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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone had the Neutral light show up every time you pull in the clutch??? Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this?

So far I have tried checking connections all look good.
Clutch adjustment in a great spot and shifts smooth.

So as long as I hold in the clutch the neutral light stays on... Bike has been sitting for a couple weeks while I was on a trip for work came back to a bad starter solenoid which I knew was going out so replaced that and everything is good on that end just that darn neutral light.
 

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Has anyone had the Neutral light show up every time you pull in the clutch??? Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this?

So far I have tried checking connections all look good.
Clutch adjustment in a great spot and shifts smooth.

So as long as I hold in the clutch the neutral light stays on... Bike has been sitting for a couple weeks while I was on a trip for work came back to a bad starter solenoid which I knew was going out so replaced that and everything is good on that end just that darn neutral light.
Slightly off topic, but what were your clues that your starter solenoid was failing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Slightly off topic, but what were your clues that your starter solenoid was failing?
When I press the start button you can hear the COIL attempting to pull in and stay but it rattles. After checking the connections I deemed it was bad. Replaced it and now starts up fast just like new.
 

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When I press the start button you can hear the COIL attempting to pull in and stay but it rattles. After checking the connections I deemed it was bad. Replaced it and now starts up fast just like new.
Thanks.

I have noticed that occasionally I will push the starter button and get nothing. Push it again and it fires up. Been playing with it to see if it matters "how" I push it (pressure down, up, on tip, etc.) as I am assuming I have a switch that is not contacting all the time. Can't seem to get a consistent way that causes it not to connect.

Looked inside the housing and can't tell if I can replace JUST the switch or if I need to replace the whole housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks.

I have noticed that occasionally I will push the starter button and get nothing. Push it again and it fires up. Been playing with it to see if it matters "how" I push it (pressure down, up, on tip, etc.) as I am assuming I have a switch that is not contacting all the time. Can't seem to get a consistent way that causes it not to connect.

Looked inside the housing and can't tell if I can replace JUST the switch or if I need to replace the whole housing.
I would start with the solenoid its 14 bucks on amazon. Also what you are describing was an issues i was seeing as well. Your switch is probably fine. Also check the starter connections. I have found them loose before.
 

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Has anyone had the Neutral light show up every time you pull in the clutch??? Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this?

So far I have tried checking connections all look good.
Clutch adjustment in a great spot and shifts smooth.

So as long as I hold in the clutch the neutral light stays on... Bike has been sitting for a couple weeks while I was on a trip for work came back to a bad starter solenoid which I knew was going out so replaced that and everything is good on that end just that darn neutral light.
I would think that it could be a grounding issue.
It would seem they are unrelated systems so the one thing they would have in common is they both use a ground.

Does the neutral light work right in neutral?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would think that it could be a grounding issue.
It would seem they are unrelated systems so the one thing they would have in common is they both use a ground.

Does the neutral light work right in neutral?
Yes it works just fine in neutral. You might be on to something with grounding issues... It only happens to light when clutch is pulled in. I might start by disconnecting that switch at the clutch.
 

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Yes it works just fine in neutral. You might be on to something with grounding issues... It only happens to light when clutch is pulled in. I might start by disconnecting that switch at the clutch.
Here is another thought.
Make up a long jumper cable 5 ft long with a pair of alligator clips on it.
Try to get the ones that are able to open up quite far, something like this works really good.
But if those aren't handy anything will work. The wire can be almost anything 16 gauge is fine.

Pull your battery cover and hook right to the negative terminal of the battery and go to anything that you are in doubt is grounded.
Since the neutral indicator switch is on the engine go to a good clean bolt in the engine and see if your problem disappears.
Most aluminum is clear powder coated for corrosion protection so you will have to remove the powder coat to get a bare spot. Unlike a bolt that generally is plated and conducts electricity.

You can move it around to other places like the instrument display grounding terminal and see if that helps.
 

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Interesting. Electrical can be wonky like that. Sometimes all it takes it a unplug and re plug. Glad it's going again for ya!
 

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does it do it if your in gear and holding the clutch in , or just between shifts?
 

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Here is another thought.
Make up a long jumper cable 5 ft long with a pair of alligator clips on it.
Try to get the ones that are able to open up quite far, something like this works really good. http://www.amazon.com/Invincible-Marine-Copper-Alligator-Battery/dp/B007ZZFUDA?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B007ZZFUDA
But if those aren't handy anything will work. The wire can be almost anything 16 gauge is fine.

Pull your battery cover and hook right to the negative terminal of the battery and go to anything that you are in doubt is grounded.
Since the neutral indicator switch is on the engine go to a good clean bolt in the engine and see if your problem disappears.
Most aluminum is clear powder coated for corrosion protection so you will have to remove the powder coat to get a bare spot. Unlike a bolt that generally is plated and conducts electricity.

You can move it around to other places like the instrument display grounding terminal and see if that helps.
Good suggestion Joe. Shame the OP decided to just pop the wire rather than find the issue. Maybe when other ECU functions start going batty, he'll rediscover your post. ;)
 

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Good suggestion Joe. Shame the OP decided to just pop the wire rather than find the issue. Maybe when other ECU functions start going batty, he'll rediscover your post. ;)
Got to agree with you.
Ground issues generally get worse not better.
Catch them early, sort them out, spend less time on the side of the road:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay, So I unplugged and tested, works as normal. Plug switch back in and problem comes back. New switch in installed problem gone. So internally I am suspecting that the switch was grounding to the lever and that might of been making it do that. Weird but oh well.
 

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Okay, So I unplugged and tested, works as normal. Plug switch back in and problem comes back. New switch in installed problem gone. So internally I am suspecting that the switch was grounding to the lever and that might of been making it do that. Weird but oh well.
That is weird and It sounds right that something is amiss in that switch. That was completely not what I was expecting. I was expecting something else to have lost it's ground. Thanks for posting that.

Glad you got it working.
 

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I had an 2007 Hammer and when I bought it, it had that same neutral light issue. After extensive searching, Kevinx, somewhere posted that it is a bad diode in the autocancel module(ACM). I guess the ACM is actually a little fragile. There's no fix other than replace the ACM. Noemtz has it $269. http://www.noemtz.com/purevictoryparts.htm
I just dealt with it, I have a Cross Roads now, but I miss the Hammer.
 
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