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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I've heard others ask about the ticking on their victory and most on here have said it's normal. I on the other hand have not had ticking on my bike...at least nothing that you can notice unless really paying attention. This morning I fired my bike up and my attention was immediately brought to the ticking noise. It doesn't sound real bad and on many bikes may even sound normal...but like I said, mine has not been like that. I rode it to work and could hear the ticking along the way. After work I fired her up, same ticking after running for a minute, I gave it a little blip on the throttle and the noise I heard was something I've never heard and hard to describe. I gave it another blip and the noise repeated...almost like a metal rattle. I paused a moment then another blip and no noise. Rode it home and have not heard the noise on the ride home. I'm approaching my next oil change at 4,500 miles and have some Amsoil on the shelf waiting to go in along with a new magnetic drain plug. I checked my oil level and it's just a bit over the full line (must be from fuel). I took a small extendable magnet and ran it down the fill hole and moved it around on the bottom. There was metal on the magnet. No chunks or anything shiny. More like fine black shavings and barely enough to cover the top of the magnet which has the diameter of a pen. So to recap, I've heard two noises my bike has never made. 1. the audible tapping 2. a metal rattle sound when I blipped the throttle which hasn't repeated after 2nd blip. And then there was the fine metal shavings.

I just went to the garage after the above paragraph because I have a stethoscope in my garage. I fired her up, let oil get cirulating good then blipped the throttle a bit...twice. No noise. Tapping is there and can hear it at the bike but standing 6 feet behind the bike you can't hear it. I put my scope on the crankcase and sounds good, no noise. I put it on the cylinder and they sound real good too. Put the scope on the top covers and I hear the tapping. So it's my valves that have got louder.

What's ya'lls thoughts and opinions. All are welcome. Thanks fellas.
 

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Still new to Vic's but on my old 79 xs650 that sound is either cam chain needs adjusted or valves need adjusted. But from what's understand with these motors it could just be a stuck lifter and I have heard to just "ride it out" . But with that few miles on it it should be warranty work if its actually something wrong. Again still new to Vic's but not motors trying to learn how ours work and problems that might go with it.


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If the sound is there in neutral, but disappears when you pull in the clutch and put it in gear, that's the torque compensator. Lots of Vics do that.

Is your idle very low? You need to keep the idle up around 1000 rpm. On cold start you want to be around 1250 rpm for 2-3 minutes.

I have roughly 70K miles on the Kingpin. It NEVER uses a drop of oil. In fact, I rarely check the oil any more because it's always full. I have never run a magnet through the oil because I have no reason to suspect metal in it, just like I have never checked my car for metal in the oil.

Your bike is very new. You may see slight metalic filings on break-in, but that should pretty much be over with by now.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If the sound is there in neutral, but disappears when you pull in the clutch and put it in gear, that's the torque compensator. Lots of Vics do that.

Is your idle very low? You need to keep the idle up around 1000 rpm. On cold start you want to be around 1250 rpm for 2-3 minutes.

I have roughly 70K miles on the Kingpin. It NEVER uses a drop of oil. In fact, I rarely check the oil any more because it's always full. I have never run a magnet through the oil because I have no reason to suspect metal in it, just like I have never checked my car for metal in the oil.

Your bike is very new. You may see slight metalic filings on break-in, but that should pretty much be over with by now.
I noted the RPM on start up this morning. 1250 on the money then gradually stepped down. Settled at 1000 by the time I geared up and was ready to ride.

The noise is at the valves, I confirmed that with my stethascope last night. Putting my scope on the cylinders and anywhere below you can not hear the tapping through the scope, just at the valve cover. The tapping does not go away with clutch pulled or going down the road. The other day was in the 50's so it was a no helmet ride when I could hear it going down the road. This morning was in the 30's so it was a full face helmet ride and you can't hear it inside the helmet...so it's not too loud.

Also, that metal rattle I described earlier did not repeat at all today. In case it matters, she was on the side stand in neutral when I reved it yesterday and heard the strange noise, have not heard it since. :confused:

I've read most engines will get shavings during break in. My bike is still on the same oil after the 500 mile inspection. The 500 mile is the only oil change its had so far. Should I go ahead and change my oil now? I'm sure it's broke in, I don't like those shavings in my oil...
 

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While extremely rare; once in a while there is a motor that might have a sub par part in it somewhere.

Best thing to do is take it to your dealer have it documented and let them tell you it's normal. I can almost guaranty you they will say that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
While extremely rare; once in a while there is a motor that might have a sub par part in it somewhere.

