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When you get back from that trip get the timing wheel and a new gasket for the cover. My wrist can turn further if I want more fuel but the only way to affect the timing at the low end is the wheel. Averages about 4 ft-lb and 4 HP at peak at the rear wheel. For a $162 total cost how could you go wrong?
For those who don't travel the beaten path, you could go wrong by being forced to buy 87 because there is nothing else available. And where I'm apt to ride, that's a regular occurrence.

My bike has knocked horrendously on 87 in the past. I was riding two up and at high rpms while making a pass on a two lane road. It wasn't particularly hot out. With that knowledge, I tend to ride much more conservatively when I'm force to buy regular. But as I said, that happens with some regularity. As close to the edge of knocking as it is out of the box, I'm not inclined to sacrifice its tourability for a little extra power. Especially given that I could easily get those power gains, by decreasing my beer and taco consumption...
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks for all the great advice and points. I guess as far as "performance" I'm just a little underwhelmed with it. Not that I don't like the bike, I love it! I guess I was expecting more pull from this big engine? I didn't think I would have to downshift or open the throttle up to go up hills riding solo.

My three past bikes Suzuki DL1000, Yamaha FJR1300 and Kawasaki 650 Versys all pulled stronger. The Versys was the only one that if I was riding 2up I would have to get on it a little going up a hill. The other two pulled right up the hills without moving the throttle at all. I know this is a totally different type of bike (and my first of this type) but I thought it would be a little stronger in that area.

Like I said, I love the bike and am in no way trying to downgrade it. Maybe I just need to get use to it these types of bike after coming off what I did. wac
 

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Discussion Starter #23
For those who don't travel the beaten path, you could go wrong by being forced to buy 87 because there is nothing else available. And where I'm apt to ride, that's a regular occurrence.

My bike has knocked horrendously on 87 in the past. I was riding two up and at high rpms while making a pass on a two lane road. It wasn't particularly hot out. With that knowledge, I tend to ride much more conservatively when I'm force to buy regular. But as I said, that happens with some regularity. As close to the edge of knocking as it is out of the box, I'm not inclined to sacrifice its tourability for a little extra power. Especially given that I could easily get those power gains, by decreasing my beer and taco consumption...
I've already been in that situation (yesterday) and had to get 87. Are you saying that with those performance upgrades 87 would be a really bad thing?
 

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I'm not sure. Guess I've read lots of posts about the O2s, timing, air filters etc and was curious about them.

I guess my goal would be better performance, better gas mileage? Not that it's bad, but better is always good as long as its not hurting the bike in any way.
So My response to this is:

Talk to Lloydz, KMC, or The Vic Shop. these guys are the ones that are building reliable machines. They know what works and what doesn't and more inportantly why.

I would suggest you put some miles on the bike and decide if you 1) Like the package you have, 2) if you don't what about it do you not like, 3)and then how much you are willing to spend.

Cycle back to my first paragraph and talk to the guys who make a living at this.

I had a build goal in mind and did the research (not looking for suggestions from a forum on how to spend you $$$) on what was available. Then discussed my options with the professionals.

I spent approximately $3500.00 bucks on my ride in an incremental fashion. I was looking for performance and drive ability, but not at the drag strip. Unlike many mine is a daily driver about ready to break 33,000 miles running stronger than the day it was new.

I am used to a level of performance and demand that from my machines. If you do not know what you do not know that what are you changing and why? My mods or for that matter anyone elses might not work for you.

Seen lots of modified vehicles out there, most do not work better than stock. Poor build strategy or incomplete builds. If you tweek the input you need to tweek the output and what is in between too.

The New bike run very lean, if you only run a 1-2000 mile a year why do you need to change anything.

If you are a very technical rider then you might want to look at a performance package fo rthe engine and then tires /brakes/

If you are just in it for the look then the mods go in a different direction.

The Point of this is What direction do you want to take? to me it sounds like you are following the pack for the sake for following the pack. Ride it for a while and make an assessment.
 

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For those who don't travel the beaten path, you could go wrong by being forced to buy 87 because there is nothing else available. And where I'm apt to ride, that's a regular occurrence.

