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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i hit 2,xxx and changed to amsoil bought from our sponsor, a 50% mix 10-40 + 20-50 went for the first ride today and can say the vic much shifted better IMO. really do not know whats in their oil now, used to be group IV but not so sure looking at their MSDS, whatever is in it it works better than vic oil at NO xtra cost!!! i consider this a 15-45 "maybe" looking for a happy medium as pa does not usually get overly hot where a 20-50 is best IMO. most manufacturers recommend varying viscosities depending on climate, vics 20 as lo is not so good in colder weather + a 40 for very hot driving in traffic is not good enough IMO, but mine is parked below 50 usually! when your bike sets at 20-30 overnight and the afternoon hits 50 that 20 weight flows slowly into the needed areas of lubrication!!!
 

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I know this is crazy...and I don't EVEN want to get started in OIL WARS. But I started out using the VIC OIL when I first got my bike and used it for the the first two oil changes (that was two years ago)...then switched to Amsoil and have had my oil analyzed for the past 5 oil changes by Blackstone Labs. I was pretty happy with my Amsoil too...as was Blackstone Labs.

However several months ago...I noticed that on starting the bike...I noticed the NORMAL ticking/tapping sound seemed louder than normal. After about 30 seconds it would smooth out and go away...no big deal.

But last oil change, I decided to switch over to the OIL I used in my Venture and my VTX and bought some Rotella T6 (Blue Jug). There is a DISTINCT difference in the way my bike starts and runs. Little or NO tapping when the bike starts and although I can't really describe it in words...it "seems" to be a smoother acceleration. I'm not saying it's faster...just something is different and it is a positive effect. The one thing I can describe without doubt though is the START.

This is with MY BIKE...others may experience a different result.

So, I'm not slamming VIC OIL (it's good), I'm definitely not slamming AMSOIL (its great oil), I'm just relaying my experience with Rotella T6...and it's a positive experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
rotella is good

the rotella basic oil 15-40 works well in my kawiasaki KLX250S and is MA spec, never had any issues in my 06 sportster in 20,xxx used the 20-50. they may be using lesser base oils lately looking at the MSDS, doing lots of advertising $$$ as well, maybe getting like others using cheaper oils, time will tell!! redline though even more $$$ would be my move if needed, they seem more "honest" than most
 

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After reading through the oil posts here i started using rotella t-6 with rotella t. More t-6 then t, i think this change i have 1qt of t and the rest t-6. Temps have dropped down into the 30s here and it fires right up and no noticeable extra ticking.

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10/40 or 20/50 all cools about the sameweather its cold or hot out and I mean hot. The 10/40 is easer on your motor when starting. With the thin oil the piston gos up and down easer. They don't have to fight there way threw the 20.
90% of cylinder piston damage is when you start your motor and rev it up. The piston skirts will score the cylinder walls. So don't rev it up. Sitting on bike put your left hand on the rear cylinder and you can feel the cylinder warming up. When its warm to the touch go ride.

You start your bike and hear ticking its cause the oil has drained out of the lifters. They stop ticking is cause there full of oil. I don't care what oil you use the ticking will be there. Nothing to worry about and less you five miles from home and the ticking gets louder.
 

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I'm due for an oil change - 2013 XCT. So the Rotella T-6 works in the Victory engines and clutch? I may have to give it a try.
 

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My mama didn't raise no fool. Less than $20 a gallon for Rotella T6 and its doing a wonderful job in my XR. I get it when there's a rebate offer and sale going on consecutively.
 

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Im on my 3rd change with the t-6 and like it alot. After reading, I think it was vindex's test results, I have mixed in some t with the t-6, but this change since i knew I would be spending most of my time in the 30s for temps i have 4qts t-6 and topped it with t.

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Oil and Winter Q?

Might not be the appropriate thread but since it's active I thought I'd ask.. Oil brand or weight to the side...

I've heard/read you should do the oil change prior to garaging the bike in the winter if it's going to sit for a while. What's the consensus on that for these Vics? Logic being so not to store the engine sitting with the corrosives that build up in oil that's been in use for a while. Might be baloney.. Who knows besides the molecules at the edges of all the machine parts. :)

I will (I promise) do a search on "winterizing", etc etc any other keywords I think of on the topic.
 

