on including facebook or whatever so if any one needs more info on this topic or dont understand my way of expressing thoughts let me know. I also need to add that when increasing fuel table 5% in the 0 & 2% columns if your bike starts and idles well then do not change the 750, 1000, and 1250 rpm fuel. Bob if your bolts add too much pressure then put them on the grinding wheel and knife edge them and reinstall with the edge pointing front to back. This will speed velocity back up a little. I love these bikes and want to help anyone resolve these little issues if I can!!! I dont know alot but am willing to share what I have learned. Ride safe and love thy VIC!
 

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Bub exhaust a few years back was selling drag pipes with a 5/16 bolt. He said you could screw it in or out and change the sound and power.
Any of the pipe manufactures and guys that build motors will tell you your a fool for not having baffles in your pipes. Why do you think they call them drag pipes cause there for racing.
 

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Bub exhaust a few years back was selling drag pipes with a 5/16 bolt. He said you could screw it in or out and change the sound and power.
Any of the pipe manufactures and guys that build motors will tell you your a fool for not having baffles in your pipes. Why do you think they call them drag pipes cause there for racing.
So very true! Even the performance baffles sometimes arent enough for the 106. They just have a problem filling the cylinders at certain rpms without enough backpressure. Amazing what a little screw can do for a guy!!!
 

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So very true! Even the performance baffles sometimes arent enough for the 106. They just have a problem filling the cylinders at certain rpms without enough backpressure. Amazing what a little screw can do for a guy!!!
Hey everyone needs a little screw now and again....But don't mess with the back pressure on your bike if you want your bikes to run after that little screw.....:ltr:
 
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