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Pop, give the kid a break. He has a bike that has darned near no miles on it yet but has plenty of shop time. I am no kid at 66 years old but I think I would be at least as pissed in his position. He is missing work to get his bike right, which should never be needed. At such low mileage the bike should just work every time he gets on it, like mine does.
I reread Pops post , I think he actually was giving him a break ... In a Pop kind of way , you need to read between the lines...:D
 

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Some if us work like FF so we can retire young so we can slowdown and enjoy life. If all my planing goes right I will retire at 50 yrs old, hope this last 5 yrs go fast. As for the bike and dealer problems he has I would be flipping my lid.


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I work 12 hours a day all week long, havent had a single day off in months now. As I explained to the dealer, I simply dont have time to go on a ride with him, even if I did, its a waste of time. They can ride it themselves and find the problem, only issue there is they only ride it a mile up the road and back.
Damn where do you work that's, THAT busy !!??
 

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I know the pains of those work days, I'm 10x5 base days and most are 11-12 so I loose money out of the paycheck to see the dealer. I am able to get in on a Saturday but they don't have techs in every weekend and they are booked out months on Saturdays.

I do know the pain of persisting issues as well, my 3rd windscreen in a year just split out again at the same spot, I'm at almost a full day off work just running that back and forth to the dealer again. Doubt I'll be getting any love from them this time and KW says my problem.
 

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Sorry, there is so much here I didn't read every post but I had an intermittent problem on a car once that even the dealer was sick of dealing with. Same type of scenario in that the vehicle needed to be well warmed up and moving to encounter the problem. I left the vehicle with them for a week and the mechanic used it as his own. To and from work and for family stuff. If you have other transportation available it may be beneficial to let them have it and use one of their knowledgeable employees put the bike through some real use and hopefully encounter the problem.
 

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Wow, just wow. I'm not trying to start anything and I'm certainly not going to feed into this by responding back to anyone who takes issue with what I'm about to say.

The lack of maturity demonstrated by a few people here is sickening.
This man mistakenly calls RPM matching on downshift blipping and he's a crap rider. If you have never locked your rear tire up on a downshift you either ride like a grand grandma, have few miles under your belt or you rpm match. I haven't made read every post yet but I couldn't hold my tongue any longer. Please grow up people. If you don't have anything helpful to say please just stay out of it.

That being said here is my side of this.
I ride a 2012 Vegas 8 ball with xbow pipes and so far that's pretty much it for add ons. I had a similar issue but it was entirely do to blipping the the throttle. The pipe swap made such an improvement in the sound of my bike that the kid in me just couldn't resist revving the engine at times. I have stopes doing this and the issue has all but vanished. It still happens occasionally so I am going for a reflash soon. I'll let everyone know what effect this has on this issue.


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HC
Your bike is heavily modified, what fuel controller are you using?
Power Commander


I don't like fuel controllers that need a map. Is there one out there that would allow you to change the amount of fuel when twisting the throttle from idle. Like a accelerator pump on a old style carb. I really believe this stall is a poor air/fuel ratio when revving from idle.
The Power Commander has an 'accelerator pump' feature, but that is probably not your issue. Your issue is with the IAV and a lean mixture.

Unplugging the O2s does nothing for stalling on my bike. Did kill my mileage though.... So it seems its not changing (much) just off idle.
Look, you can go back and forth, change this, unplug that... but you are NOT tuning the bike. Buy something to tune it with... have it tuned by someone who knows what they're doing... BE HAPPY with your bike. Anything less is settling.

We Just had KMC up here. SO MANY people who were experiencing issues are riding happy now. There are several VFCs, Auto Tune modules, and a Cobra Powr-Pro for sale now too.

I rode Rob's bike with his newly discovered 119 HP... It doesn't hesitate, pop, fail to rev on a blip, or have ANY drivability issues. PC-V and a damned good dyno tune. Runs like a Swiss watch.

My own bike was dyno tuned (Kyle) coming up on two years ago. It still runs perfect and gets killer fuel mileage. The tune paid for itself in fuel savings alone.

If you don't like the way the bike runs, do something about it.
 

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Damn where do you work that's, THAT busy !!??
Where ever it is, it is nice to have the income from the job to pay the bills that show up every month.

My work day starts at 7am when the alarm go's off, out the door by 7:30am, arive at 1st job at 8:15am, clock in at 8:25am, work non stop till 2:30 pm, clock out and race to job #2, punch in at 3:30pm work till 7:30pm, take 1/2 break, back to work till midnight, punch out, race home to get to bed by 1am just to be woken up 6 hours later at 7am.

Hope to have the health to do this for the next 8 years as I plan on retireing at 57 and enjoy what left of my life instead of just being tired all the time.
The bright side of all this work is every other weekend its time for a few cold cheers cheers cheers

Nice thing about my 2013 BW, it is a great stress reliver and saves a bunch on the fule bill during the warm rideing season.
 

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This is not my post, I got this from another forum and the poster stated this is from Lloydz so maybe Lloydz just might know a little something about this subject. Here is the post from the other site:

"I don't remember the exact reasoning but I was talking to Lloyd about this and it had something to do with whatever monitors the air/fuel mixture couldn't keep up."