My bike has knocked horrendously on 87 in the past. I was riding two up and at high rpms while making a pass on a two lane road. It wasn't particularly hot out. With that knowledge, I tend to ride much more conservatively when I'm force to buy regular. But as I said, that happens with some regularity. As close to the edge of knocking as it is out of the box, I'm not inclined to sacrifice its tourability for a little extra power. Especially given that I could easily get those power gains, by decreasing my beer and taco consumption...
It can happen, I've come across a couple little towns that I had a hard time finding 91. With the ATS alone, yeah, that would be a problem. With the list I gave (which is in my signature now thumb up ) You could adapt to that situation even with 87. Solution would be hit the little button on the gauge to richen the fuel mixture to stop the ping. You can put it right back once you get some 91 in it. It takes literally 5 seconds or so to make the adjustment. The beauty is you're not guessing, the gauge is right there telling you what your A/F ratio is. This thing really is so easy a caveman could do it!
 

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Thanks for all the great advice and points. I guess as far as "performance" I'm just a little underwhelmed with it.
I'm with you on this one. I didn't need to log hundreds or thousands of miles on it before I knew it just didn't have the power I wanted. It took just the short ride home from the dealer to realize I would be doing some performance mods. To be honest...I was a bit disappointed with the performance it had. I knew when I bought it that it wouldn't be as fast as my KP was but man...wasn't even close! It took me a month or so and a couple thousand miles to save up the $700 for the parts in my signature below. It has the power now and the reliability is there. If anything, it may last longer now that my engine isn't getting so hot being that my A/F ratio is where it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm with you on this one. I didn't need to log hundreds or thousands of miles on it before I knew it just didn't have the power I wanted. It took just the short ride home from the dealer to realize I would be doing some performance mods. To be honest...I was a bit disappointed with the performance it had. I knew when I bought it that it wouldn't be as fast as my KP was but man...wasn't even close! It took me a month or so and a couple thousand miles to save up the $700 for the parts in my signature below. It has the power now and the reliability is there. If anything, it may last longer now that my engine isn't getting so hot being that my A/F ratio is where it should be.
I'm saving my pennies. May do a front speaker upgrade first. Where do you find the Victory passenger drink holder? Could not find it in on the Victory website.
 

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I'm saving my pennies. May do a front speaker upgrade first. Where do you find the Victory passenger drink holder? Could not find it in on the Victory website.
It's there, it just doesn't tell you that it's a passenger cup holder. What is shown in the picture is exactly what you need to mount to passenger armrest. Under the armrests are threaded spots for the ram ball. The picture shows a ram ball but does not come with one. This comes with the cup holder and the attachment, you'll have to buy 1 ram ball. I ordered straight through my dealer.


http://www.victorymotorcycles.com/en-us/shop/accessories/driver-cup-holder/pid-2876579
 

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Discussion Starter #29
It's there, it just doesn't tell you that it's a passenger cup holder. What is shown in the picture is exactly what you need to mount to passenger armrest. Under the armrests are threaded spots for the ram ball. The picture shows a ram ball but does not come with one. This comes with the cup holder and the attachment, you'll have to buy 1 ram ball. I ordered straight through my dealer.


http://www.victorymotorcycles.com/en-us/shop/accessories/driver-cup-holder/pid-2876579
Great, thanks!
 

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I have a 2012 XCT, have 23,000+ miles on it, and here are my thoughts:

Some free mods:

- The lowers (things with the little cubbies in them, and the adjustable air doors) are often misadjusted, or will get that way. See http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/#26 and the next pic in my gallery for a discussion of this.

- The passenger floorboard circlips can become a problem, so slather with Loctite or do something else. See http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/#28

Windshield:

I'm surprised you haven't mentioned the windshield. Your other bikes had "look-over" shields, right? And you look through your XCT barn-door shield, right? If so, you might want to check out all the windshield vendors (there are half a dozen or so), and look at windshield threads here.

The XCT windshield brackets remove easily, and then you're left with four holes, i.e., the XCT becomes an XC for windshield-buying purposes.

Passenger Cup Holder:

Well, you brought this up. That Vic item is the RAM product http://www.rammount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045066045049051050082085/Default.aspx , which I bought, except that the one from RAM includes a clamp at the end (which I didn't use) and the Vic one ends with RAM's threaded ball. In lieu of adding armrests, I did some drilling, to add this for my wife. See www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/#43 and the next three or four pics in my gallery.

