Nah mate, just real BAD quality bolts & nuts are used on the vics, see the broken off piece ? Thats all white oxidized .... Crazyyyyy , also the rim shafts rust like that, even the engine bolts & nuts oxidate ... The exhaust is hanging of that bolt, so if this guy had loose exhaust flange bolts, all the pressure will be on that cheap ass bolt ...That bolt in the first picture was over-torqued at some point and cracked it. Rusted out in the center with only the edges hanging on before the break.
As far as long term problems go I'd say my left shoulder and lower back.
Nah mate, just real BAD quality bolts & nuts are used on the vics, see the broken off piece ? Thats all white oxidized .... Crazyyyyy , also the rim shafts rust like that, even the engine bolts & nuts oxidate ... The exhaust is hanging of that bolt, so if this guy had loose exhaust flange bolts, all the pressure will be on that cheap ass bolt ...
I had jap bikes standing in the snow & rain & sun, all year long, ride 6 days a week .... and the bolts looked better then on these vics , garage kept .... Ha ha ha
Andre using TaPaTaLk
Simple solution. Get a Mr. Fusion. See the movies "Back to the Future" for reference.My bike has a bad fuel tank. I keep filling it but it slowly empties over the course of 200 miles.
ExactlyNot likely. That bolt is not aluminum nor does the galvanizing plating (a surface coating treatment) process put zinc into the metal, it sits on the surface. That red is rust = steel. Oxidization = oxygen = air. Air needed to get into the center of that bolt to make it rust. It was cracked/flawed. On the piece of the bolt/stud still in the bike the rust goes right to the edge on the bottom. The shiny part is the separation of the only metal that was still holding it together. Left alone it will rust as well. Any white oxidization would be confined to the outside surface and only if it had been coated with a protective layer. You can also get a silvery looking separation of metal when really cheap pot metal has been used but that's not seen on high stress pieces. It's a metal best left for decorative attachments and Hot Wheels.
In my opinion of course.
Getting the bolt out isn't going to be the problem. Keeping the electronics safe while welding a piece of sch 40 black pipe on the broken end of the bolt with 309L stainless rod will be. Once you weld a short nipple without threads on it ( from the inside of the pipe with a low tech stick welder, 1/16 rod) the bolt will come free after it cools down, Just grab the pipe with channel locks and twist.. A shot of penetrating oil wouldn't hurt.Hard part now will be getting the swingarm off and whats left of the bolt out