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This is not a Oil type Post
As I've mentioned in previous posts I bought a 2014 Cross Country last December.
I did an oil change with-in a month of owning it and I did 4000 miles (now at 26K) and decided it was time to change it again but this time, because I'm not the original owner and who knows what was done before I owned the bike, I decided to do what I call an oil flush.
I replaced the filter and oil with Rotella T5 rode it for about 100 miles and then drained the oil and put in new Rotella T5. I was amazed at how dark the oil got with just the 100 miles on it. It looks like the oil worked well at cleaning up the engine.
I've done this on some older cars I've owned with similar results but usually at 50K miles.

Again this is not an oil post to say what oil is better than another oil (use what you are comfortable using) I was just wondering if anyone else does this. It basically cost me an extra $19 dollars to do this so it certainly isn't expensive to do.

What's your opinion?
 

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I bet a full synthetic would have cleaned it even better.

You certainly can't hurt it by doing this and it probably helped. Technically the detergents in the oil is supposed to suspend the junk but anyone who has taken an engine apart can tell if it was run for any length of time with dirty black oil that was technically within the mileage change interval. An oil test by an outside company could tell more about if the oil was still good or not.

I've noticed if you change your oil before it gets too black; it will stay cleaner longer with the new oil. Do that every time and common sense says the oil and engine is happier. Again; oil tests may not confirm this though but an engine rebuilder can.

There are oil flush products one can use just before changing the oil to help this process and products that will add certain base metals that will help with the longevity of the engine (like 'Restore').

https://amazon.com/s?k=oil+flush&crid=P57TY8I2T3HY&sprefix=oil+flush,aps,219&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_9
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There are oil flush products one can use just before changing the oil to help this process and products that will add certain base metals that will help with the longevity of the engine (like 'Restore').

With wet clutches I'm a little afraid to add something like Restore. I thought about adding an ounce of Seafoam to the oil to help with the cleaning but just did the T5 by itself.

I was running T6 before but I wanted the 15W/40 of the T5 and so far I can't find it in the T6.

Again though... this is not an Oil Type Post... It's just about flushing the engine out of older deposits and possible some benefits of cleaning the clutch plates.
 

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The Liqui-Moly engine flush is one the best selling engine flushes. To use you simply pour into the engine, start it, and let idle it for 15 minutes then drain the oil. Probably would not get any into the clutch plates.

Just a thought. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=P57TY8I2T3HY&keywords=oil+flush&qid=1567639404&s=gateway&sprefix=oil+flush%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-1[/ame]
 

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This is not a Oil type Post

As I've mentioned in previous posts I bought a 2014 Cross Country last December.

I did an oil change with-in a month of owning it and I did 4000 miles (now at 26K) and decided it was time to change it again but this time, because I'm not the original owner and who knows what was done before I owned the bike, I decided to do what I call an oil flush.

I replaced the filter and oil with Rotella T5 rode it for about 100 miles and then drained the oil and put in new Rotella T5. I was amazed at how dark the oil got with just the 100 miles on it. It looks like the oil worked well at cleaning up the engine.

I've done this on some older cars I've owned with similar results but usually at 50K miles.



Again this is not an oil post to say what oil is better than another oil (use what you are comfortable using) I was just wondering if anyone else does this. It basically cost me an extra $19 dollars to do this so it certainly isn't expensive to do.



What's your opinion?
I do not like oil-flush, for me a real oil flush is fill with the oil your running, ride 1 hour and renew that oil ....

Oil gets black because your oilcooler is full with old oil, and all your oilchannels inside the block are full with oil, not because you used oilflush

Hope this helps


Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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<snip>Oil gets black because your oilcooler is full with old oil, and all your oilchannels inside the block are full with oil, not because you used oilflush <snip>
I agree with you.
 

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I do not like oil-flush, for me a real oil flush is fill with the oil your running, ride 1 hour and renew that oil ....

Oil gets black because your oilcooler is full with old oil, and all your oilchannels inside the block are full with oil, not because you used oilflush
A person can simply change their oil sooner. They could even do 1000 mile back to back oil changes.
 

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How has all my vehicles survived all these miles without dumping money and resources down the drain??

Some obsessions are just plain old silly in my opinion. Of course to each their own but really....
 

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With my 1990 Sportster with about 400,000 kms on it, every oil and filter change I disconnect the oil return line from the pump, quarter fill the oil tank, and run it until the returning oil is clean, then connect the return line and fill the oil tank fully.
 

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With my 1990 Sportster with about 400,000 kms on it, every oil and filter change I disconnect the oil return line from the pump, quarter fill the oil tank, and run it until the returning oil is clean, then connect the return line and fill the oil tank fully.
Converted that's 248,548 miles, now that's beyond impressive!!!

My old Shovel with 167,000 miles got regular oil changes, drain..fill..go.
 

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With my 1990 Sportster with about 400,000 kms on it, every oil and filter change I disconnect the oil return line from the pump, quarter fill the oil tank, and run it until the returning oil is clean, then connect the return line and fill the oil tank fully.
I never had a HD but if i read it right i would like to ask

Instead of "run it" maybe "crank it" untill you have clean oil ... There is no difference but i ensure you it is safer ?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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I never had a HD but if i read it right i would like to ask

Instead of "run it" maybe "crank it" untill you have clean oil ... There is no difference but i ensure you it is safer ?
Or just fill the external oil tank, run it till you get clean oil out of the return line, then top off the tank. That's the way I'd do it.

I change the trans fluid in my cars like that except I use an electric pump to pump the clean fluid in while the transmission pumps the old dirty fluid out. When I see clean fluid (usually around the 3 gallon mark) I stop everything and top off the trans fluid.

It's not a fluid flush but rather a full trans fluid exchange. Otherwise you might only drain and fill .5 to 1 gallon depending on make and model. Maybe less.
 

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I've never done an "oil flush" and probably never will. Just change the oil at the intervals the manufacturer suggests with the type of oil they suggest. Anything else is just something that makes you feel better but probably not necessary.
 

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Oil flushing was a thing back in the day of non detergent oil, like the '50s and '60s. Neighbor used to use kerosene to flush his engines when he bought a used car. Haven't heard much about it since the early '70s though. Showing my age here.
 

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When bought the 2011 XC with 21,600 Miles on it found out that the 20K Service had been done 10 months+ ago .. Changed the Oil ( Victory ) and Rode it Hard until 22,500 and Changed it again plan on doing again at 25,000 then will go back to every 5,000 Miles or 1 Year whichever comes first .. Even if don't make 5,000 Miles within a Year which is unlikely I still Rid eat least once a week main reason changed as soon as I got it is knew it had sat a lot in the past 10 months ..
 

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Oil Flush

I have changed oil early, and then early again, on bikes I have bought that came to me with old oil in them. It seems a prudent action. To me, if no damage has been done, the routine should prevent damage.

I would not flush with Liqui-Moly, although they claim to offer a Motorbike flush that is suitable for motorcycles with wet clutches - when used as directed. To me, the reward does not justify the risk. YMMV.

Like fishing, the best time to go riding is...when you can.
 

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Fill with kerosene, run for 2 minutes and drain.
just kidding. It's way too late and I should be in bed.
I do have to ask why would you install a new filter to filter out any contaminant? I'm sure the old filter is still functioning fine. Its not like it is allowing unfiltered oil threw. All you are doing is starting the new filter off with the contaminants you feel are in the motor.
 

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I think that is an old wives tale like not swimmng for an hour after you eat. From the days of knurling piston skirts and knurling valve guides.
 

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Who oil flushes their lawn mowers is the bigger question. :D
 
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