So there you have it, it may work for some and for others the system just is not capable of keeping up and it won't work.

Further also gained from that other forum was over 1800 RPM's no problems drop under 1800 RPM's and you will have problems.

This is just the way Victory's are. If I am correct the OP is having the stalling problem when he is blipping the throttle while slowing to come to a stop which would put in him in the area of the 1800 RPM range. I bet the one thing he has not tried is riding the bike without blipping the throttle when coming to a stop. Just maybe you do not really need to blip the throttle every single time you down shift.
 

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Well I disconnected the clutch switch .....
The damn bike stalled at a four way stop.
I didn't blip I was in first waiting for my turn. I went to bring the RPM up a bit before letting the clutch out and the bike stumbled and stalled. I hit the starter .... Nothing wtf .... Then I remembered I unplugged the switch .... Damn I had to put it in neutral to re start....

Nothing to do with clutch switch......
Disconnected o2 sensors ... No difference... Still stumbles and stalls.

The only thing that helps is to completely close the air flow to the IAC valve and then turning up the idle screw.
Draw back is no more fast idle warm up......

Also
The plugs show I am running rich.. Very rich.. Turning off my fuel controller was great for mileage but low end power fell sharply and worst of all was the stumbling and stalling got real bad.
So I would have to say when you give the bike a bit of throttle from idle, the computer is to slow to add fuel and the bike stumbles and some times stalls. Run it rich and it some times stumbles and my go for days with no stall.
 

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The screw you adjusted as your idle screw i dont believe is suppose to be messed with.

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The screw you adjusted as your idle screw i dont believe is suppose to be messed with.

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There is 3 screws
One is the idle
The other 2 are for balancing the cyl. Same as you would balance a carb bike.

If your IAC (idle air control) valve is working you will not be able to lower your rpm with the idle screw. The computer will just open the AIC valve and add air to increase the idle. That screw is to stop the air butterflies in the throttle body from closing completely and damaging the throttle body.....
But
Install Lloydz adjustable idle air control valve and shut off the flow of air to the bikes AIC so the bike runs richer at idle and you will have to adjust the idle screw just to get the bike to idle......

By not allowing the computer to add air at idle, my bike doesn't stumble or stall when raising the rpm from idle.

Now how do I get this info to someone at Victory that can make use of it to come up with a cure ??????????????????????
 

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The screw you adjusted as your idle screw i dont believe is suppose to be messed with.

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I just noticed your sig pic said you removed cats.....
Did you do that before or after the thrush mod....?

Did you get a cleaner Vtwin sound after removing the cats... I was thinking they must really kill the exhaust flow. The Vic's seem to have a strange exhaust note and I was thinking it's the cats ....

What is your opinion ?
 

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I did the thrush mod first and the cats later, i noticed almost no sound difference without the cats.

is there a way to check the sync on these, like a carb bike?

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I did the thrush mod first and the cats later, i noticed almost no sound difference without the cats.

is there a way to check the sync on these, like a carb bike?

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On my c90 I connected my mercury sync tool to the port for the map sensors.
I didn't look that close on the Vic. I was testing for the stall issue so I adjusted by ear. I wanted to adjust it more to the front then the back to see how it responded.
Then I just set it for the best idle.

But there must be a front and rear map sensor. That would be the place to T into..
 

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WOW, crazy read
Am I in the minority here??? Purchased my 3rd VICTORY,a couple of months ago and ONLY issue I have ever had was,clutch cable snapped on my 05 Vegas
Oil changes and tires are all that I have ever done
 

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And BOTH dealers within half an hour drive ,are GREAT!
 

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And BOTH dealers within half an hour drive ,are GREAT!
Wow 3 Vic's
I think you used all your luck. Don't bother buying lottery tickets.....lol

If you read the posts with an open mind you see the problem is more prevalent due to the amount of people that tow the line (don't blip a Vic). It's almost like a religious believe and so it's not questioned......
But in fact it's saying Vic's FI system is not as good as the other bikes so just don't do it....
Instead of finding the problem.....

And it don't have access to Lloydz here in Canada.....
 

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FF90 it seems everyone has an after market fix for you to hopefully resolve or manage the situation your in. I feel this is missing the point completely...the bike stalls on the road and sounds like at possible downshifts in traffic. I've had my Vegas8Ball since March this year and just had my 10,000 mile service - (the bike runs great) and I drive it like my last super-bike rev at downshifts standard practice at all type of road conditions with no issues. In fact it's very comfortable downshifting to manage breaking in traffic. Unless your problem with blipping the throttle is as if your sitting at the start line of a race rev'g up...I would go directly to Victory with the issues and not take no for answer! Unfortunately your dealer maybe a nice guy but he's full of B.S.! On the other hand your warranty should be good at other dealerships...if you get a hold of someone at Victory they should assign you a Rep. who could help you find another dealership to honor your warranty issues. Good Luck!



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Just have to say that even with this stalling issue Victory is still a damn sight better than Harley in so many ways. I had a plethora of problems with every Harley I've owned and none of the problems could be corrected by changing riding style.


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