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G'day from Aus guys,


Just purchased a 2012 Highball, It has 18000km on it and I was unsure of the service history so I changed the oil for good measure, Used a factory victory service kit.

Dropped the oil as usual (It was dark brown, not black no metallics) changed the filter etc, Filled her up with 5quarts took her around the block and all good, shift smoother and not as tappy on startup.

However when I poured the old oil into the empty bottles to dispose of it, I only drained just under 4 quarts?? Is it normal for the 106 to burn through oil or is it a case of someone underfilling it?

It doesnt blow any smoke, the pipes are not sooty...

What say you Guru's

cheers
Garrett
 

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I say enjoy the ride. You change the oil on a recently purchased machine. Good plan. You put the recommended amount in. Good plan. You check the level, ride it briefly and recheck the level adjusting if required. Good plan.

You ride and if oil is leaking by or blowing by it will become evident shortly because you can't keep your eyes off the machine. No puddles or drips, no trail of blue smoke, no worries. Check the level as part of regular preflight and ride.

No, there is no genetic predisposition to oil loss in these motors and the reservoir is so large that running below the fill line is not a showstopper, not desirable but not worth worrying about after the fact.

Enjoy the ride.
 

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Maybe the person before you didn't fill it all the way.
 

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Oil change

My 2011 XC has never taken more than 4 qts, at a LOF. Even the dealer commented that it only took 4 qts. And yes I always change the filter. I figure the 0.5 "missing" Qt is in the cooler. When its due for a change I let it drip over night. But 4 qts fill it to just above the full mark on the dip stick.
 

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i also let mine drain for quite a while, and will bump the starter a couple times, and stand the bike up to get as much out as i can.


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G'day from Aus guys,


Just purchased a 2012 Highball, It has 18000km on it and I was unsure of the service history so I changed the oil for good measure, Used a factory victory service kit.

Dropped the oil as usual (It was dark brown, not black no metallics) changed the filter etc, Filled her up with 5quarts took her around the block and all good, shift smoother and not as tappy on startup.

However when I poured the old oil into the empty bottles to dispose of it, I only drained just under 4 quarts?? Is it normal for the 106 to burn through oil or is it a case of someone underfilling it?

It doesnt blow any smoke, the pipes are not sooty...

What say you Guru's

cheers
Garrett
mine takes 4.25 litres on a change with filter
 

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There is a guy here that went to Rylan had cams and all that done and Gabe said to use only 4.2qts. Cause most guys over fill when they try to get that 1.2qt in. Gabe said your better off with a little less then over full.

Nice to see RUN41T read his owners book and know to check his oil when the bike is straight up and down.
 

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5 qts??? Seems like that is gonna put you on the high end or even overfilled.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
5 qts??? Seems like that is gonna put you on the high end or even overfilled.
Victory quote the Highball as having a 5qt (4.7L) oil capacity?

http://www.victorymotorcycles.com/en-us/2012/cruisers/high-ball/pages/specifications.aspx

There seems to be a heap of confusion about the oil level in these bikes, Some guys say standing up after it has been at rest, some say to turn it off and check straight away, some say check on the stand when hot.

Never have I seen so much confusion over an oil level, I figured I drained all the oil, Victory say it take 5qt, Ill put 5qt in :p
 

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mine takes 4 1/2 qts. First time I put in 5, then then had to drain out 1/2 qt.
 

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Victory quote the Highball as having a 5qt (4.7L) oil capacity?

http://www.victorymotorcycles.com/en-us/2012/cruisers/high-ball/pages/specifications.aspx

There seems to be a heap of confusion about the oil level in these bikes, Some guys say standing up after it has been at rest, some say to turn it off and check straight away, some say check on the stand when hot.

Never have I seen so much confusion over an oil level, I figured I drained all the oil, Victory say it take 5qt, Ill put 5qt in :p
there's residue in the oilways and cooler and lines, 5 quarts may be ok in a freshly assembled motor, I made the same mistake and overfilled mine too, but the guys on here wised me up to it.
I now buy Aussie Penrite which comes in a 4 litre bottle and add 250 mls Lucas Oil Stabiliser which brings it up to exactly full.
And if it does use any its not noticable.
One exception was the Judge I test rode had 500 miles on it when I picked it up, took it back with 1100 on it 2 days later, during the ride the LOW OIL indicator came up, I added a pint of Vic oil to bring it up to full, so obviously some engines use a bit on the break-in.
I mentioned it to the salesman on my return and he wasn't concerned.
Also I see Vic sells their oil in both 5 quart and one quart containers
 

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Oil Capacities
Engine Oil Capacity at Oil Change
(including filter)
Engine Oil Capacity at Oil Change
(not including filter)
4.5 qt. (4.25 liter)
(approximately)
4.0 qt. (3.8 liter)
(approximately


