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Signed the papers today! ...But since its a blizzard right now and I'll be plowing for a while, she aint commin home today. I have learned a lot from the members on this site that helped me make a very educated decision on this bike. Thank you very much. Its gonna be a long few months waiting for spring to break around here so I can do some riding...

I am going to have a few mods done before I pick it up. Here are my questions..
-After tons of looking and listening, I think I have settled on the D&D Pipes, as I cant stand the stock sound...or lack there of. Like many, looking for a good rumble, somewhat loud on top, but not anoying while cruising for days. Sounds like the D&D fits that bill?

-I have also learned that though not nessasry, a hi-flo air filter is sure at the top of most lists? I was going to order the Lloyds Filter. Thats not the cheapest...but seems to be the best, correct?

-Finally, what I havn't really figured out is with the above 2 mods done to the bike, am I better off with a Stage 1 flash, a Lloyds VFC, or neither? I really dont see myself doing any major enigine mods in the future, but I would think to make the bike run perfectly, a new fuel controller would be nessasary? Obviously want to avoid popping/backfiring.

Sorry for the long post! I am slightly excited at the moment :D

Any tips or comments on any of the above would be greatly appreciated! I look forward to joining the Victory crowd, and hopefully I can add info to the forum in the future as well. And I promise to post pics when she comes home!
 

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Signed the papers today! ...But since its a blizzard right now and I'll be plowing for a while, she aint commin home today. I have learned a lot from the members on this site that helped me make a very educated decision on this bike. Thank you very much. Its gonna be a long few months waiting for spring to break around here so I can do some riding...
Congrats! Wishing you warm weather. cheers


-After tons of looking and listening, I think I have settled on the D&D Pipes, as I cant stand the stock sound...or lack there of. Like many, looking for a good rumble, somewhat loud on top, but not anoying while cruising for days. Sounds like the D&D fits that bill?
I personally am very happy with my set of D&D's and would chose them again without hesitation. Great sound, excellent fit and finish.

-I have also learned that though not nessasry, a hi-flo air filter is sure at the top of most lists? I was going to order the Lloyds Filter. Thats not the cheapest...but seems to be the best, correct?
Correct. thumb up

-Finally, what I havn't really figured out is with the above 2 mods done to the bike, am I better off with a Stage 1 flash, a Lloyds VFC, or neither? I really dont see myself doing any major enigine mods in the future, but I would think to make the bike run perfectly, a new fuel controller would be nessasary? Obviously want to avoid popping/backfiring.
Yes, you need the Lloydz VFCIII / DynoJet PCV / Cobra Fi2000 or a download. The stage 1 download will offer you the least flexibility, and it's almost not worth doing in case you ever do any other upgrades.

... I promise to post pics when she comes home!
Alright, you promised! wac
 

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For what your doing D&D and air filter I would get Lloydz Idle Air Valve and not the fuel controllers. Fuel controllers are more for cams then just mild up grade. I would not get the stage 1 flash either. If you un hook the 02 sensors you will put bike in rich mode and that is what the stage 1 does for you.
As long as your ordering from Lloydz get the 1/4 turn throttle you will not have to twist the throttle as far and its cheap.
As long as your ordering ask them what they think is best for you. Never hold information back when wanting to find out what is best for you
http://www.lloydz.com/store/item_view.asp?estore_itemid=1000078
 

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Seeing as your bike is sitting for a few months I can give you a tip on the start or not to start. I'm in the start camp.

Mine sat for 3 months before I could ride it.

First thing I did was mount a permanent charge plug to the battery and connected up a Ctek 7 stage battery charger. It can stay permanently connected. Battery taken care of for duration.

If you are in a high humidy area and the bike gets exposed to it in garage or where ever... try to seal the intake vent and cover the pipes with plastic bags and hold with rubber bands.

With the exhaust valves open you are exposing the cylinder to humidity (moisture) and it may spot corrode.

If the area where the bike is has very low humidity you'll be right.

