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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
first off, Rylan at the vic shop is awesome. he answered the phone after hours and spent the time to talk to me about this issue.

so, my 2010 cross roads now has 8700 miles on it, the first year I ran victory oil, the next 2 seasons I used Castrol semisynthetic 20w-50 motorcycle oil for use with wet clutches. I have never had any issues. this spring I changed it with the same Castrol as before. Saturday I got back from a 2155 mile trip to the smokey mountains and on the way back I stopped at a vic dealer and grabbed an oil change kit. I changed the oil on yesterday and it slipped twice today.

from what I gathered from Rylan, the change in oil types could cause this and it could possibly go away. he also informed me I could be needing a clutch soon. has anyone else had an issue like this arise and go away??

my clutch cable is adjusted so there is plenty of slack, yes it has been checked cold.

if I do need a clutch, Lloyd has the Barnett kit with the steel and fiber plates, is that all I should do? I will have cams soon so I don't want to shortcut anything, lets do this once and be done.
 

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first off, Rylan at the vic shop is awesome. he answered the phone after hours and spent the time to talk to me about this issue.

so, my 2010 cross roads now has 8700 miles on it, the first year I ran victory oil, the next 2 seasons I used Castrol semisynthetic 20w-50 motorcycle oil for use with wet clutches. I have never had any issues. this spring I changed it with the same Castrol as before. Saturday I got back from a 2155 mile trip to the smokey mountains and on the way back I stopped at a vic dealer and grabbed an oil change kit. I changed the oil on yesterday and it slipped twice today.

from what I gathered from Rylan, the change in oil types could cause this and it could possibly go away. he also informed me I could be needing a clutch soon. has anyone else had an issue like this arise and go away??

my clutch cable is adjusted so there is plenty of slack, yes it has been checked cold.

if I do need a clutch, Lloyd has the Barnett kit with the steel and fiber plates, is that all I should do? I will have cams soon so I don't want to shortcut anything, lets do this once and be done.
Hmm i would think the first path i would take would be to change the oil back to what worked for you... I use amsoil and i have never had the clutch slip... I find it hard to believe you would need a clutch with so little miles on the bike... maybe someone else has had a similar experience and can help more?
 

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first off, Rylan at the vic shop is awesome. he answered the phone after hours and spent the time to talk to me about this issue.

so, my 2010 cross roads now has 8700 miles on it, the first year I ran victory oil, the next 2 seasons I used Castrol semisynthetic 20w-50 motorcycle oil for use with wet clutches. I have never had any issues. this spring I changed it with the same Castrol as before. Saturday I got back from a 2155 mile trip to the smokey mountains and on the way back I stopped at a vic dealer and grabbed an oil change kit. I changed the oil on yesterday and it slipped twice today.

from what I gathered from Rylan, the change in oil types could cause this and it could possibly go away. he also informed me I could be needing a clutch soon. has anyone else had an issue like this arise and go away??

my clutch cable is adjusted so there is plenty of slack, yes it has been checked cold.

if I do need a clutch, Lloyd has the Barnett kit with the steel and fiber plates, is that all I should do? I will have cams soon so I don't want to shortcut anything, lets do this once and be done.
What does Rylan say as far as a clutch change is concerned. What does he recommend?
 

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the operative word "COULD" be needing a clutch soon.

At that low miles and with a correctly adjusted clutch and the only change being your oil change that "COULD" have caused the slip.

I'd be going back to the oil you used previous before even considering a clutch change, as it COULD still be servicable for many miles to come.

Beautiful looking bike by the way, nice colour!
 

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The addition of my license plate laydown bracket will fix your clutch and make the rear end look a lot better without that stand up plate. Click the first link in my signature.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What does Rylan say as far as a clutch change is concerned. What does he recommend?
We didn't go into depth of what would be required, if I do have to replace it the parts will come from him. I just like to read and do as much homework as possible so there are no surprises.

As to changing back to the oil I was using. I can honestly say the bike sounds and shifts much smoother with the victory oil. If I can make it through the transition I'd prefer this route.
 

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Absolutely change out the clutch. You said it yourself. You are wanting to do comprehensive correction. Clutch is easy and a no brainer. I wouldn't enjoy my machine if it had been slipping and all I had done to cure it was dump different goo in it. Every patch of sand or road snake would have me fretting that the clutch was disintegrating.

I refuse to get embroiled in oil philosophy but as far as comprehensive repair goes, if in doubt tear it out. FWIW Pop will swap in Barnett's when the time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I agree completely pop. however why spend the money if it will go away and last another 50k? call me crazy but less than 9k miles and I might need a clutch, that's some bull stank!!
 