Best thing to do is take it to your dealer have it documented and let them tell you it's normal. I can almost guaranty you they will say that.
You're right Bob, I really should take her to the dealer for the oil change so they can tell me it's normal. Problem is it's very difficult to arrange for a drop off / pick up. My bike is my daily transportation all year long. I have a truck collecting dust and I'd rather it collect more dust. thumb up plus I have Amsoil and filter on my shelf already...Let me ask your opinion on this...what if I were to record my oil change AND send an oil sample out to a lab? Lets say the camera records me loosening the drain plug, quickly filling up the lab container first, show a clean magnet to the camera then allow the remaining oil to drain onto the magnet so it can pick up any visible metal then directly show the magnet to the camera then seal the lab container in the shipping package?

At the dealer, the mechanic would rub oil between his fingers and say "yup, its good". A lab test will document exact contaminations and at what levels.

Do you think if I have a failure in the near future needing warranty work that the above would hold up?
 

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In your first post you say you have 4500 miles on the bike and then in your next post you say you still have the oil in from the 500 mile check up.
Yes change oil keep in mind when you park the bike oil is hot and can drain out of a lifter. So when you start it there is no oil and you get this ticking noise.
Keep your ears clean and see what you come up with
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In your first post you say you have 4500 miles on the bike and then in your next post you say you still have the oil in from the 500 mile check up.
Yes change oil keep in mind when you park the bike oil is hot and can drain out of a lifter. So when you start it there is no oil and you get this ticking noise.
Keep your ears clean and see what you come up with
Yes, that's correct. I had the 500 mile service done...actually at 475. My bike now has 4500 so I have 4025 miles on this oil. Wasn't actually due until 5,000 on the odometer but the fine metal has me concerned. I've fired this bike up every morning since the middle of last August when I bought it, I ride this beast every single day, I know all of the sounds and noises she makes. I'm telling ya, this tapping got louder. When I mentioned that I could hear it all the way to work (20 minute ride) she is at normal operating temerature. The tapping was still louder than it's been the previous 4,500 miles BUT not loud enough to where you can hear it standing 6 ft behind the bike.

I realize that we never know what the experiance is of the rider/driver and do they really understand what they are hearing. Maybe they don't fully understand the way an engine works. While I'm not a motorcycle mechanic per say...I am an ASE certified automotive mechanic and I can tell subtle differances in noises with an engine. I understand exactly how they work. I can recognize an abnormal sound in a car months before the average driver can and can usually tell you what may be going on...at least get in the ball park. Trust me when I say something changed. What I'm trying to figure out is if this change is normal with a Victory bike after it's fully broke in or is the Victory oil is loosing its ability to properly lubricate? Do they all tap at this decibal and was mine the exceptionally quiet one for the first 4500 miles?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I just called and orderd an oil analysis kit from Amsoil. It gets sent to Polaris labs.
 

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Had the identical problem last year on a long ride. On startup, I was getting head rattle, whether hot or cold. It started around 4700 miles as we were making our way from Idaho into eastern Oregon. Took a few hours trying to find the local Amsoil dealer in Baker City. He did not have the 10-40 in the quantity I needed. Hit the Napa dealer, found some Royal Purple to do the job and a small motorcycle/auto shop just down the street let me change it out using his tools for $10. No more probs after that. Bottom line was that I will not ever use Vic oil, again. It was wasted around 4k. My bottom line is, if the oil will not last 5k, it will not go into my vehicles. Let us know what happens after your oil change.
Regards, Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Had the identical problem last year on a long ride. On startup, I was getting head rattle, whether hot or cold. It started around 4700 miles as we were making our way from Idaho into eastern Oregon. Took a few hours trying to find the local Amsoil dealer in Baker City. He did not have the 10-40 in the quantity I needed. Hit the Napa dealer, found some Royal Purple to do the job and a small motorcycle/auto shop just down the street let me change it out using his tools for $10. No more probs after that. Bottom line was that I will not ever use Vic oil, again. It was wasted around 4k. My bottom line is, if the oil will not last 5k, it will not go into my vehicles. Let us know what happens after your oil change.
Regards, Jim
Thanks Jenkins, I was hoping somebody would comment on having the same issue and it turning out to be oil. As I mentioned earlier, I have an Amsoil oil change kit just waiting in the garage. I want to prove or verify that its the oil breaking down. Hopefuly it will only take a couple days for my oil analysis kit to arrive...I'll change my oil out then and I'll post after oil change and again after I get the analysis back.
 

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Bro, do what you think you must, but I think this is simply a case of buyers remorse coupled with the reality of making payments on something and then having to do without something else.

