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Discussion Starter #1
Hey gents...

I've got an 01 V92C Deluxe that I purchased used about a month or so ago.

I took off on what was supposed to be a 1200+ mile trip last weekend, but it ended after 10 miles. Dealer told me the regulator went titts up.

I had noticed before this that occasionally, the bike would lurch a little bit...almost like it didn't get gas for a split second. But I only notice it after I get up to about 60 mph. I assumed this was also electrical and that it would disappear once they replaced the faulty regulator.

No dice.

I they called me to tell me the bike was fixed. I went to pick it up and returned it about 10 minutes later telling them that it was still lurching....stalling once I had it cruising at about 60mph for a few minutes.

They rode the bike again, this time noticing what I was noticing...but they can't figure it out. They're still diagnosing...

All the recall work has been done on the bike, according to their records.

Anyone seen this strange behavior before on the old v92's?

Thx...
 

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Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), most likely; a very common failing of these bikes over time. It's simply a variable resistor, and the internal resistive coating wears away at a range of travel where the wiper spends most of its time; this usually is where the throttle is at 60-65 mph. Replace that & recalibrate the fuel injection and the hesitation / cutting out will go away.

If the dealer isn't familiar with this idiosyncrasy, they'll burn hours of diagnostic time - have them replace it on general principles and be done with it.

It's a common item; if the dealer doesn't have one, just about any auto parts store should have it on the shelf. (FWIW, many of the V92C components are sourced from auto or industrial sources, right off the shelf - wheel bearings, injectors & injector o-rings, TPS, and ignition coils all come to mind.)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Interesting.

I called them just now to discuss. They actually claimed to just that minute be discussing this possibly being the solution. But they were still happy to have the help.

Seriously...I appreciate your help here. I'll let you know how we end up!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Heard back from the dealer today. They ARE seeing some odd readings on that TPS.

But the problem, as they report it, is that Polaris no longer sells just the TPS. It comes with the throttle body...and they want near $400 for it.

So, I'm looking on line to see if I can source this part myself...but I'm a total idiot when it comes to this stuff. Though, it looks like I'm gonna be forced to learn if I don't want to go broke getting this bike on the road.

I don't suppose someone could spoon feed me a link to source the correct TPS?

Thanks again....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A little more searching, I'm sure I found the TPS Sensor for 2001 V92C at Napa, part no. 2-19187

Anyone care to confirm I'm looking at the right one?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Whelp...problems solved. That NAPA TPS worked fine.

She's finally feeling really good under me. Took her out for an hour-long ride in the 106 degree heat yesterday after the TPS was dropped in. Everything felt brand new...no cutting out, no attempted stalling, no dead spots in the throttle.

Now...if we could just get back in the 90's here, I'd be a happy camper.

Thanks for you help...appreciated SO MUCH!
 

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Glad to hear it! That's one of those niggling things that happen which can take a lot of diagnostic time if the mechanic isn't aware of it as being a common issue to the early bikes...

One of the nice benefits of the Vic community (here & on other sites) is the ability to share and learn from the experiences of many others... The synergy from accumulated knowledge and experiences of many other Vic owners is quite valuable.

It is quite a change when you put in the new TPS - almost feels like a new bike, doesn't it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
True...I'm new around here, but already very happy about the wealth of info shared here.

I really didn't want to overstate the difference in the bike after the TPS was replaced, but there really were a handful of other things I couldn't put my finger on...where the bike felt "funny".

All of those were gone, and obviously so during the first few seconds as I pulled out onto the road from the dealer. Throttle roll off was a big one that was much smoother in the ride. Slow rolling in first at idle was more intuitive. I still can't even begin to explain the differences. Just smoother all over. It was nice to finally garage the thing knowing it was running just as good an hour later as it was when I started it. That's a first for this bike. I bought it used from an individual a couple of months ago, and it has had small issues from the beginning...which were turning into bigger issues. It looks like we've got it all figured out now. And with what I gave for it, combined with what I've put into it, I'm still in good shape. A lot of bike for the money.
 

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TPS PN# and recal question

AutoZone also has this TPS. their # is TPS140. it is mentioned in a few posts that you may need to recalibrate the throttle, how do you do this? i could not find this info anywhere.
 

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I don't have the full procedure available off-hand, but it involves putting a jumper across terminals B & E on the diagnostic plug by the ECM (under the right side cover) and tweaking the throttle stop screw on the throttle body to get the proper idle.

Don't try it from my brief description, though - although it's not difficult, it does require that the steps be done in order...

If you Google "set TPS Victory hammer engine" you'll find everything you need to know.
 

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Details Please

Great post. My 2001 V92C Deluxe (my first bike) is going through all that you describe in this post. I'm taking this process slow. Last weekend I pulled the tank and cleaned the throttle bodies. The idle smoothed right out. Now I'll attack the lurching. I bought the NAPA TPS and want to install it. Sounds like the tank has to come off again. My questions are:
Can the tank be pulled with fuel inside? If so how?
Do I have to remove the air box to get to the TPS? How?
What type of screw are used to secure the TPS? phillips/Hex/torx?
What driver/ratchet works best?

Now that the weather's getting colder I can spend some time getting her in optimal running condition.

Thank goodness for this forum. You guys are great! One of the simple pleasures I get, is doing real work on my bike, not just polishing the paint & chrome.
 

