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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched all over and can't find a thread with settings for different
combinations and the effect of those settings. My case is the Bbob mod to my
mufflers with the 1 1/8" hole saw to the baffle block off plate and two 3/8" holes
to the backplate on my XC and tomorrow a lloydz filter. I am going to have a dyno
run done after the bike has 5000 miles. Seems like a good thing to help people set up their bike.
 

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I couldn't find a thread on this subject either. I've had the VFC3 in for a few months now. What I have found is that the Vic is very forgiving! (to a point)...I found a good baseline setting where I am pretty happy about the way it runs. G 1.5, Y 3, R 2.5, GB 1, YB, 4.5, RB 3.5. I recently made some small changes to see if I could address the occaisional pop out the exhaust when upshifting. I changed G to 2, Y to 4, and R to 3. I will keep it like this for a while and decide the next step, if any. Once you've found a good baseline setting for your bike, only make really minor tweeks from there. I keep the settings on a sheet of paper in my garage. If I make a change, I record the new settings and the reason for making the change. This way, I can always get back to a good place. Sooner or later I'll dyno it and see how far off I am...lol:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I couldn't find a thread on this subject either. I've had the VFC3 in for a few months now. What I have found is that the Vic is very forgiving! (to a point)...I found a good baseline setting where I am pretty happy about the way it runs. G 1.5, Y 3, R 2.5, GB 1, YB, 4.5, RB 3.5. I recently made some small changes to see if I could address the occaisional pop out the exhaust when upshifting. I changed G to 2, Y to 4, and R to 3. I will keep it like this for a while and decide the next step, if any. Once you've found a good baseline setting for your bike, only make really minor tweeks from there. I keep the settings on a sheet of paper in my garage. If I make a change, I record the new settings and the reason for making the change. This way, I can always get back to a good place. Sooner or later I'll dyno it and see how far off I am...lol:D
What mufflers do you have? Thanks for the response this is what I'm looking for.
 

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I got the stock, non stage 1 mufflers....All my other mods are listed in my signature. I am thinking about a set of RCX mufflers from WD, however. ..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Installed my VFC today and Danny from Lloydz included numbers for my setup.

1 1/8" hole saw to the baffle block off plate, two 3/8 holes in the end plate

Lloydz hiflow air filter


g-3.5
y-3
r-1
gb-0
yb-5
rb-3
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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I couldn't find a thread on this subject either. I've had the VFC3 in for a few months now. What I have found is that the Vic is very forgiving! (to a point)...I found a good baseline setting where I am pretty happy about the way it runs. G 1.5, Y 3, R 2.5, GB 1, YB, 4.5, RB 3.5. I recently made some small changes to see if I could address the occaisional pop out the exhaust when upshifting. I changed G to 2, Y to 4, and R to 3. I will keep it like this for a while and decide the next step, if any. Once you've found a good baseline setting for your bike, only make really minor tweeks from there. I keep the settings on a sheet of paper in my garage. If I make a change, I record the new settings and the reason for making the change. This way, I can always get back to a good place. Sooner or later I'll dyno it and see how far off I am...lol:D
Why the G 1.5? Gas milage?

Why the GB of 1 to control decel pop?
 

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if i remember right gb should be at zero unless running NOS
 

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Discussion Starter #10
if i remember right gb should be at zero unless running NOS
That's what I've read also but it was stated it gives a shot of fuel at letoff for NOS and it works for reducing backfire.
 

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Email Rylan Vos at the Vic Shop and provide ALL the mods AFTER you do them. He helped me reduce popping and maybe some lean running. Nice guy. Lloydz is helpful too and so is KevinX. We are not alone.
 

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1 is the lowest number, so thats where I put GB....I don't see a zero setting.....Does zero mean the light just goes out?:confused: I am perfectly capable of being a dolt...:D
 

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Email Rylan Vos at the Vic Shop and provide ALL the mods AFTER you do them. He helped me reduce popping and maybe some lean running. Nice guy. Lloydz is helpful too and so is KevinX. We are not alone.
My numbers are from Lloydz he included them on the packing slip and luckily after it's warmed up there isn't any popping.

1 is the lowest number, so thats where I put GB....I don't see a zero setting.....Does zero mean the light just goes out?:confused: I am perfectly capable of being a dolt...:D
That might be the case.
 

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Victory stage 1 pipes with baffles removed, ness big air sucker, and vfc iii settings: G-3, Y-2, R-1, GB-0, YB-5, RB-3. That's what Danny from Lloydz recommended for my Jackpot. No popping whatsoever. Doubt this helps any, just thought I'd offer.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Victory stage 1 pipes with baffles removed, ness big air sucker, and vfc iii settings: G-3, Y-2, R-1, GB-0, YB-5, RB-3. That's what Danny from Lloydz recommended for my Jackpot. No popping whatsoever. Doubt this helps any, just thought I'd offer.
All of it helps if not me than somebody that's the purpose of this thread. Thanks for the contribution.
 

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This may help or not. YMMV. Just something I acquired along the way and stuck it in my library of Victory things. This is first person but not me, I got it from someone else in another forum.

"The KevinX system for dialing in a VFCIII"

These are guidelines I got from KevinX at Gainesville Polaris to dial in a VFCIII. As you all know, all bikes are different, so take these as guidelines and not cold hard facts. In other words, if you can’t get your bike dialed in using these guidelines, don’t blame KevinX. It is also strongly suggested you study the instructions that come from Lloyds about the VFCIII. These guidelines assume you have a full understanding of what Lloyd wrote in those instructions.

Start with all the setting off or to the left.
Find a nice clear “closed course” to do the settings on.

GREEN: Run steady at 30 mph in second gear. Add fuel to the green until the surging stops, then add one full point.

YELLOW: Run steady at 30 mph in second gear. Smack the throttle and concentrate on the acceleration feel. You should notice it getting better as you add yellow. Keep adding yellow until the acceleration feels mushy, then back off one full point from that setting.

RED: Generally green plus one full point. If you want to play with it beyond that, try running at 60 mph in third gear. Do a hard roll on and concentrate on the way it pulls and how hard it pulls.

GREEN-BLUE: Leave off. If you have read Lloyd’s instructions you know what this setting does and if you need it or not. *** This setting is used when Nitrous Oxide is going to be used. It will dump a butt-load of fuel into the engine when the nitrous oxide system is activated.***

RED-BLUE: Generally 2.5 to 3.

YELLOW-BLUE:Generally 2.5 to 3."

As with everything, please follow the instructions supplied by Lloydz and if you're still uncertain, give them a call.
 

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I checked my VFC and can confirm that there is no 0 setting. The lowest number you can set anything to is 1. The light will not go out if you try to go lower than 1...Where does this 0 everyone talks about come from?:confused::confused::confused:
 

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it can go to 1/2, it goes from zero -? i cant remember, but when its flashing faster its at 1/2. i got rid of mine 2 yrs ago or i would go mess with it
 

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Current settings:

Green-2, Yellow-1, Red-1, Green Blue-0, Yellow Blue-3.5, Red Blue-5

A work in progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The green on mine seems to be on the richer side but the bike runs really good. I'll see how my MPG is when I fill up.

I do have some observations though.
My commute to and from work is almost exactly the same every day.

1.
Days like today 105+ the bike ran a consistent 250 now it runs a consistent 240 so the oil temp is 10 degrees cooler not a big difference but a difference.

2.
The throttle response is much improved.

3.
While riding in heavy traffic where you're in 2nd or 3rd gear and the rpm's are around 2500-3000 the bike would ever so slightly surge almost unnoticeable but now that's completely gone so it must have been lean at the rpm and throttle position.
 
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