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The mans unwavering persistence has to be admired and to tell you the truth I'm kind of starting to like the guy. I do like someone that stands by their convictions and rodhotter does that squared.

...so I'm thinking he needs a biker nickname that gives credit to his need to over-educate the general riding public. The group this and that man. I'm bringing this up all in fun and in no way trying to be mean so don't be mean just give the man the credit he deserves.



mobil I 20-50 V-Twin is a good choice in a warm climate but it does NOT use the PAO group IV base oil it once did. its now a group III mineral oil, still legally labeled "synthetic"much better than most though.
your engine is well broke in so the real synthetic PAO ester oil 15-50 would offer the most protection. with your warm climate the 50w will work well + 15w will be good at startup. you could easily go 5,000 or more between changes. the 15-50 semi synthetic is only 30% group III legally synthetic in most countries the rest is lower grade base oils. the PAO + Ester mix will run cooler + should shift better longer. if you feel its not worth the xtra $$ use one of the other 50 wts. the 20-50 mineral may be a cheaper option but will need shorter intervals between changes. switching types will be no problem + its said that 2 changes are necessary to realize exactly what the different oil is doing. i would use the 15w50 PAO + ester oil first. the PAO is a group IV man made lubricant as is the ester, its a Group V lubricant, both made in a lab nor refined from crude oil. good luck + enjoy a great motorcycle!!!
Amsoil decided to blend a superior oil for those with warranty + unwarranted clutch slippage concerns. its a group III legally synthetic MINERAL oil + NOT a manmade true Group IV + V synthetic as their other 10-40 + 20-50 premium synthetic + synthetic motorcycle oils are. check out the specs on the link, that 3.6 Noack is out of this world GREAT!! most manufacturers post little + hard to find specs! i would like to see the specs on Vic's overpriced oil for sure. being a full synthetic even if only Group III its flow + heat resistance will be very good, as synthetic oils of the same viscosity as a mineral oil will circulate faster. more choices + discussions!!!!!
you can read forever on lubricants, cost vs performance can decide what you use. since its your first change stick with a mineral oil, group III + down until your next change. there's the gotta use Vic oil its a Vic, in reality any approved oil meeting the spec is ok. i see you live in a cooler climate, be aware 20wt mineral oils flow very slowly when they are cold, possibly causing wear. IMO a 10w-40 or the popular rotella T 15-40 are options. in the heat a 20-50 protects better. i am from the Amsoil camp + use their premium synthetic 20-50 Group IV + V oil + feel its worth the cost as you can run it longer. Vic's 20-40 is a $$$$ maker, only 30% group III legally synthetic + the rest cheaper-dirtier group II or lower oils. it has a good add pack but shears quickly to a thinner oil from heat + our shared tranny engine sump. to learn about oils search, motoroilevaluators.com has some good info as well as bobistheoilguy.com explaining all the terminology + oil Groups. the evaluator site takes no advertising + makes no recommendations so its prolly more up front than sites that are sponsored! enjoy your new ride as weather is finally getting better. doing simple service work will save $$$. i bought a service manual but links are posted to a free downloadable ones at times. i want to note our forum Amsoil sponsor has the best pricing delivered to your door, their new highly discussed 20-40 for Vic's + Indians is a superior Group III legally labeled synthetic + can be used immediately since its not a true group IV + V man made synthetic
Amsoil for one does NOT recommend any additives to their top quality real synthetics. they say NOT to use any additives as their oils are formulated, "not refined from crude" my comment to provide the best protection + function. nothing against Lucas but if that additive is not any better than their motorcycle oils WELL!!! some failed to meet minimum specs when tested independently!!!! in the end your bike your $$$ if your happy with it all is good. by the way what "premium" synthetic are you using, just curious. all input is appreciated as everyone makes their own choices!!
in those temps a shear stable real synthetic for sure, penrite's 20-50 mineral oil until broken in, then i would use the 15-50 PAO ester synthetic. i have never used the factory oil or filter from the manufacturer as well, like harley oil vic oil is overpriced + underperforming. our Vic's are harder on oil + should use a quality group IV PAO which contains some group V ester or an ester base oil. oil requirements are based on conditions + should be noted in manuals as such, a 20-X is too thick in the cold especially a mineral oil + a X-40 is too thin in high temps as where you live. ester base oils withstand the most heat of any, hence their higher cost. heat as well as our gearboxes shear oil + can quickly make a non shear stable oil 20-40 a 20-30, surely not good
it don't get any easier, for under $10 i get Ams 20-50 or 10-40 premium synthetic oil delivered from our sponsor everything included! a note on viscosities, real group IV + V synthetics flow quicker by nature comparing to mineral oils, a CCS spec Ams gives is a cold cranking simulator standardized test of how the oil flows at the 40 degrees C - 104 F also a standard test. few give this spec but on oilevaluators.com its listed for many oils + tells you how your oil performs at a certain temperature. many tests are required "by law" to classify an oil + the lower performing oils seldom give any data they have from required tests, they only show their premium oils favorable specs. thinner oils being recommended for todays cars + trucks in usa are all about MPG's PERIOD!!! again a 5w mineral oil starts life as a 5w oil with lots of fragile viscosity index improvers to meet the upper rating, so a 10w is better a 20w even better yet except for cold flow. Ams 10-30 group IV + V oils start as a "30"w but qualify as a 10-30 without additives!! as Vin says use whatever you want, i enjoy learning about lubrication + passing it on to those who don't have the time to look, read + look some more. happy riding as its finally warming up in PA

