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Discussion Starter #1
Well I got my 2 inch + inch handlebars (powder coated black) a few minutes ago. Already have the bike fairly taken apart. So Now (weather permitting) I can get it back together. All the stuff I have ordered is here.
Handle bars from Santa Rosa, IPod/connection cable and extension, speakers. This will have to do it until after Christmas.
I seen a blacked out XC that looked great. So I am thinking about doing a Blue/black XC. I have found a powder coater that does custom coating. Heat shields and the chrome engine covers.

Merry Christmas

dd
 

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DD, I have the same bars ordered, how much of a hassle is it to change them? I was thinking of letting the dealer do it, but would rather do it muself if not too complex.

The black out idea sounds great!

Please post results as soon as you get them on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just got them today and had to teach at church so it will be tomorrow.
I read the service manual on how to change them. It will just be time consuming. Removal if the inner fairing will not be that hard, just 4 bolts and disconnecting a few wire plugs.
If you do decide to do it yourself get everything ready to come off the bars (clutch side grip, and hand controls) before trying to removing the bars.
I will be doing everything at once, handlebars and IPod. So I will be removing the tank.
If you do not have a manual get it here for download
http://redbookhouse.com/manuals/Victory Cross Roads and Cross Country/
 

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Thanks DD. Please let us know if it takes any special tools, or is particularly challenging. Also, as I understand it, all the stock cables etc are supposed to fit with undo stretching. Hopefully that ends up being the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have gotten started on replacing the bars. I decided I would take photos as I go. Maybe it will help someone later.

dd
 

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I have gotten started on replacing the bars. I decided I would take photos as I go. Maybe it will help someone later.

dd
I know I am being silly but cover your gas tank really good use a heavy blanket. Go slow and be careful.
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I have gotten started on replacing the bars. I decided I would take photos as I go. Maybe it will help someone later.

dd
Great idea! I would like to change mine myself. I presume you have to take the fairing completely off?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
First off the outer fairing has to be removed but the inner fairing only has to be take lose from the mount so it will move forward to clear the handle bar mounts. You may need to play with it some if you are using lower wind deflectors. The get in the way some. I was able to move it around enough for the inner to clear.

This how I save time, I do not remove anything until it is time and do not take anything apart that doesn't need to. In this photo you can see how I slid the mirror mount out of the way to work. If you are going to use the black powder coated bars take extra caution, you can scratch the bars easily.


When you start to remove the clutch side grip I use a small allen wrench that is round on the end so I will not puncture the grip. I then spray with WD40 thoroughly working the allen farther in as to get the WD40 around every part of the grip then work it until it turns lose.
This photo is the throttle side but you can see how to remove the weighted end by using wood as not to damage the chrome. Give good licks with the hammer them suckers are in there good.


In the lower part of the photo you will see 2 bolts on the fairing mount. There are 4, 2 at the bottom and 2 upward which are hid by the wiring but easily seen. Remove all 4. There are rubber washers with spacers that may come out at the same time if they do set them aside with the bolts, you do not want to lose these guys.



IN this photo you can see the handle bar mounts are exposed. You can put slight pressure on the windscreen (cover it for protection) and you can get to the allen screws on top and the bottom are easy to get to. These suckers are tight so make sure you have the allen all the way in before trying to loosen them.



In this photo you how you need to turn the bars backward to slid the clutch lever mount complete and the throttle housing complete. Normally it is not necessary to flip the bars but due to the length it is. When you flip the bars flip them upward mounting surface, upward.



This last photo is what the black powder coated bars looks like.


If you will be using the black powder coated bars it may be necessary to sand off the coating where the throttle will be. Mine was sticking so I had to remove some of the coating to free it up.

I had to cut the throttle cables ties to get enough slack for them not to be too tight. I had to stop before getting completely finished.
It isn't hard just time consuming.
Momma said to come in so I came in. Ya here me

Hope this helps someone down the road.
 

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DD, VERY helpful, thanks.

One question, when you say you cut the throttle cable, what does this mean? Do these bikes have the "throttle by wire" set up? Not sure I understand it, but the newer Harleys have it.

I see you have a WIng? I have one with a Hannigan sidecar....great machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had to cut the throttle cables ties to get enough slack for them not to be too tight.
Just under the frame there is a plastic wire tie. I had to cut it so the cable could be moved.
When I posted it see what I had wrote and changed it.

dd
 

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Just under the frame there is a plastic wire tie. I had to cut it so the cable could be moved.
When I posted it see what I had wrote and changed it.

dd
Boy, what a difference a word makes:D

Thanks again, I hope to get my handlebars next week... I got chrome since I already have a blacked out Dyna.
 

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I received my pullback bars this morning from SRVT, and it took me about 4 hours for the install from start to finish...

