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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 Jack Pot with a little over 19000 miles and was wondering if you can adjust the friction zone of the clutch, as mine engages when the clutch lever is almost all the way out.
Thanks and ride safe...
 

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when the bike is cold is the only time you can adjust the clutch. So in the morning squeeze the clutch a few times.
Now holing on the bar with one hand take the other hand and pull on the cable where it goes into the clutch housing. The cable will come out now look at the silver end. There should be a 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the should of the cable and the housing. If you have more the what I said you need to adjust.
Down on the far end is the adjuster loosen locking nut now squeeze the lever a few times. That sets the little balls in place. Adjust to the setting I told you. Now you should be good.
Once you start the bike you can "not" adjust till next day.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so should it come out of housing 1/16 to 1/8th or just move that much,

Thanks,
 

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so should it come out of housing 1/16 to 1/8th or just move that much,

Thanks,
Yes, it just puts slop in the cable. The friction zone is not alterable with a taut cable. At least if it can be, I haven't figured it out.
 

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do victory's not have an adjustment on the clutch pack completely seperate of the cable?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Again should it come out of housing or just move that much? Please I need to make sure I do it right.
Thanks


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Yes the silver end should have a gap of 1/16 to a 1/8
Les means you have drag on the clutch
More means the clutch lever has to much and will drag and make it hard to shift

So how much did yours have
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had less than a 1/16. When I go to less than 1/8 the bike has a little pull when I give it gas is that normal.
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You just need to introduce a bit more freeplay into the clutch lever. This brings the friction zone closer to the grip. I had to do the same because I have small hands. If, after the clutch is warmed up, the bike drags a bit when the lever is squeezed or shifting is difficult, there is too much play and you need to take some out because the clutch is not releasing all the way.

Most wet clutches will drag when they (and the oil) are cold, that's why you should adjust when hot. Shouldn't matter what the clutch does when cold.

Also, as I understand it, when the friction plates wear, the friction zone moves away from the grip as it takes less lever travel to disengage the clutch (friction plates are thinner). Eventually the lever travel gets very short and the clutch starts slipping under power because the friction material is gone. At 19000 miles, you may be in need of a new clutch pack.
 

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A man can get used to anything, except a rock in his shoe. Where the friction zone is on the lever is something you get used to in 20 minutes.
I disagree. If one has stubby digits, a friction zone at the end of the lever travel is a PITA to modulate.

I know this from observing of others. My fingers, feet, and other appendages are very long...very very long, I swear!
 

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I had less than a 1/16. When I go to less than 1/8 the bike has a little pull when I give it gas is that normal.
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Do a search here for a manual and then do as it says.
Adjusting your clutch when hot is BS
 

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Not to hijack, but speaking of the friction zone...

My daily ride to/from work takes me in and out of a military installation where during high traffic times, lines to the gates are long and going is slow.

During my recent "ride like a pro" course we did some slow maneuvering drills where I learned to ride in the friction zone...on rear brake, on throttle and riding the clutch to keep moving in slow traffic rather than stop and go with feet on and off of boards.

Is riding the clutch like this going to damage anything? I'm getting pretty damn good at it. :)
 

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If that's the case I'd start looking for some different levers... because there will be issues with the front brake as well.
The front brake lever is adjustable. Just one more thing that Victory was smart to copy the Japanese on rather than Harley. As things are going, I expect that next year, they will probably revert back to Harley levers and screw off gas caps...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have looked in owners manual and repair manual I cant find where it says the motor should be cold to adjust the clutch. I have been doing it cold though.
 

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Not to hijack, but speaking of the friction zone...

My daily ride to/from work takes me in and out of a military installation where during high traffic times, lines to the gates are long and going is slow.

During my recent "ride like a pro" course we did some slow maneuvering drills where I learned to ride in the friction zone...on rear brake, on throttle and riding the clutch to keep moving in slow traffic rather than stop and go with feet on and off of boards.

Is riding the clutch like this going to damage anything? I'm getting pretty damn good at it. :)
thats the way slow race pros do it, but yes it will wear your clutch out pretty quickly.
 

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Do a search here for a manual and then do as it says.
Adjusting your clutch when hot is BS
Care to elaborate?

It does no good for anyone to shoot down another's advice without some info or explanation.

Personally, I have adjusted my clutch when it is hot and cold and actually there really isn't much difference, if any at all. I just know that I want to adjust it hot so it doesn't change significantly between hot and cold. The clutch is hot when I'm riding and using it, what do I care what it does when it is cold? The manual doesn't say to adjust it hot or cold so I choose hot.

Sure, he could just do what the manual says and be good to go, however, that does not solve his problem of needing the friction zone closer to the grip.

Any suggestions on a solution?

There is plenty of travel in the lever to fully disengage the clutch and properly operate the clutch switch after increasing the free play a bit.

Another solution would be to try to bend the lever into a position that is closer to the grip. I have seen levers bent all the way around after a crash or a drop. (not me:D) I was actually amazed that they could bend that far without breaking. I don't recommend this course of action as if it did break you are back to square one and in need of a replacement lever. :(
 

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Clutch threads drive me crazy. There are two rules for adjusting clutches and they apply to all normal clutches without exception. They do not apply to farm equipment with 2 stage clutches. They have different rules.

1. There must be some free play at the lever or pedal. If there isn't you will burn the clutch out quickly.

2. There cannot be so much play that the plates drag when it is fully depressed. This will make it hard or in extreme cases impossible to shift.

Slow riding in the friction zone a la Ride Like a Pro is appropriate for wet clutches, most motorcycles. Just keep it reasonable. A couple of minutes at a time is enough. Riding the clutch with a dry clutch, cars and trucks, will cause the clutch to quickly fail.
 
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