This is just a tiny sampling of the repetitive posts Roddy does.
 

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I usually need to read his posts at least 3 times to start to understand him.....

I do say that with peace and love , peace and love thumb up .

;)

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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The oil guru ? Or just GURU sounds appropriate ??
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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GURU is a nice name with no disrespect .... Who cares what oil you put un your bike ...as long as it makes you happy ??
I found out by oil analysis that vic oil starts deterioration at 7000 Km

Maybe another oil can last 8000 or 10000 km ?? Oil analysis mate ....

OOoOOOPS this tread is going where now ???

Ha ja
 

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Anyway what is the point of all this if Rodhotter is not able to change his name ?? At least i think it is not possible??

But maybe if this tread is going full sentetic we van change our names ???

Ps can sombody invite rodhotter to this tread ??
 

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Captain Viscosity - Synthetic Sire - Lubricity Lion
 

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I to appreciate the effort rod puts into his posts about lube,:D
Name, Slippery Sam, doe no, maybe not......thumb up
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Now we have some good ones going. :ltr:
 

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Lubricator
Viscosity
Synthetic
GURU
SynteticVIC
Slipery Sam

ha ha ha i like it i like it

Anyway can somebody invite rodhotter to this tread and join the fun ??

Then maybe a forum administrator can change his name to

Xxxxc formally known to Rothotter ha ha
 

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The man makes sense and has done his research for sure. Therefore I crown him "DUKE OF OIL"............thumb up
 

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The man makes sense and has done his research for sure. Therefore I crown him "DUKE OF OIL"............thumb up
Or , He can be known as "The Duke of Plagiarism" !:ltr:
 

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Rodhotter is a good guy who gets bashed for the info he brings? He's 100 % correct in what he brings to the oil discussions (redundant answers or not he gets his message across) , don't really know why we need a thread for a nickname to be used against him every time he posts for now on? I'll stick with rodhotter...
 

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Rodhotter is a good guy who gets bashed for the info he brings? He's 100 % correct in what he brings to the oil discussions (redundant answers or not he gets his message across) , don't really know why we need a thread for a nickname to be used against him every time he posts for now on? I'll stick with rodhotter...
I'm not sure but I think this is all in fun , at least it is for me . He IS a great guy , we have had personal dealings together too . This has been a respectful thread for the most part .... Just a bunch of fella's messin around ....
 
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