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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, after listening, reading, asking questions, and especially with the help of our best resident Vic mechanic, I've done 4 mods that will give you the best seat of the pants feel in performance improvement at the lowest cost.

It's a combination of 4 things and if any of these 4 things are missing from the equation; there will be much less improvement.

1. Replace air filter with a high flow washable filter. The Victory one is fine. I used a modified K&N. Cost of this mod could be anywhere between free and $60 depending on where you get the filter.

2. Remove foam strip under tank for air intake. Cost: Zero.

3. Disconnect O2 sensors at the disconnect located about 6" back from the O2 sensors. Cost: zero.

4. Drill a 1-1/8" hole in the plate approximately 18" from the outer end of the pipe with a hole saw and extension's made for the hole saw. Cost: zero if you already have the tools or can borrow them. About $30 if you have to buy them like I did (from Lowes). Very important to make sure the hole saw and extensions are secured with the set screws in the extension or you will leave your hole saw in the muffler forever. Don't ask me how I know. :)

This allows the motor to breathe out and makes the exhaust a touch louder unless you really honk on it; then it barks somewhat but still not what I would consider loud.

If your engine grenades; hook up the sensors before having it towed to the dealer. :D

Total cost: Somewhere between $0 and $100 depending on where you might buy the filter and tools if need be.

I haven't put the bike on a dyno yet but my butt dyno tells me it has got to be at least 5 hp and maybe 8 ft lbs of tq more. It rides with 2 people on it as good as when one person was on it when stock.

I was going to make a cam change a high priority but after doing these simple things; I think it'll be just fine the way it is now.

Also, if you do everything but disconnect the sensors, it'll most likely be running too lean unless you use a fuel controller like the Lloydz or PC-V.

Edit: Warr110r posted a good thread on how he did the pipes and some vid's to compare the pipes.
http://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=4530
 

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BBob,
Is that a 1-1/8" hole, or one 1/8" hole? Inquiring minds want to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes. It's a 1-1/8" hole. Just needs more air flow. Sounds better too IMHO. :)

If you happen to have the tools; it's takes less than a minute per exhaust to drill out. A 1" or 1-1/4" might work too if that's what is available.

I'll make the original post more clear on the size.
 

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What's the ideal location of the 1.125 inch hole? Is it in the side of the pipe? Like, shooting towards the ground?
 

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Thanks for the tips BBob. I am thinking about pulling the seal under the tank but I've read it sounds like a vacuum cleaner with it off? What do you think? Is it a "good" noise?

Also, do you know if pulling the O2 sensors makes a difference when you have a Stage 1 map installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What's the ideal location of the 1.125 inch hole? Is it in the side of the pipe? Like, shooting towards the ground?
The best way to find the plate where the hole is drilled is to take something about 2 feet long and run it straight into the exhaust pipe. About 18" in you'll hit the plate that needs to be drilled out.

Obviously a new set of D&D's or the Vic Stage 1 slip on mufflers with a fuel controller is better but this is for us penny conscious folks. Or maybe for someone who wants a performance increase while they are saving up for new mufflers and a fuel controller (like me).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the tips BBob. I am thinking about pulling the seal under the tank but I've read it sounds like a vacuum cleaner with it off? What do you think? Is it a "good" noise?

Also, do you know if pulling the O2 sensors makes a difference when you have a Stage 1 map installed?
I pulled the seal quite a while ago and I did notice the sound a few times but then I guess I just adjusted to it as being normal and didn't really notice it anymore. I usually ride with the radio on too though.

Yes. Disconnecting the O2 sensors will make the ECM go into its fail safe mode and instead of trying to make the bike run at the EPA mandated 14.7 AFR it will put it into a richer mid 13's AFR which is much better for an air cooled motor.

The way to check if the bike is running too lean is to run it up to 70 mph, have it in 5th gear and hold that speed for a little while. If there's any surging; it's too lean.

I have one of Lloydz IAV valves which adjusts the leanness at the zero throttle position; like where it would be when idling. If it's set too lean; there will be some popping at times. I haven't installed it yet because I've been doing these mods as I learned about them over the last couple of months. I installed this valve on my 09 Jackpot with the Stage 1 pipes, AF, and flash. It made a lot of difference in throttle response and toned the popping way down. Like a good 90% better. I think they are $72. I'll come back and post about it in this thread after I install it and take it for a ride.
 

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I have done these same mods, air filter, remove the strip and disconnected the O2 sensors along with installing D&D slip ons. I'm waiting for my fuel controller and air valve, but I have definitely noticed a difference in the the bike. Throttle seems to have a bit more pop to it. I don't get any popping or backfire, but I haven't really jumped on it yet either.
 

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I have pulled the O2 sensor wire and the rubber intake strip as well. The butt dyno says that there is a significant improvement. Next I will be getting the air filter and drill out the exhaust. I keep promising myself that there will be no engine mods.