Power:

Your other bikes have much better power-to-weight ratios. I'd just enjoy the XCT for what it is: a roomy, good-handling, great storage touring cruiser. I have an appointment at Lloyds for next month, but it's to make the bike less lean / run cooler, and will be under a grand.

Ergos:

Instead, I'd save my money for changes you may discover -- after riding for awhile, as others have advised -- you need in order to make that cruising and touring more comfortable. That is, if your bike makes 200HP, what good is that if you do a lot of touring and at the end of the day you head straight to a chiropractor. Some people aren't thrilled with the seats, for instance, and a lot of folks aren't thrilled with the handlebars. You can easily spend over a grand if you wind up adding a custom seat (which I haven't done... at least, not yet) and, say, HeliBars (which I have done).
 

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Passenger Cup Holder:

Well, you brought this up. That Vic item is the RAM product http://www.rammount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045066045049051050082085/Default.aspx , which I bought, except that the one from RAM includes a clamp at the end (which I didn't use) and the Vic one ends with RAM's threaded ball. In lieu of adding armrests, I did some drilling, to add this for my wife. See www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/#43 and the next three or four pics in my gallery.
It's cheaper to buy it from Victory...plus you get a Victory koozie instead of the RAM koozie. Buying from the dealer is $49.99 and no shipping charge. Buying from RAM, you pay shipping which comes out at $51 and change. thumb up
 

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I've already been in that situation (yesterday) and had to get 87. Are you saying that with those performance upgrades 87 would be a really bad thing?
Yes. Advancing the timing requires higher octane fuel to prevent knocking and pinging.

I've come across two octane boosters that have some credence among those who've tested such things: Lucas, Amsoil. Most seem to be snake oil. Anyway, you could carry a bottle with you for such occasions.

I don't know what "button" Rebel is referring to. I assume he's talking about some display for a Power Commander unit that allows the timing to be retarded on the fly. But then that'd require you buy that Power Commander too. And it only adjusts things over 2500 rpm or so. You might find the bike still pings on the gas below there.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I have a 2012 XCT, have 23,000+ miles on it, and here are my thoughts:

Some free mods:

- The lowers (things with the little cubbies in them, and the adjustable air doors) are often misadjusted, or will get that way. See http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/#26 and the next pic in my gallery for a discussion of this.

- The passenger floorboard circlips can become a problem, so slather with Loctite or do something else. See http://www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/#28

Windshield:

I'm surprised you haven't mentioned the windshield. Your other bikes had "look-over" shields, right? And you look through your XCT barn-door shield, right? If so, you might want to check out all the windshield vendors (there are half a dozen or so), and look at windshield threads here.

The XCT windshield brackets remove easily, and then you're left with four holes, i.e., the XCT becomes an XC for windshield-buying purposes.

Passenger Cup Holder:

Well, you brought this up. That Vic item is the RAM product http://www.rammount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045066045049051050082085/Default.aspx , which I bought, except that the one from RAM includes a clamp at the end (which I didn't use) and the Vic one ends with RAM's threaded ball. In lieu of adding armrests, I did some drilling, to add this for my wife. See www.billanddot.com/victory-xct/#43 and the next three or four pics in my gallery.

Power:

Your other bikes have much better power-to-weight ratios. I'd just enjoy the XCT for what it is: a roomy, good-handling, great storage touring cruiser. I have an appointment at Lloyds for next month, but it's to make the bike less lean / run cooler, and will be under a grand.

Ergos:

Instead, I'd save my money for changes you may discover -- after riding for awhile, as others have advised -- you need in order to make that cruising and touring more comfortable. That is, if your bike makes 200HP, what good is that if you do a lot of touring and at the end of the day you head straight to a chiropractor. Some people aren't thrilled with the seats, for instance, and a lot of folks aren't thrilled with the handlebars. You can easily spend over a grand if you wind up adding a custom seat (which I haven't done... at least, not yet) and, say, HeliBars (which I have done).
Thanks for all the information!!! Great stuff!

Yes, the windscreen is an issue but I bought a smaller one that I'm going to install Monday when my Madstad gets here. I do not like looking through the barn door.

The seat seems ok so far, but I've had a Corbin on all of my bikes so that might be something I look at after taking a long trip on this bike.