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I agree completely pop. however why spend the money if it will go away and last another 50k? call me crazy but less than 9k miles and I might need a clutch, that's some bull stank!!
Bull stank indeed but Pop is Purdy accurate on this one. You just put in the Victory approved oil and now have a slippage problem. That's One for the oil forums. I would really love to know what caused this problem. I going out on a limb on this one but I have to say the non compatibility of the 2 oils possibly. Due to the low mileage on your bike it is hard to believe that you need a clutch already. I wouldn't go back to the Castrol oil though. Check you adjustment and ride a little more. It might just work itself out. If not then it's clutch time.

It has been stated (on an oil thread) that mixing oils is not good. Find what you like that is JASO/40 wt rated and stick with it. It will help eliminate some of the issues with these Trannys and clutches. The Tranny's are bullet proof. The clutch? Not so much.
 

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Make that JASO-MA...or better yet, JASO-MA2. Look for that in the small print on the back of the container.
There are non-motorcycle oils with that rating and there are some here using it, including yours truly. Analysis shows it holds up exceedingly well.
 

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What do you mean you have plenty of play in the cable? Should be only a 1/8 th inch at hand control. No more then that and no less.

I think the oil your using 20/50 is to thick. It seams like every post where some ones clutch is slipping there running to thick of oil.
In my vision I'm running Amsoil 10/40 with just over thirty thousand on it and no problems. I can get the front wheel off the ground and at times break the rear wheel loose and the bike goes sideways.

I do believe in the last say five years all clutch fiber plates have been designed to work with synthetic oils so if they have we must be doing something wrong. Barnett's fiber plates have been synthetic friendly for ten years or more.

If It was me I would go to dealer or call and order a primary gasket today. Cause your going to want one and you know its going to take five days for dealer to get.
 

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The addition of my license plate laydown bracket will fix your clutch and make the rear end look a lot better without that stand up plate. Click the first link in my signature.:)
You sir, are shameless. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well where is everyone measuring this 1/8" of play? The cable that you can't see to measure? I can wiggle my lever toward the grip about 1/2" before I can see the cable down low move. It isn't too tight and it fully disengaged way before I get it pulled to the grip.

And how could the oil that victory says is the only thing I should use be too thick? The Castro I had been using was the same weight, semisynthetic, and designed for wet clutch applications.

I'm very confused over this whole thing and am not sure what to do. I don't care about the money. I just don't understand why its slipping, and if this is what victory offers for a clutch life.....

If I can't trust the bike it's worthless to me, what if it decides to slip when I NEED to get out of the way of something.
 

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You said Castro 20-50 which I think Vision is refering to and Victory sells and reccomends 20-40.

I am not real familiar with Victory yet, but the 1/8" is play at the lever before it starts to pull/engage. If there is 1/2", that is way to much. If you are not sure, just swing by a dealer and ask them to show you which should not be a problem.

You have a nice motorcycle, so don't get frustrated, just swing by a dealer and have them check it out and ask questions, it could be something as simple as an adjustment and or giving it another oil change. OR if it ends up being the clutch, then do all your mods you have mentioned and get the clutch to match so you do not add stress to a stock clutch with performance parts.

Just my 2 cents and what I would do. Been a Harley guy for some time but thinking about a change and I am looking at the Cross Roads myself, I just haven't opened the wallet yet. cheers
 

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I keep a lot more then 1/8 inch free play in my clutch. Prefer it closer to the grip for slow speed control. As long as it disengages fully it's fine.
 

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I keep a lot more then 1/8 inch free play in my clutch. Prefer it closer to the grip for slow speed control. As long as it disengages fully it's fine.
This^^^. Less than 1/8" is not good, more than an 1/8" (within reason) is not going to cause any issues. As long as it fully disengages when the lever is pulled, the clutch can do it's job.
 

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I'll give that a x3. A little extra play in the clutch lever is not an issue and in fact is downright helpful for folks with smaller hands as it brings the friction zone closer to the grip. So long as the bike doesn't creep when you pull the clutch lever in, you'll be fine. thumb up
 

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Squeeze the clutch lever toward the handlebar
and release it. It should move freely and
smoothly, and it should return to the rest position
quickly when released. If the lever fails to
perform as stated, service the clutch lever before
riding.
2. Freeplay (gap) is the amount of lever movement
from the rest position to the point of cable resistance.
Clutch lever freeplay should be 0.5-1.5
mm. Measure the gap between the clutch lever
and the lever housing. Adjust clutch lever freeplay if necessary. See page 73.
Tip: The starter interlock switch is dependent on the clutch lever freeplay being set correctly to ensure
activation of the clutch safety switch.
Friction
Material
Minimum: 1.0 mm
Front Rear
2-4 mm to
resistance
Lever
Housing
Clutch
0.5-1.5 mm Lever
 
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