Pre-Ride Inspections
Engine Oil Level
The oil fill cap/dipstick is located on the right side of the
vehicle. Always use the recommended oil. See page
103.
Tip: The engine must be at normal operating temperature
when checking the oil level.
Oil Fill Cap/Dipstick
1. Place the transmission in neutral.
2. Start the engine and allow it to idle for several min-
utes.
3. Stop the engine and wait 3-5 minutes before check-
ing the oil level.
4. On level ground, straddle the motorcycle and bring
it to the fully upright position.
5. Remove the oil fill cap/dipstick and wipe it
clean. Reinstall the dipstick and turn the
cap clockwise until it seats.
6. Remove the dipstick and view the oil level.
7. Add or remove oil as needed to bring the
level into the safe operating range
(between the FULL and ADD marks) on
the dipstick.
Safe Range
WARNING! Operating the engine with too much or too little oil can cause serious engine damage or
engine seizure, which could result in loss of control and serious injury or death. Do not operate the
motorcycle with the oil level above the FULL mark or below the ADD mark.

Yes, lots of confusion. I normally don't tell folks to read the OM, but in this case you should. Specs are 5 qt capacity, not a change capacity. The change capacity is a bit optimistic, I can only get a splash over 4 qts as well during a change.
You need to drain a bit of oil before you cause damage to your motor sycle.

The above are copy and pasted from owners manual.

Cheers
 

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there is still oil in the motor and the parts are still coated, i dont run it, just bump it.


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Bump it fine but when it catches and starts then what are you going to do and it will some day.
I have never under stood why they tell you to run motor before changing oil. There is oil that sits up in the heads and oil passage ways and nooks and cranes thats never coming out.
Your never going to get all the old oil out no matter what you try.
 

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i change oil on all my vehicle the same, they have all started, just kill it right away. warming them up before changing lets the oil flow out easier , and gets the crud more suspended so it will flow out.


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i change oil on all my vehicle the same, they have all started, just kill it right away. warming them up before changing lets the oil flow out easier , and gets the crud more suspended so it will flow out.


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Each to their own ,
but Id never 'bump' the starter on a machine that didn't have a 'kill' for the ignition to prevent starting.
Older bikes I could kick through a few times with ignition off ...yes.
bikes I can kill the ignition on and still crank starter...yes I have.
I always run the engine up to operating temp as stated in the owners manual of every vehicle I've owned.
But , no , Id never risk starting and engine without oil.

***disclaimer***
I did once start an old extrememely worn GMHolden 6 cyl. engine of early 50's vintage, on the ground, on purpose, with no oil or water in it.
Throttle wired full open...
The engine was rooted and used lots of oil and fouled plugs regularly.
So it was sot of a 'sacrifice' to the engine Gods:rolleyes:
The old grey engine smokily revved its ring out for what seemed like an eterninty before throwing number six rod out the side of the engine, taking out the distributor, and stopping the motor!
Another similar "sacrifice" I did prior to removing a worn engine to replace it...same deal no oil, no water, throttle wide open!
It ran for a few minutes too, smokily roaring its head off, bringing people out of nearby workshops till it threw number six rod, but being a 'red 202' Holden motor with a central dissy it kept banging away for a few more oily seconds before expiry.
Unfortunately a large chunk of the rear of the crankcase parted company with the engine during this 'experiment', and when refitting another engine I found the bell-housing of the 4-speed gearbox was actually warped from the explosion and wouldn't mate with the new engine:( a costly time consuming exercise in stupidity by me.
Which goes to prove one can run an internal combustion engine without oil, but really it doesn't do them any favours and is tempting undue wear at least or a spun bearing and thrown rod if allowed to run on.
These days I just follow the manufacturers instructions , as posted above somewhere, that doesn't involve 'bumping' the starter.

To each their own though...Live and let live.:)
 

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I lost the scavenger line on a 52 Indian in the desert. It was a brazed connection and in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night all I could do was tie wire it in place and dump oil in the bag and run it until the machine told me it was empty. Over and over for maybe 50 miles.

Next morning it was seized up solid. Pulled the heads and soaked the barrels in pools of Marvel. Got it broke loose, slapped the top end back on, pulled the pump and fixed the line and rode it for two years. To each his own but for me, I am not the least bit scared to bump a wet broken in motor. Granted an old flathead is a less critcally toleranced critter than a current Freedom motor but these things aren't china dolls. When I start it cold it's the same as no oil in it. All but the residue is down in the bag. Matter of fact, if you shut it down hot and drain it and then fire it, you have more oil on the working parts than letting it sit all night. Not for long but long enough to keep me from losing sleep over it.
 

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so you bump your motor and it starts and you quick kill it. With no oil in it and you don't think your pistons look like this. It only take a second for this to happen
 

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