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So I went ahead and "ported" out my stock exhaust this weekend. This came from a post by BBob on thread;

http://http://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=4440

I wanted to share with everyone what my experience was and the result.

You will need a 1-1/8th" hole saw, the Arbor to hold the blade, and 2 of the 10" hole saw extensions. I did not have these so I went to Lowes as BBob recommended and picked it all up for just over $30. The brand name of the tools is Lenox. There was a small snag with using the tools. The Arbor that holds the blade is a "Quick Release" and has a collar that is spring loaded. That collar is probably 1-1/4" diameter (Slightly larger than the hole saw). As you insert the tool into the tail pipe it appears that everything will fit just fine. Getting it pushed in all the way I noticed that it stopped prior to where I though it should. Upon further inspection (I'll save you how long this took) I found that there is a slightly smaller pipe about 13" up the exhaust that the collar of the arbor bit was catching on. Identifying that this was my obstacle I took the bit over to the table grinder and took off just the outer edge of the collar. Basically there were diamond cuts into the collar to provide grip...now those are gone. Once this was done the bit set up worked flawlessly.

I took a short video with my cell phone of the before and after of the exhaust sounds. You will not notice much difference due to the quality of the video but there is a definite change in the exhaust note. As it was said before this is not obnoxious by any means just a deeper rumble. My GF was in the house and came out because she could tell the difference but knew that it was not the warrior.

Here is the before;


And here is the after;

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea The guy at Lowes was telling me that the selection was limited because they are changing to a new distributor.
 

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So I went ahead and "ported" out my stock exhaust this weekend.
Thank you for thinking of us and recording those videos. Well done. thumb up
 

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Cowabunga! Those videos, combined with your great description of the operation, convinced me that is a must do. I am lead to believe that the 2010s exhaust is quieter than your 2011, so I will really benefit from doing that "porting" job. And thanks for that pic of the different extension rod, visionjohnny - that's more like it. In fact, that gives me an idea. I have a 3' length of 1/4 steel rod, so all I have to buy is a coupler with two set screws to join the rod to the saw. That should save a buck or two for a few drops of gas. :ltr: I will grind a small flat in both so the set screws will get a better bite. cheers
 

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It sounds much better and it will be my next project!!

Question though; in the 2nd video when you reved the engine I heard a slight metallic ringing. I'm not sure if it's just my speakers (or old age) but I listened to it a couple of times and heard the same thing each time. When you pulled the holesaw out did it come out with little metal discs inside it? To me it sounds like one of those could be rattling or it could be frag from drilling -- your bike is in the same location for both videos so it doesn't appear you took it for a ride to blow it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
HAHA! Very good ears. I was unable to retrieve the "plugs" from the pipe and when I started the bike I heard the same thing. You are right the bike and camera were not moved between the videos being taken. I thought about trying to get it out and figured it would probably get lodged somewhere once I went for a ride. Well I can no longer hear it, so no problem right?:eek:
 

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I'm glad you didn't do what I did and lose the hole saw bit inside the muffler. It'll stay there till the end of time unless I do one of those mods where they replace the baffles.

I'm also glad you had a video camera to do the before and after sounds but it really wakes up under a load with a hand full of throttle. :D You would probably need to take your lady with you on a ride and let her film it from the back seat while you took off from a stop and went through the gears.
 

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I'm glad you didn't do what I did and lose the hole saw bit inside the muffler. It'll stay there till the end of time unless I do one of those mods where they replace the baffles.
Harbor Freight and/or hardware stores have very powerful magnets on long, telescoping handles. Unless the saw is hopelessly wedged, it should pull out with one of those magnets. You could shield it with a plastic or cardboard tube so the magnet won't stick to the exhaust pipe walls.

If that baffle that was cut is made of steel, the same helpful (?) hint applies.

I just bought my hole saw and the instructions say to use cutting oil - that should help make a clean cut, allowing the piece once I'm thru the baffle to be held by the saw a lot easier. thumb up
 

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Harbor Freight and/or hardware stores have very powerful magnets on long, telescoping handles. Unless the saw is hopelessly wedged, it should pull out with one of those magnets. You could shield it with a plastic or cardboard tube so the magnet won't stick to the exhaust pipe walls.
I had one and tried to use it while the hole saw was just sitting inside the muffler but I couldn't get a good enough hold on it with the magnet to pull it out. No biggie as long as it stays lodged somewhere in there and doesn't start rattling. If that happens I'll need to pull the pipe and use your trick with the shield so the magnet doesn't want to pull to the side of the pipe. thumb up
 

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I'll need to pull the pipe and use your trick with the shield so the magnet doesn't want to pull to the side of the pipe. thumb up
Chemo kept me awake last night and while laying there many thoughts ran through my head about bike projects. About retrieving pieces left: use a piece of PVC plastic pipe long enough to reach from the tip to the obstruction and slide the magnet thru that, so it won't stick to the exhaust tube. Another thought: One those long, grabby things with a T handle at one end and 3 or 4 claws at the other. Those grab things pretty tight. If just the disc is left, the engine may have to be running to get the disc floating in order to grab it.

I plan to magnetize the saw and bit and run the bit as far out from the saw as possible. Wish me luck. :crzy:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
use a piece of PVC plastic pipe long enough to reach from the tip to the obstruction and slide the magnet thru that, so it won't stick to the exhaust tube. Another thought: One those long, grabby things with a T handle at one end and 3 or 4 claws at the other. Those grab things pretty tight. If just the disc is left, the engine may have to be running to get the disc floating in order to grab it.

I plan to magnetize the saw and bit and run the bit as far out from the saw as possible. Wish me luck. :crzy:
I thought about the PVC pipe trick but I didn't have any on hand so that would have required another drive to the store. Since when I ride I don't hear it, it can stay in there until....well forever.

What I do hear is an exhaust that reminds me of an old custom hot rod with long straight pipes. Kind of the same sound. I will see if I can get the GF to record as we are riding.
 

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so no poping or anything? I was under the impression that this would cause some kind of back pressure issue and require a re-map of the engine? Am I wrong?
 

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so no poping or anything? I was under the impression that this would cause some kind of back pressure issue and require a re-map of the engine? Am I wrong?
There's some popping but nothing of any consequence in my opinion. Would a fuel controller be a good add-on? Sure. I plan on getting a PC-V sometime in the future but I'm not worried about any damage being done to motor without one. In the end it's your call though.
 

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There's some popping but nothing of any consequence in my opinion. Would a fuel controller be a good add-on? Sure. I plan on getting a PC-V sometime in the future but I'm not worried about any damage being done to motor without one. In the end it's your call though.
Would this popping you're discussing happen under normal (judicious) riding conditions, or when one gets a little wild with the right hand?
 

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FYI: Stock Pipe Pops Too

For what it's worth, I've heard a very docile pop on my XR also, even though I have not yet touched the pipes - they're bone stock.

All I have is the air filter seal removed, and O² sensors unplugged. It's a very quiet pop, and I hear it when coming off the throttle, going from acceleration to deceleration. It's a short pop, and barelly audible. When I wear 3/4 helmet, I do not hear it. When I wear 1/2 helmet, and it's quiet around me (no trucks, loud cars, etc) I can barely hear it.

If your hearing is not 100% or you're not paying attention, you won't know it's there. Then you drill the pipe, and you start paying attention, and you notice it. This could be the case here.
 

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Thanks guys, just wanted to know before I do the drilling. If you couldn't tell by now, I'm on the conservartive side of the MC world. Not big on making waves. Except to ride a Victory XR, that is.
 
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