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Getting prepped to replace the sidestand on my 2012 XCT (for reasons discussed in my post last month, http://www.victoryforums.com/34-victory-cross-country-cross-roads/168354-accident-today-car-vs-xct-tie.html ).

Per the shop manual (page 2.29), I removed the pivot-bolt nut on the underside of the bike, while holding the head of that bolt in place using a 6mm hex key. No problem there. The next step says simply:

Place the sidestand in the DOWN position, then remove the bolt.

I started to tap the bolt out, using a small punch and a mallet on the back, and it moved very easily for few mm ... only to discover that there's some kind of blockage, by some kind of line and connector. This is, of course, not discussed in the shop manual.

I can't be the first person to replace a sidestand on an XCT, so those of you who've done this, please let me know the easiest way of getting the bolt head to clear this line thingy.

Here's a pic to show what I'm talking about. The bolt in question is the one with the Allen key still in it.

 

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STOP STOP

if I'm not to late first thing to do is get a good 20 pennies. With kickstand down. Place pennies in each slot of spring. This is a must.
Then you have to move brake line out towards you a little to get bolt out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD-MZbV5kek
 

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Discussion Starter #3
STOP STOP

if I'm not to late first thing to do is get a good 20 pennies. With kickstand down. Place pennies in each slot of spring. This is a must.
Then you have to move brake line out towards you a little to get bolt out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD-MZbV5kek
VJ: Nope, you're not too late. I just took the nut off the bottom, that's all. (Too hot in the garage -- I was waiting for early tomorrow, when I have good light, and it's cooler.)

Thank you very much for that link! D'oh, I should've looked to see if Jon at Witchdoctor's had one of his how-to videos on this.

Thanks again. And kind of dumb that the shop manual doesn't say **** about the stuff that has to get moved out of the way.
 

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Witchdoctors is awesome ......
 

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I learned something today, thanks guys ...

Andre
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TaPaTaLk
 

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So what is involved in removing the part with the 2 allens the kickstand is bolted to. Without going out and looking, it appears it would be easier to remove that than the oil line and brake line.
 

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So what is involved in removing the part with the 2 allens the kickstand is bolted to. Without going out and looking, it appears it would be easier to remove that than the oil line and brake line.
watch witchdoctor video
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@visionjohnny: I certainly could be wrong here, but what I think @djh3 is asking is what about taking off the frame part of the bike, the part that the sidestand bolts on to (instead of taking off the floorboard, moving the oil line, etc.).

In the attached pic, I guess what he's asking about would be that large piece, over on the left side of the pic. (I haven't crawled on the ground much, to look that over, but will be crawling around today -- I have a roll of dimes all set to go.)
 

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wspollack: Yup you got it. The sort of rectangle piece. Even if you dont take it all the way off your just looking for a little wiggle room I think. Of course you could always get the BFH.
 

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Finished Sidestand Replacement Today

wspollack: Yup you got it. The sort of rectangle piece. Even if you dont take it all the way off your just looking for a little wiggle room I think. Of course you could always get the BFH.
Well, I did the whole thing according to the Witchdoctor's video @visionjohnny alerted me to last night (in post #2). So, nope, I didn't take the big piece off, or loosen it, although it might be a reasonable idea. I might consider it next time ... IF: 1) there is a next time, and; 2) I have a hefty table lift (as opposed to my wheel chock only), with the bike strapped down. As it was, crawling on the garage floor -- and at my collecting-social-security and wearing bi-focals age -- doesn't provide a real good view of what's connected to what.

I did use a BFH, if a deadblow hammer counts. I also used a BF pry bar, too (after trying out one of my nylon bodywork pry gizmos, but that didn't budge ****).

Did the whole bit: disconnected the shift linkage rod, took off the floorboard, put the dimes in the spring (borrowed part of my wife's stash), greased the pivot bolt and area, moved the oil line back where it was (with the pry bar) when I was finished.

And when buttoning things up, at the absolute very end of the project, I snapped off the very last bolt, the shift rod bolt. I was using a medium-sized torque wrench for the sidestand pivot bolt, and a small one for this bolt. And I stored them at no torque, and first went half-way on the torque value, to get them warmed up. On this one, the half-way just never clicked. I now have a new policy: torque wrenches on big bolts only -- the little ones get snugged up by a calibrated wrist only. Oh, and I lucked out, because a couple of threads were showing, so a vise-grip saved me from breaking out the extractor set.

Took the car to a nearby Lowes, and got a packet of two 6x1.00x20mm bolts. I got black ones, continuing my black-out-the-bike-when-possible theme (and also because that's all they had). I added a washer I had lying around, because the Allen head is much smaller than the stock bolt head. And used red loctite, as Jon suggested in the video.

Oh, and the new sidestand did the trick, nicely changed the lean angle to something more manageable. I measured the before and after angles, because I'm OCD in a lot of ways.

Also, my old sidestand had a hole where some shiny insert was present in the new one. And it's nice that the sidestands come with the rubber foot already on, because I also discovered that the old one was in kind of sad shape.
 

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