It has happened to most of us a time or ten over the years.

If the Vic oil just happened to wear out at 4,500 miles instead of the supposed 5,000 miles during break in; I am not seeing a problem. Just change the oil, do a hundred oil analysis's if you like and just ride the piss out of it. If it makes you feel better; run Amsoil or whatever oil you think is superior to the Vic blend. You are not the first and won't be the last to have these ideas and thoughts.

Did you have any other concerns that are not unique to your bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bro, do what you think you must, but I think this is simply a case of buyers remorse coupled with the reality of making payments on something and then having to do without something else.

It has happened to most of us a time or ten over the years.

If the Vic oil just happened to wear out at 4,500 miles instead of the supposed 5,000 miles during break in; I am not seeing a problem. Just change the oil, do a hundred oil analysis's if you like and just ride the piss out of it. If it makes you feel better; run Amsoil or whatever oil you think is superior to the Vic blend. You are not the first and won't be the last to have these ideas and thoughts.

Did you have any other concerns that are not unique to your bike?
You got it completely wrong. Buyer remorse? Are you kidding me? I have the badest bike on the road...not too mention the best looking. I wouldn't sell my bike even if I was offered 5 grand more than what I paid new. They aint making these Kingpins anymore. I stared at pictures of this bike for a year before buying. I lost sleep countless nights day dreaming of this bike. Heck, I went and tattood this bike on me with the options I wanted a couple months before I even went down to buy it...and bought exactly what I wanted. I make payments sure but I aint doing without something else. I have a good job as does my wife. I don't have much debt, my bike and my mortgage...frankly, I have plenty left for other toys if I chose to. I don't have a single regret about buying my bike. My agenda is to take the best care of my bike as I can, catch any and all issues early and resolve them. I'm not a Victory pro so I ask questions that may seem nit picky on here because this forum has the Victory pros as members. You guys are the ones I look to and I do appreciate all comments and advice. I'll listen and make a decision. I want 200k on this bike (not anytime soon of course). Oil analysis will help and to think or suggest they wouldn't is nuts. If there is abnormal wear, the analysis will show what it is. Not all oils are created equal, some last longer than others. IF the results show that my Vic oil has broke down and if I retest with another brand at the same mileage and results show I still have a few thousand miles left, then the proof is in the pudding right? And that is my plan. If my oil is breaking down before recommended time (and you know they play it safe) then I'm in search for the best. Don't we all want the best for our bikes?
 

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I don't mind being wrong in this case. ;)

You have it right. I have learned from some of the guys who have been riding Vic's for a long time that the recommended oil change interval is just that; recommended. Many say that the feel of the clutch will tell them when to change the oil and not the odometer; which on the older bikes was every 2500 miles.

On my 11 XC, which obviously has almost the same motor as your 12, lets me know to change the oil sometime after 4k miles with the oil's I have been trying out. I have been hearing some very good things over the years about Amsoil and may just go to it. After all; the bike(s) are worth it and I too would like get 200k miles out of them. The guy who got 200k out of his Kingpin used Amsoil exclusively if I remember right.

Yes. You are right to be concerned. We do hear from a lot of folks who are just looking to be reassured about a particular noise or something that is different about the Vic's compared to whatever they had before.

Did you post a picture of your tattoo already? I think I remember seeing one of a KP on someone...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I don't mind being wrong in this case. ;)

You have it right. I have learned from some of the guys who have been riding Vic's for a long time that the recommended oil change interval is just that; recommended. Many say that the feel of the clutch will tell them when to change the oil and not the odometer; which on the older bikes was every 2500 miles.

On my 11 XC, which obviously has almost the same motor as your 12, lets me know to change the oil sometime after 4k miles with the oil's I have been trying out. I have been hearing some very good things over the years about Amsoil and may just go to it. After all; the bike(s) are worth it and I too would like get 200k miles out of them. The guy who got 200k out of his Kingpin used Amsoil exclusively if I remember right.

Yes. You are right to be concerned. We do hear from a lot of folks who are just looking to be reassured about a particular noise or something that is different about the Vic's compared to whatever they had before.