Just a quick question though. Is there a hole at all in the exhaust plate that I will be drilling. Just wondering if there is a hole to start from that would help keep it all centered.
 

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Bbob, How's the sound after drilling that hole in the muffler plate? Will the neighbors now know when you're leaving and is there a loud drone when on the highway?

Can anybody tell us exactly what that plate is that's being drilled and what it is made of?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The hole saw has a drill bit in the center of it that sticks out about 1/2" before the saw hits the 1/16th thick steel plate. It doesn't matter if the hole is off to one side or the other.

The sound is slightly louder barely perceptible at speed but loud enough to hear the engine running. I would guess it's about 5-10 decibel's louder unless you crank the throttle; then it sounds off pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have done these same mods, air filter, remove the strip and disconnected the O2 sensors along with installing D&D slip ons. I'm waiting for my fuel controller and air valve, but I have definitely noticed a difference in the the bike. Throttle seems to have a bit more pop to it. I don't get any popping or backfire, but I haven't really jumped on it yet either.
I don't get any popping on the XC either. I got it with the JP after installing the Stage 1 kit w/exhaust, flash, and AC (air cleaner).
 

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The hole saw has a drill bit in the center of it that sticks out about 1/2" before the saw hits the 1/16th thick steel plate. It doesn't matter if the hole is off to one side or the other.

The sound is slightly louder barely perceptible at speed but loud enough to hear the engine running. I would guess it's about 5-10 decibel's louder unless you crank the throttle; then it sounds off pretty good.
Did you need a special hole saw designed for cutting steel? So my neighbors won't hear my leaving if I'm easy with the throttle? But I'll notice some sound as I go down the street? What function does that plate perform?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did you need a special hole saw designed for cutting steel? So my neighbors won't hear my leaving if I'm easy with the throttle? But I'll notice some sound as I go down the street? What function does that plate perform?
Yep. You will need a metal hole saw.

I've answered the sound question the best I know how. I doubt my neighbors even know I did something different to my pipes cause it's still quiet for the most part. It does sound more like a motorcycle and less like a sewing machine now though. :)
 

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Yep. You will need a metal hole saw.

I've answered the sound question the best I know how. I doubt my neighbors even know I did something different to my pipes cause it's still quiet for the most part. It does sound more like a motorcycle and less like a sewing machine now though. :)
Ahh, thanks, that's what I wanted to hear. I'm not crazy about loud pipes, but I do want a bit more of a throaty exhaust sound to cover that sewing machine noise, as you put it. cheers
 

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Question about O2 Sensor Unplu

Hi. I made some of the mods as suggested on various posts and would like a little guidance. After each mod I only started the motor and ran it at idle, including a "blipping" of the throttle to test for any popping or rough running (haven't ridden yet - waiting on extended bars).
1) Drilled 5 holes (7/16 Dia) in the muffler end plate, both sides, just for some additional loudness. Bike idled and blipped fine.
2) Took off airseal. Bike idled and blipped fine.
3) Disconnected O2 sensor wires. Idles fine but now motor pops very audibly on decell after throttle blipping.

I usually associate the popping on decel as a Lean Pop; but I thought I read in these posts that disconnecting the O2 sensor richens up the mixture. Is there another step to perform after disconnecting the O2 wires (e.g. disconnecting battery and resetting the ECM, or a Throttle position reset, etc)? Is it possible that the popping is because it is too rich (and needs the high flow air filter added)??

Appreciate any info/troubleshooting advice. Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's possible but not likely. It takes a few miles of riding, shutting the bike off, ride some more, to get the ECM to make some small changes It can't do what an auto tune can but it can adjust some.

The high flow filter will be needed to get the full effect of the mods. Got to able to get air flow in to get air flow out. There will be some minor popping but nothing I would call annoying; at least not to me.
 

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Thanks for the reply.
What P/N Air Filter are you folks putting in? I recall reading something about making some mods to another Vic filter and laying into the XC.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I used the PL-1500 I bought it used from someone on one of the forums. I posted a WTB in the classified section. What happens is people would upgrade their Vegas intake to the K and N then later upgrade to the S and S so the K and N is sitting in a box somewhere doing nothing. I think I paid twenty or twenty five buck for it and trimmed it to fit with some tape at the top. The tape probably isn't needed because the vacuum will hold it tightly in place when the engine is running. I like the K and N brand over the type Victory sells. Just a personal preference. The Victory one will probably last a hundred k miles or more.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=PL-1500

PS: I only have partial use of my keyboard right now so that's why I didn't use the ampersand symbol. Expecting my new one in today.
 

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So with most of these bikes still being under warranty, what are your dealers saying when you bring in the bike for the scheduled service? I could easily reattach the o2 sensors and put the sound strip back on, but holes in the exhaust can be corrected. Im kind of afraid to punch holes in the exhaust, and then be told that I am responsible if something goes wrong down the road. Wouldnt a good mechanic be able to tell something wanst the norm when looking over my bike during service?

Really could use some info on this. Thanks
Travis
 
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