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My questions are:
Can the tank be pulled with fuel inside? If so how?
Do I have to remove the air box to get to the TPS? How?
What type of screw are used to secure the TPS? phillips/Hex/torx?
What driver/ratchet works best?
The tank can be pulled with fuel inside, so long as the quick-disconnect is intact & seals properly; however, it can be a real PITA to do it solo with fuel sloshing around in it - best to have some good help... Also, be VERY, VERY careful with the quick-disconnect fittings - the two pieces are almost $100 from Victory. Don't put any side loads on them as you separate them - otherwise, you'll run a good chance of breaking something. Keep the latch in, use careful, gentle twisting on the bottom part if necessary, and pull straight apart. When reconnecting the fitting, press the latch in as well - if you rely on the stop, it may shave a bit off the O-ring, causing it to leak. (Easy replacement, though - 5/16 id x 7/16 od if my memory is right.)

(The above cautions presume that your '01 has the same Q-D fittings as my '99 - if not, never mind... You've already pulled the tank once, so you know what's involved.)

The TPS uses two screws to hold it on, and I think it can be accessed with the air box in place. (Not 100% sure, but once you get the tank off it'll all be pretty straightforward...) You shouldn't need any particular specialty tools - if I recall correctly, a short #1 Phillips should do the job.
 

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The tank can be pulled with fuel inside, so long as the quick-disconnect is intact & seals properly; however, it can be a real PITA to do it solo with fuel sloshing around in it - best to have some good help... Also, be VERY, VERY careful with the quick-disconnect fittings - the two pieces are almost $100 from Victory. Don't put any side loads on them as you separate them - otherwise, you'll run a good chance of breaking something. Keep the latch in, use careful, gentle twisting on the bottom part if necessary, and pull straight apart. When reconnecting the fitting, press the latch in as well - if you rely on the stop, it may shave a bit off the O-ring, causing it to leak. (Easy replacement, though - 5/16 id x 7/16 od if my memory is right.)

(The above cautions presume that your '01 has the same Q-D fittings as my '99 - if not, never mind... You've already pulled the tank once, so you know what's involved.)

The TPS uses two screws to hold it on, and I think it can be accessed with the air box in place. (Not 100% sure, but once you get the tank off it'll all be pretty straightforward...) You shouldn't need any particular specialty tools - if I recall correctly, a short #1 Phillips should do the job.
Colorado thanks for the insight!
Looks like they made some design changes between 99' & 01'. No QD's and the TPS is buried under the air box. When I pulled the tank to clean the throttle bodies, I tried to figure out how to pull the air box and get at the TPS even though I hadn't purchased the sensor. Since I had a planned club ride the following day, I terminated the effort before completion. Now I've got the sensor in hand and just need to figure out how to get it out and get the new one in. Maybe someone with an 01' has endeavored and succeeded in this procedure?
 

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replacing TPS

I just replaced my TPS on my "00 V92C, MY air box does not come out. i think the engine has to be removed to get he air box out? If im wrong please let me know but i was not able to remove my air box. MY TPS was held on by two allen screws. i was abe to get them out with out removing the air box....it took some work but it did come out. I did have to recal the ECM after the new one was installed. the bike ran real rich, and would not idle. After the recal the bike ran great. the link is in an earler posting. let me know how yours turned out!
 

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Kwasiak, thanks for the quick response! I suspected as much. Did you have to lift the tank to make room to maneuver the allan wrenches to turn the screws? I guess I'll need to go out an get some long-reach allan wrenches. Also, how do you do the recal? I've been searching threads and everyone writes about the recal but I haven't found a thread with the specific procedure?
 

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Kwasiak, thanks for the quick response! I suspected as much. Did you have to lift the tank to make room to maneuver the allan wrenches to turn the screws? I guess I'll need to go out an get some long-reach allan wrenches. Also, how do you do the recal? I've been searching threads and everyone writes about the recal but I haven't found a thread with the specific procedure?
99V92C.....................

It may not even require calibration. If its way out in the weeds and running really rough do the static reset first.

TB butterfly must be closed. Idle screw turned out (if necessary) and fast idle lever off. You may adjust idle down till it doesn't go any lower to know its closed.

Jump pins B and E on the diagnostic connector at the ECU, right side cover comes off its right there for ya. Pins are marked on connector

Turn ignition on with key (not kill switch but kill switch is in run position) but do not start the motorcycle.

Keep the key on for a 30 count. Then turn it back off.

Remove jumper and start the motorcycle. This procedure will give you a base line and should be running smooth enough to perform the dynamic reset.

jb
 

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DrGDR.... sorry i didn't get back sooner., long weekend. U can reach the idle screw without removing the tank. I was not able to find a long enough allen wrench to reach the screws, i ended up using a reg allen wrench wiith a wrench on the end of it to break them free. The tank was removed for thispart of the process.
I did as jbasile stated, the bike ran a lot better.




If you Google "set TPS Victory hammer engine" you'll find everything you need to know
 

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kwasiak & jbasile - Thanks for all the info. I'll give it a try this weekend and see how I make out. Been searching for a long allen wrench to no avail. I'll definitely be challenged to make this happen.
 

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THANK YOU ALL!!!
Just took my first ride after replacing the TPS and completing the Recal. What huge difference. even at low speeds I feel the difference! although the TPS was a real bugger to remove (took a while to get the knack of twisting the screws 1/8 turn at a time). I found using a 4" long, 2.5mm long ball end allan wrench to work best for the far side screw head.

Just my luck though, while on my ride the speedo crapped out. I checked the fuses and they're all fine. Not going to stress too much right now. My tach is still good and I can pretty much gage the speed by the traffic.
Thanks again guys!
 
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