Did you post a picture of your tattoo already? I think I remember seeing one of a KP on someone...
Yeah, the Victory with 200k which got donated to the museum ran Amsoil. I did post a picture of the tattoo a while back. In my last post I said I had it inked a couple months before I bought the bike. My memory aint that good I reckon, it was a month before I went in to the dealer according to my original posts.

http://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=13295
 

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You know, this is like "fill in the blanks". Go to anyplace online or real world where there are two or more riders and the blanks where we are filling in "Victory", "Amsoil", "5000", "500" could be any bike, any oil, any duration between changes and any break in.
So, my spin, purely anecdotal and gleaned out of a bunch of builds, only a couple of which lunched in the first couple thousand due to my uncontrollable urge to test limits.
If the kids are grown and done mooching off your bank account and you just can't come up with any more good ideas to make your money work for you, purple colored oil is a fine way to get separated from your ducats in a street machine. Bragging rights but not much else. I used to focus on the guy talking up Royal Purple at swap meets. He was the one that I didn't have to dicker with, whatever I asked he was happy to pay and we both walked away smiling- win win.
Syns in general- same league as Purp but the same money gets a whole lot more on the shelf.
Dino- there are motorcycles and other machines that have plied the roads of this old world for a hundred years running on straight 30. No syn, no detergent, no adders, just earl. My biggest kicks of the year are Davenport and Eustis and I get wood from seeing those old marques getting their due.
There are a bunch of reasons that 100 year old rust buckets light up on the first kick, but fairly common among them is the owners have some aptitude and a sympathetic ear to the needs of the machine, and the fact is you pour oil into them and it runs through and out, not immediately but ultimately.
Machines of a newer vintage are different in fundamental ways.Here's a few.
Heat- big displacement, high rev engines are little furnaces.
Containment- Nobody today will put up with a total loss oil system. Two big issues result from that. One is retention of particulates and the other is continual degradation of the oil through circulation. Oil has to retain viscosity in some punishing environment in order to lube and cool and filtration has to arrest particulate migration during circulation.
Metallurgy- Cast iron and steel have a higher degree of forgiveness compared to non ferrous alloys. Back in the day aluminum (a magical element) got used strictly to save weight and was for the most part was applied where heat and movement were least present.
Point is we have to expect more from oil today than great grandpa did.
That said, so does mom when she gets in the minivan and takes the kids to soccer or band camp. An auto engine is subject to the same SOTA issues that a motorcycle engine is, often to a greater degree. More cylinders is more. You can channel water through a car engine to alleviate some stuff but it doesn't take away rpms or composite exposure and at the end of the dayy the family truckster is expected to behave civilly and not detonate either internally or externally.
It does that on dino oil just fine. Gazillions of miles on internal combustion engines has demonstrated unequivocally that dino is perfectly serviceable stuff. You can dump syns in and feel better about that (I do) but I swear that Prell gets my hair cleaner than my wifes fancy shampoos. Thing is I don't have enough hair to be able to make that judgement.
Oil analysis is a good thing. It's a reality check. I won't lay money on the results because if I describe what I am confident the results will be as the results so often are, then that feisty Amsoil salesman will turn up in this thread and get all up in his defense of the supremacy of his product. If you are out there Amsoil guy, I agree that it's good product. It is a good product among many good products.
Get the analysis because it's short money and the results are surprising the first time you see them.
Change your oil regularly. I change mine more than the manufacturer requires because I like to. I tell myself that every couple grand it's good to dump the metal out of the pan.
Get a magnet. Magnetic plug, magnetic wrap around for the oil filter, whatever. It won't catch everything but it catches stuff. That's good.
Use whatever oil floats your boat. Try and be reasonable though. Use stuff that doesn't give Vic wiggle room to get out of warranty. If dumping Royal Purple down the spout gets you peace of mind then it's money well spent. I spent half my life nursing bikes along that had some issue that was bothering me. Forget that news. Riding is about not worrying. If the high priced spread takes away worry then have at it Shriner. Likewise if you are good with dino, dump it in and spend the savings on a lobster. Just meet or do better than the manufacturers oil change intervals and specification.
 

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Why not get your oil analyzed that way you have first hand information.

Ask if your changing to soon and what metals there finding.

Keep in mind if you have metal on metal your going to get wear even if the parts are flooded with oil.

Even cut apart your oil filter and spread the paper out and with a flash light look for metal
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Why not get your oil analyzed that way you have first hand information.

Ask if your changing to soon and what metals there finding.

Keep in mind if you have metal on metal your going to get wear even if the parts are flooded with oil.

Even cut apart your oil filter and spread the paper out and with a flash light look for metal
Thanks Johnny, cutting the filter sounds like a good idea just so I know whats in there. I ordered an oil analysis kit yesterday and it will come with the TBN analysis as well so not only will I know what type of wear I have vs normal wear but I'll have the properties and additives on the oil looked at telling me where I should be changing this oil based on my riding habbits.
 
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