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After 30K miles of using nothing but Vic oil, and having the usual shift problems (difficult to downshift and find neutral) with winter now upon us I decided to try the 10w40 amsoil. I had just turned 2500 miles on the vic oil and after putting in the amsoil it shifted very smooth. But that has always been the case when ever I changed the used oil with new vic oil. I now have 500 miles on the amsoil, and it is starting to have the usual shift notchy tendencies as the vic oil. I'll run with the amsoil and see if the shifting is better at 2500 miles than it has been with the Vic oil, if not i'll probably go back to Vic on the next change. With either oil it always shifts great with cold oil, but when it heats up the same shift demons return. :(
 

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Might not be the appropriate thread but since it's active I thought I'd ask.. Oil brand or weight to the side...

I've heard/read you should do the oil change prior to garaging the bike in the winter if it's going to sit for a while. What's the consensus on that for these Vic's? Logic being so not to store the engine sitting with the corrosives that build up in oil that's been in use for a while. Might be baloney.. Who knows besides the molecules at the edges of all the machine parts. :)

I will (I promise) do a search on "winterizing", etc etc any other keywords I think of on the topic.
yes every mile you ride your oil breaks down and with the break down comes acid. So it you store it with fresh oil you don't have acid eating away on the metal parts. Put in new oil ride 20 miles so every thing gets a fresh coating. Store bike with tires on wood blocks. Do not run motor during storage un-less your going for a hundred miles.
hook up tender and say good bye. Come riding season your ready to go.
 

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VJ, what do the wood blocks do. Makes it harder to move back and fourth every month to prevent flat spotting the tires.thumb upcheers
 

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Every bike that I have owned over the last 45 years and nearly 1000000 miles, I have put fuel conditioner in all fuel used in the winter, if the oil is within 50% of being due to change I'll change it if not I won't. I ride it anytime the roads are dry and it is in the 30* range. I'll ride it at least long enough to let it warm up 10 miles will do that. I have never had a problem on any bike yet from the 1966 Matchless 500 single to the current 2010 Victory I now own. I live in northern Utah so we do have snow and cold temperatures. Every bike I have owned until the Victory has been outside in a carport. Now I have a unheated garage and I always keep a battery tender on the bike. No problems on any. I buy them to ride them not look at them during the 4 month's of winter. :)
 

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Most definitely need to put a stabilizer in the fuel when storing any gas engine. Today's gas is a witches brew of horrible stuff, especially ethanol and a stabilizer keeps it from separating out and doing grave damage. Take the stabilizer with to the last fill up prior to hibernation and put it in then so that by the time you get home, its in the entire fuel system.
Not starting the engine except for a long ride is excellent advice VJ gave you. Firing it up and running a few minutes does great harm. Just don't do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
bonnie likes it too!

took my 2012 bonneville out today "for a change" hard to pass the hammer, anyway i used the same oil blend in this bike as the hammer, triumph OE oil was mobil 15-50 now its castrol 15-50 both "synthetic" they must have got a better deal $$$ from castrol. i figure my blend to be 15-45 it works for me. triumph is a smooth shifter for sure but even feels better with the amsoil blend IMO!!
 

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Most definitely need to put a stabilizer in the fuel when storing any gas engine. Today's gas is a witches brew of horrible stuff, especially ethanol and a stabilizer keeps it from separating out and doing grave damage. Take the stabilizer with to the last fill up prior to hibernation and put it in then so that by the time you get home, its in the entire fuel system.
Not starting the engine except for a long ride is excellent advice VJ gave you. Firing it up and running a few minutes does great harm. Just don't do it.
Actually RICZ, Stabil now makes a special stabilizer for alcohol enhanced fuel. It's kinda amber whereas the normal stuff was red.

Until last year I always used the red stuff with no problem, but just thought it might be something you'd wanna consider.
 

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Actually RICZ, Stabil now makes a special stabilizer for alcohol enhanced fuel. It's kinda amber whereas the normal stuff was red.

Until last year I always used the red stuff with no problem, but just thought it might be something you'd wanna consider.
haha "alcohol enhanced" now thats funny!

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Actually RICZ, Stabil now makes a special stabilizer for alcohol enhanced fuel. It's kinda amber whereas the normal stuff was red.

Until last year I always used the red stuff with no problem, but just thought it might be something you'd wanna consider.
Thanks for that, Saddle. There's another product that has tested out really well and I have been using that. Damned if I can remember the name...something tron. I'm down in Redding, CA now (suffering in the 78 degree heat) and can't get out to my garage to read the label. Shucks!
 

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