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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thought I'd run this by everyone to gather feedback and also talk about my first dyno experience. I changed my plugs, changed the TB adapter, Cleaned the TB, Removed Stock air box and replaced with S&S, added the Power Commander 3 USB. This was several weeks ago, had the bike back together running a generic map until my dyno appointment. I ran with the new setup for 1.5 weeks, just around town, light throttle but just couldn't stay off the open road. The bike did perform better even at low speeds with the new TB Adapter, Cleaned TB and new Air intake.

I drove it about 1/2 hour to 45 min South of me to get the custom cylinder specific tune; they had it two days and when I picked it up they reported to me that they noticed some gas dripping from around the rail, and that I had leak in my intake somewhere... They gave it back to me but the bike stalls at idle, if I want to drive it I have to start it, and take off, and if I stop at a light it stalls and I have to repeat the start and take off to get going... this is in town.. part of the ride home was more in the country - long stretches of open road and it seemed to smooth out for me... after about 20 min of uninterrupted 50 to 60mph driving I had a few more stop lights before I was home... it didn't stall at that point.... and when I got it home, put it in neutral to get off the bike and open the garage door also didn't stall... I drove it into the garage and shut it off.

Went out there today and tried to start it... it starts up fairly normal but after about 10 to 15 sec, the check engine light comes on and it sputters then shuts off... Then I can then start it right back up and the same thing occurs. I called the dyno tuner back and he reiterated that I have a intake leak and small gas leak i his opinion... I told him I didn't have these problems before I took it to him.. He told me to fix the air and gas leak and bring it back and he will re tune if needed for no charge. I was not sure, since this dyno thing is new to me and Victory is new to me too, if I should push a bit more but I decided to "check my work" before pursuing too much with the tuner until then.

Today I pulled the tank, removed the S&S intake, unscrewed the TB and lifted it up... low and behold this is what I noticed on the brand new front chamber TB Adapter's O-Ring... it was either split or deteriorated... I have NO idea how that could have happened so quick.. since it's only been in the bike for a few weeks and the previous one I'd pulled out had O-rings intact and was '05 original form what I could see.

So today ordered new O Rings but I'm wondering if anyone can chime and and let me know if this can cause my engine to stall at idle? I have not idea how to reset the idle adjusting screw to make sure it's set back to normal but since the TB is open right now I can see the intakes and see them close all the way and then open slightly when I turn the idle screw.. just not sure how far to open them up - like 1 turn or something.. or should I close them all the way? Also Has anyone seen O Rings fails so quickly? Has anyone just used High Temp Silicone instead of O Rings... not that I'm planning on it but just wondering if anyone has.

Real bummed right now...

I'm posting my dyno graph, which isn't too bad - I wanted to get above 100HP and Torque but hovering just below. Any and all feedback/comments are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Since I did change the plugs prior to my dyno tune I thought I'd pull the new ones this evening and compare them side by side with the old ones I had in prior to getting the dyno tune - not sure if they're still in range of looking okay... or if they're leaning towards too rich?
 

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Silicone won't hold up to fuel and most of the gasket making sealants that do are non hardening. I wouldn't use any of them. May have been a cut in the oring and when you torqued it down(you did torque to specs right?) it split. Put in new ones, torque according to spec and sequence(if there is one) reinstall then enjoy. The oring shouldn't take much to seal just needs to compress. Double check both mating surfaces for any imperfections. Plugs are gonna look rough since you had a huge leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Shanko, thanks for the reply... I'm wondering now that you mention the torque of the TB screws... this is what I used from the service manual... let me know if you think this is correct.
 

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