Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey,
I've been looking at a CC for a while now. On the 2011 CC in white w/trunk, dealers best price so far is 21K OTD. I don't want black or blue. He does have a 2010 CC in Cherry...15,800 OTD. My questions are...first, will the trunk fit on the 2010 (I'll shoot it cherry to match the bike), and is the 2011 tranny that much better. I rode the 2011, but the 2010 is at another location quite a ways from me. Just wondering what others thoughts on this would be who have ridden or owned both.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
You can buy the trunk in midnight cherry and it can go on a 2010 CC. For 2010's you will need to buy an uplift kit for the trunk that is not required on the 2011's. The trunk came out about the same time 2011 models were released so the CC and CR were both designed to work with the trunk with no additional parts.
Transmissions are debatable; in theory the 2011 transmission is better because of the redesign however you will find people reporting problems with it. A few people have mentioned that it pops out of gear, gives false neutrals and is clunky. The 2010 transmission whines in a couple of gears but that's the only fault I have heard about.
Your choice; you can buy a 2011 with a redesigned transmission that some people have problems with for $21k or you can save $5200 and buy a bike that is still awesome but makes a little noise. One other plus with a 2011 is that the oil change interval was increased from 2500 miles to 5000 miles because of the transmission redesign.
$5200 would pay taxes, licensing, pay for aftermarket exhaust and still leave you with a lot of cash for chrome and other goodies.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
I have no problems with my transmission either. I've had a couple of false neutrals and gear slip outs but all of those were because I didn't shift firmly enough.
The only thing I could consider off is that it's kind of tough to gear down when stopped. This happened a few times; I would pull off the highway on the exit ramp and not gear down as I was slowing -- I had to roll back and forth a few inches to get it to shift from 5th to 1st.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,200 Posts
I have experienced no problems with my 2010's tranny either. Was kluncky at first, but with some breaking in and preloading the shifter, shifts are now smooth and relatively quiet. Yet, I have only around 3,000 miles on her. If you aren't preloading the shifter, give it a try - you'll get smoother shifting and no need to pull the clutch lever all the way to the grip. BTW, I wear ear plugs and a 3/4 or full face helmet, so the sound is no problem.
 

·
The Diamond
Joined
·
4,001 Posts
Welcome to the Victory Forums.

A couple of pointers. Please take the time to read the “Sticky” threads in the “Victory Forums Rules and New Members Introductions” forum. This will help you out a LOT with the Victory Forums.

The Search feature is your friend! You will find the answers to a lot of your questions by using it.

If you are asking questions that are of a technical/mechanical/electrical/performance nature please place them in the “Victory Tech and Performance” forum. This will speed up a response. Placing them in the model specific forum can delay a response.


Now that my copy and paste welcome is done.

I don't think it is so much a tranny PROBLEM as much as it is the noise.

I haven't been on a 2011 so I can't speak of the difference but Vic supposedly went to a lot of trouble to reduce the noise and help find neutral easier.

Since most people put aftermarket pipes on I don't really think its a problem. I know since 06 there have been 2 improvements to the tranny noise. They started with the 09's with a redesigned cover then the 2011 with an improvement to the gears. I personally only have a problem finding neutral after my oil has about 1800 miles on it.

I have the NOISY tranny and with my pipes I don't hear a thing from the tranny! LOL

Personally I would go with the 2010 and use the extra money for pipes and accessories!thumb upthumb up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
I have experienced no problems with my 2010's tranny either. Was kluncky at first, but with some breaking in and preloading the shifter, shifts are now smooth and relatively quiet. Yet, I have only around 3,000 miles on her. If you aren't preloading the shifter, give it a try - you'll get smoother shifting and no need to pull the clutch lever all the way to the grip. BTW, I wear ear plugs and a 3/4 or full face helmet, so the sound is no problem.
ok I will ask..........how do you pre-load a shifter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
to me it depends on what matters to you the most. I have the 2010 and the whirling noise the primary makes is what bothers me the most. Went and looked at the 2011 bike today and put it side by side with my bike and there was no difference there. Now the bike tends to clunk when shifting gears.......for some reason that doesn't bother me at all, kinda like it........for others it drives them crazy. Also in the 2011 they made 4th and 6th gears quiter...........I ride with tunes and I can't hear the gears much anyway. Knowing what I know, I would do like diamond said and get the 2010 and save the money for some good accessories.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,200 Posts
ok I will ask..........how do you pre-load a shifter?
When upshifting, lift your toe against the shifter, applying enough pressure that will have it go into the next gear when you pull the clutch into the friction zone, but not so much pressure as to force an upshift without the clutch. Do the same for downshifts. This technique produces smoother, quieter shifts. The smoother you are with all the controls, the longer your bike will last and the more efficient your riding skills become. Your passenger will appreciate you being smooth too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Hey,
I've been looking at a CC for a while now. On the 2011 CC in white w/trunk, dealers best price so far is 21K OTD. I don't want black or blue. He does have a 2010 CC in Cherry...15,800 OTD. My questions are...first, will the trunk fit on the 2010 (I'll shoot it cherry to match the bike), and is the 2011 tranny that much better. I rode the 2011, but the 2010 is at another location quite a ways from me. Just wondering what others thoughts on this would be who have ridden or owned both.
Thanks