I have 500 miles on the bike but I have not spent more that 1 1/2 hours on it at one time yet. I do plan on a few long days of riding before jumping into anything besides the little things.

Look forward to hearing about your trip to Lloyds!
 

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I don't know what "button" Rebel is referring to. I assume he's talking about some display for a Power Commander unit that allows the timing to be retarded on the fly. But then that'd require you buy that Power Commander too. And it only adjusts things over 2500 rpm or so. You might find the bike still pings on the gas below there.
Reading my post one more time might help ;) My signature might as well. I'll explain it again. I run the AFR+ which has an air fuel ratio gauge. This gage has a mode button, an add fuel button and subtract fuel button. Pinging is caused by over advanced timing, you can compensate for that with higher octane fuel and/or a richer fuel mixture. The button Im speaking of is the add more fuel button which sits just to the left of my throttle grip. If you have to run a lower octane fuel, you can push the button a couple times, richening the mixture to prevent the ping (which takes 5 seconds), until you can get to higher octane fuel. The needle on the gauge points to where your AF ratio is, so when you adjust it you see the needle move in real time. Simply put it back where it belongs once you get the correct fuel. It'll work in a pinch.

While I've had to search a couple gas stations looking for 91, I've yet to have to put 87 in it.
 

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Thanks for all the information!!! Great stuff!

Yes, the windscreen is an issue but I bought a smaller one that I'm going to install Monday when my Madstad gets here. I do not like looking through the barn door.

The seat seems ok so far, but I've had a Corbin on all of my bikes so that might be something I look at after taking a long trip on this bike.

I have 500 miles on the bike but I have not spent more that 1 1/2 hours on it at one time yet. I do plan on a few long days of riding before jumping into anything besides the little things.

Look forward to hearing about your trip to Lloyds!
You're welcome -- just trying to help, on the oft chance that I have anything useful to say.

BTW, I forgot one item on the (almost) freebie list: battery-terminal lock-washers. Here's what I bought at Lowes, per posts that I had read a couple years back. If those battery bolts loosen, you can experience all sorts of strange, hard-to-diagnose, problems. I used these lock-washers, and also put some blue thread-locker on the bottom few threads, and some dielectric grease on a few threads under the tops of the bolts. IMHO, the torque specs for those battery-terminal bolts are way too low, and I'm not a fan of the design: I prefer battery bolts that have a nut underneath, instead of only threading into a terminal.

Last, you bet, I'll report back in a month or so. I've corresponded with Lloyd (and also visited his shop), specifying that I'm not looking for power, just a cooler-running engine, and he seemed to understand.
 

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Pinging is caused by over advanced timing, you can compensate for that with higher octane fuel and/or a richer fuel mixture.
I have never heard that before. It is my understanding that temperature and pressure are apt to ignite highly volatile (low octane) blends of fuel at improper times in a combustion cycle. It's unclear to me why adding more fuel would change this situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
You're welcome -- just trying to help, on the oft chance that I have anything useful to say.

BTW, I forgot one item on the (almost) freebie list: battery-terminal lock-washers. Here's what I bought at Lowes, per posts that I had read a couple years back. If those battery bolts loosen, you can experience all sorts of strange, hard-to-diagnose, problems. I used these lock-washers, and also put some blue thread-locker on the bottom few threads, and some dielectric grease on a few threads under the tops of the bolts. IMHO, the torque specs for those battery-terminal bolts are way too low, and I'm not a fan of the design: I prefer battery bolts that have a nut underneath, instead of only threading into a terminal.

Last, you bet, I'll report back in a month or so. I've corresponded with Lloyd (and also visited his shop), specifying that I'm not looking for power, just a cooler-running engine, and he seemed to understand.
I look forward to hearing what he does.
 

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You can buy them star washers at any hardware store for 35 cents.
You want 1/4" size
 

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I have never heard that before. It is my understanding that temperature and pressure are apt to ignite highly volatile (low octane) blends of fuel at improper times in a combustion cycle. It's unclear to me why adding more fuel would change this situation.
I guess you're never too old to learn. Advancing the timing does cause ping, MOSTLY because you're leaning out your mixture. The further advance you go, the more lean the mixture. That's why adding fuel would change the situation.

post #55, I'm surprised you hadn't read this, I've posted it on a couple threads regarding ATS.

http://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=77593&highlight=email+communication&page=6
 
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