I started my bike every 20 days for the 3 months. I didnt want it too get hot... I just ran it for a bit to move pistons and just pressurise oil system. I used a clock and ran it for 30 seconds on idle only. no more, no less.

You dont want to run the engine to long at idle because the rings are not yet seated and the bike needs to be ridden (loaded) to expose the rings to higher cylinder pressures to seat rings.

Longs periods of idle before the rings are seated may expose the bore to glazing which will allow the engine to consume oil with a less than perfect ring seal.

So 30 secs every 20 days... when ready to ride... run for one minute on idle... then, 2-3 mins at 1100-1200 til you feel warmth in the barrels. Ride off and gentle throttle for a few miles then run in as specified in manual or to your preferred method.

Place bags back on after the 30 sec, 20 days, runs....

I use the above method to warm bike before any ride... to much load too early on the motor can cause psiton/bore scuffing.

Mags
 

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Some bikes sit at the dealer for a year or more without being started for months at a time. My 2011 XR had 2 miles on it when I bought it so I am sure it went months without bein cranked.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tips guys! Appreciate it! cheers

After a great disscussion with Lloyds and hearing his reccomendations, I decided on the D&D's, a Lloyds Filter, and a VFCIII. He agreed this would be a great set-up, and reccomended the VFC over the PCV if I was not planning any more engine mods in the future...which I am not.

As far as storage... I have a good 5+months of winter up here, so she'll sit for a while... I have always treated the last tank of fuel with stabilizer and run it through the motor. Then I top it off again with treated fuel with no ethanol and shes good to go for the winter. I always fog the cylinders very heavey with fogging oil as well. I also always pull the battery and store it inside, hitting it with the battery tender every few weeks. Then a fresh oil change first thing in the spring.
 

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Personally I've been happy with the stage 1 if you want a nice deep sound without it driving you crazy on a long ride. The S1 was a little quiet at first like some have mentioned but after some miles it does break in and becomes about right. A high flow AF comes with it as well as a fuel map and after talking to a guy I know that up-graded to the Llyods AF and fuel controller from the S1 he said he couldn't tell the difference between the two. Maybe on a dyno you could but at what cost? My S1 runs great. No exhaust popping or any issues like that where he has a fuel controller and can never seem to get it set right for all conditions he sees. Sometimes simple is better. Especially if you like to just ride and not always have to be messing with things. I see on these forums where a lot of guys that add fuel controllers are always trying to find the elusive 'spot' that works for their set-up only to find it evading them once again. Victory has a new S1 set-up out for the '13 bikes also that could be a good option.
 

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Before Vic's were popular they would sit outside at the factory all covered up for over a year and no one ever started them.
All the bikes they make this winter sit with no one starting them.
Mine sites in the garage for five months with no start up and to day the garage temp is 22 above.
Never start bike unless your riding it you do more harm then good
 

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Opinions are like... well anyway I got one about the bike being down for months.
I believe that you can do more harm than good firing up a machine for short durations.
First thing, it's the moment of start that brings it the hardest. You have cold steel and aluminum getting an immediate thousand plus degrees of fire in the belly. That metal was fine contracted and static. Push the button and you are making demands. It's designed to respond to those demands, but why whip the mule in the barn?
Next thing, if you are going to run the engine then Pop suggests that you run it up to operating temperature. Running it briefly creates that special condition where parts of the motor are hot and parts are cold. Condensation loves that environment. You invite moisture to develop and moisture promotes oxidizing internally and it sets up shop in your oil reservoir. I say run it hot enough to boil off standing condensate.
All that said, hell's bells, whatever floats your boat. I don't know of anybody that blew up a stock mill by doing short winter startups. It's been decades since I saw a motor that wasn't babied during break in that actually suffered for it. But, I treat my motor the way that I want and if you treat yours different it's like that old saying about it's your shower, your soap and your John Thomas and you will wash it however you see fit.
 

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Do what you like boys its all good! Whack it outside in the high humidity for 5 months, or just leave it in back yard... she'll be right... just start and ride after that.

Of course a bike can sit for months if sealed....

Mags
 
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