I test rode the 2011 and 2010 models. It did seem like the 2011 shifted smoother. I ended up with the 2010 XR the end of last October. I got a good deal and couldn't see that much difference. I have not been able to ride yet this year due to winter weather in Iowa. I do know I have to remember to shift into a lower gear at corners than I was accustomed to with my previous bike. I sometimes chug around corners.

Dixie
2010 XR
Heated seat, ]
Cruise
Heal shifter
Saddlebag Guards
Highway Bars
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,200 Posts
ladyridr; I do know I have to remember to shift into a lower gear at corners than I was accustomed to with my previous bike. I sometimes chug around corners.

Unfortunately, you belong to a big club made up of riders that aren't in the proper rev range, especially in curves. The usual excuse is, "I don't want to hurt my engine by overrevving it."

Allow me to give you (and those other underrevvers out there) some advice that will benefit both your riding enjoyment and your bike's engine...KEEP THE REVS UP! When approaching a curve, downshift to the gear you want to be in when accelerating away from it.

With higher revs, you'll have much more control through throttle response. If you need to go faster or slower and you are in a higher gear, not much happens, does it? But when you are in a lower gear, you get much more response regardless if yoiu want to go faster or slower.

And don't worry about hurting your engine, motorcycle engines are built to rev, especially the Victory 106. Lugging will damage it. You can't overrev it as there is a built in rev limiter that cuts in at around 5,000 RPM. When working switchbacks in the mountains, my tach is often reading around 4,000 RPMs +. That gives me the control I need to maneuver those tight curves. I once was riding with a buddy on his Honda ST1300 and he could not keep up with me and my XR in the twisties.

Now, go out there and get those revs UP!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
528 Posts
Good point RICZ

If your a lazy rider, just chilling, keeping the engine above 2,300-2,500 minimum rpm's can and will make a big difference in your riding skills, it will also eliminate lugging. lugging will put unneeded stress off the crank, crank bearings, clutch, transmission main shaft bearing and transmission parts.
The 106 does not fair well when lugging.
I think the Victory bikes has the rubber cushion on the rear wheel pulley that can absorb some of the lash/lugging but it will not protect much, just gives you a smoother feeling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,200 Posts
I just noticed that Ladyridr lives in Iowa, where twistie is something you close a plastic bag with. Ladyridr, if you reside in eastern Iowa, cross over to Galena, Illinois, there's some scenic and curvy roads around there where you can practice executing them with those revs up. I was there last summer and took a picture of the sign on the Victory Cafe in downtown Galena - its the one you see in the upper left of this post. There's a lot of history and good eating there in downtown Galena too.

I like to say the 106 has a split personality - its equally happy just to be trolling down the boulevard, or screaming around curves in the hills.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I just noticed that Ladyridr lives in Iowa, where twistie is something you close a plastic bag with.

Yes- I do live in Iowa and I ride eastern Iowa, Wisconsin and Illinois many times during the year. Great riding. Galena is one of our stops. Western Iowa has some great riding in the Loess Hills area. Since we used to live in the Loess Hills side of the state my hubby knows a lot of back roads that have some nice riding.

Where I had problems with lugging was in turning corners. I was used to running in third when turning with my smaller bike but have to remind myself to drop down to second on the XR. I did get to ride some twisties before putting her away for the winter and she ran perfectly in them or I should say I ran here correctly in the curves.