I did discover that the front brake line pulled too much, so I loosened the banjo fitting on the master cylinder and moved it just a hair so the line no longer had a hard bend at the end of it. This gave me a good 1/2" extra to work with. I didn't find the clutch cable to be nearly as difficult to work with, once I moved some of the other cabling that was blocking it's direct path where it enters the fairing and wraps around the frame neck.

-Tim
 

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Many thanks dd for taking the pics and walking us through this procedure. How long is it taking for the SRVT +2" bars to get shipped these days? I like the apes HMD has but after my 100 mile ride yesterday I realized I really just need them to be a couple inches closer.

I'm doing almost the same thing dd. Ipod cables, handlebars, installing a garage door button, clock and thermostat (white faced) on the upper fairing under the windshield, and Kicker speakers.

I'm also doing some product testing for Brukus Security mounts for the saddlebags. I have never trusted the HD/Vic type twist pin's. Too easy to steal and occasionally the bags just fall off. Probably from not inserting them correctly when in a hurry and something in the bag unscrews them. I'll keep you posted on when they will be available for the XC/XR's. Inexpensive insurance for peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got my bars in 5 working days.
There are several ways of adding security for you bags. Some use bolts with locking nuts on the inside of the bag itself. Some use a bolt and drill the end of the bolt to use a slip pin type lock in the bag. Like you use on lawn more trailers but smaller. Use pins that fit the rubber cushions and drill a hole and use a fastener of your choice. I will tell ya this small locks work good but can be aggravating. These are the easiest to do and low cost.

Make sure the bag remains rubber mounting to help eliminate cracks.

post up some photos when ya are finished.
I am experiencing a delay due to the weather. We got 6" of snow. this is our first white Christmas since 1962

dd
 

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Many thanks dd for taking the pics and walking us through this procedure. How long is it taking for the SRVT +2" bars to get shipped these days? I like the apes HMD has but after my 100 mile ride yesterday I realized I really just need them to be a couple inches closer.

I'm doing almost the same thing dd. Ipod cables, handlebars, installing a garage door button, clock and thermostat (white faced) on the upper fairing under the windshield, and Kicker speakers.

I'm also doing some product testing for Brukus Security mounts for the saddlebags. I have never trusted the HD/Vic type twist pin's. Too easy to steal and occasionally the bags just fall off. Probably from not inserting them correctly when in a hurry and something in the bag unscrews them. I'll keep you posted on when they will be available for the XC/XR's. Inexpensive insurance for peace of mind.
Say if there doing to charge for the saddle bag mounts write and tell you how to get them for about two bucks from the hardware store.
 

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Say if there doing to charge for the saddle bag mounts write and tell you how to get them for about two bucks from the hardware store.
True. It's also true anyone can buy a Brukus set and have the keyed wrench to remove the bags. I figure if someone is that into stealing your bags; they're gone. Like most security devices; these just help keep the average scumbag from ripping you off. With the stock pins; you can reach around to the back with a nickel or quarter and spin the pin off the keeper. Once they get the back one off they have room to reach the front one. They can worry about opening the bag at their leisure back at their lair.

Still, these kits don't cost much and to be straight up honest about it, one per bag is all someone really needs. Two per bag doesn't prevent the bag from falling off or getting ripped off anymore than one per bag. As part of the product testing for the XC/XR bikes; I'll be telling Brukus that. I find the front pin to be hard to get to anyway so just using one of these or the $2 bolt and keeper on the back is plenty good. I like their idea's and what they are trying to do so I support them.

Another little trick I like to use is the Bagger Pouch. If you click here and scroll down about halfway you can see them installed in an HD bag. Today I drilled a couple of holes in the inside wall of the XC bags and used some short bolts with nylock nuts to keep the little stuff organized. Good place for insurance and registration too. For around $30 a set; they're pretty good IMHO. I found the back of the bag to match up best.


 

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As for the bag. I went to my local Walmart and bought the pencil bags, $1.00 each (they have zippers to close them) that kids use in their 3-ring binders. Got the stick on velcro and placed them in the saddlebag anywhere you choose. Cheap solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I like the apes HMD has but after my 100 mile ride yesterday I realized I really just need them to be a couple inches closer.
You are going to be surprised how far up you can put the bars. With the xtra 2 inches they will go upward a lot.

I will check out the pencil bag. Sounds like a good solution. Getting my wife to sew something for me will take a lot of talking. :confused:

I prefer having saddle bag lid organizers, they are easy to get to when the bags are loaded and take up very little room.
 

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I had thought about the Victory lid liners they have, but at $50, I thought they were a little pricey. Plus I believe they go on with a sticky or velcro. I figured with myself being in FL and the heat, they may come loose from the lid anyway. So I just placed these pencil bags on the inside of the bag. I did the same with a cellphone holder & my garage door opener. All are handy to get to.
 
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