I was only able to get in 1000 miles before Iowa winter hit last fall so I am looking forward to getting on the bike to see how she handles. We have a trip planned to Lake George, NY this June which may be the long trip this year. Since we are DINK's we take off every weekend for some desination usually riding for 500 to 800 miles so we get a lot of riding time in.

Thanks for tips. I accept any tips I can get to improve my riding.

Dixie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,200 Posts
Dixie,
When we were in the neighborhood last summer, we happened on J&P Cycle's open house in Anamosa, what a hoot. Have you ever attended one? If not, it's worth a look see. It's huge and all the major accessory mfrs are there, and free food too!

Get yourself the RIDE LIKE A PRO DVD. He makes one especially for women, but it doesn't matter which one you get. And it doesn't matter who you are, or how long you've been riding, it will definately make you a better rider. It's advertised in every MC magazine, or check it out on line. It's the best money you will spend as a rider. I had been riding for over five decades when I got mine. Did it help? You bet! Even tho I have had various courses, including Reg Pridmore's CLASS, which is taught at race tracks. That course is where I learned to keep revs way up and do everything very smoothly - no hammering the controls.

I would love to see a closeup picture of those lime green pinstripes. Sounds great.

Ric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Dixie,
When we were in the neighborhood last summer, we happened on J&P Cycle's open house in Anamosa, what a hoot. Have you ever attended one? If not, it's worth a look see. It's huge and all the major accessory mfrs are there, and free food too!

Get yourself the RIDE LIKE A PRO DVD. He makes one especially for women, but it doesn't matter which one you get. And it doesn't matter who you are, or how long you've been riding, it will definately make you a better rider. It's advertised in every MC magazine, or check it out on line. It's the best money you will spend as a rider. I had been riding for over five decades when I got mine. Did it help? You bet! Even tho I have had various courses, including Reg Pridmore's CLASS, which is taught at race tracks. That course is where I learned to keep revs way up and do everything very smoothly - no hammering the controls.

I would love to see a closeup picture of those lime green pinstripes. Sounds great.

Ric
We have been to J&P many times. It is a fun place- did you leave without dropping some money? Rather hard for us to not find something we can't live without when we go there.

I do have Ride Like A Pro DVD. I started riding again after 30 years in June of 2009. The first two weeks I spent in the parking lot practicing under the guidance of my husband. We ordered the DVD and I watched and still keep practicing.

First bike was a honda aero 750. In November of 2009 I bought a Kaw 900 LT. After riding 17000 miles in 2010 I decided I needed a little larger bike so I could ride down the rode without revving real high. I stared out thinking I wanted a Kingpin but then rode the XR and changed my mind.

My one concern was that I was just short of flat footing the XR. Maybe 1/2. The dealer said there was a "low seat" that would drop an inch. I just got it on this January and am a little disappointed. It doesn't seem any lower. I am hoping after breaking it in it will drop a little. If that doesn't happen I may look for a different pair of riding boots with a taller heel.

I have attached a photo of the bike. Hope you can see the pinstriping.

Dixie
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,200 Posts
Yup, I left some dollars at the open house. Went there to find a kit for lowering the passenger pegs for my wife and I found them. It worked out well cuz I got to see before buying and there was a discount and then the shipping was free. Such a deal!

Re your saddle: The best way to get it right is to go (personally) to a saddle customizer, not a mail order outfit. My last bike, a first generartion Yamaha Venture touring bike had a 150 mile saddle. I went to Rich's Custom Saddles in Seattle and he made it into a 700 mile saddle. Yes, I put in a few of those. It's like getting a tailored suit that fits only you. I also had heat built into it. That's gotta be the greatest thing since the invention of the motorcycle. No stopping to put on more layers - just flip the switch. I have a Gerbing jacket liner that went unused until I got my XR. My XR's saddle is about 95% good for me, but after having one saddle cusomized, I'm gonna get this one done too and add the heat, of course. This time, I'm going to EdsMoto in Albany, Oregon.

Had to look pretty hard, but I did see the striping....nice.

Ric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Had to look pretty hard, but I did see the striping....nice.

Ric[/QUOTE]

I attached a few other photos. Maybe a little better.

My seat came from Polaris but I like your idea of having it custom fit. My husband did that on his mustang seat.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,200 Posts
Oh yeah, the stipes really show up in those shots. One of the riding jackets I wear is mostly lime green (so the cagers can see me better) and those stripes would be a good tie-in between the two. But my XR is Midnight Cherry and lime green pinstriping wouldn't look too good.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top