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Discussion Starter #1
We haven't had a good oil thread in a long time. Everyone groan. Good; now that we have that out of the way let's look at oil viscosity but leave the brand out of it since they are all pretty good these days as long as they have the correct ratings for your vehicle.

I put this in the lounge because it doesn't just pertain to bikes; our cars get used quite a bit too. Especially in the winter.

This guy makes a good case for using the right weight oil for the application such as summer, winter, hard driving/riding, towing, etc. So what weight oil should that guy with his wife and 2.5 kids towing a 75 foot toy hauler with his Pinto use? Comments?


One thing I noticed is he says oils today can last 10-15k miles but on the other hand he says to use the right oil for the application and time of year. Does this mean we should change our oil every May and October regardless of miles if we live in a cold climate?
 

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Last night i watched the whole clip and liked the information given, and tally with the oil analysis results i did when the bike was new

Vic oil does not last 8k kilometers

So i always change at 6k, coz at 7k it starts degrading ....

I never did oil analysis for other brands in my vic coz i got the results to make my decision

It is HOT here and never stay in 1 gear for 10 minutes ... Guess a shift fork will be on my bucket list to buy for stock

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Bob I've used various weights, brands, of oil in my cars and trucks and even made my own blend by going half regular oil and half synthetic of the "same brand" and all my cars, trucks have gone over 100,00 miles with no problems. I try to stick to Synthetic oil majority of the time. Whatever is on sale....Winter or summer doesn't matter to me. Now I have run a heavier weight oil in my V8 engine trucks in the summer a few times but now with the more powerful V6 engines I just stick to whats recommended. Right now i have synthetic in my bike but have thought about mixing oils in it too. As long as they meet the "standard" for our bikes. You know that JAS2 or what ever rating. Some say don't mix oils but I've never had a problem with it. I'm sure I'll catch some flack about my comments here and that's ok cause we all have an opinion of what works for us.
 

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@BBob skip to 6.40

Super interesting, air cooled car engine oil explained, need high zink ... Total racing oil,

https://youtu.be/99cJ5sHG0oI

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This break in test was posted on the VOG and thought it would be worth putting here too.

So which is best to break in a new motorcycle engine? Fast and hard or slow and easy?

https://youtu.be/xpoglovyy_8
 

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My Uncle used Quaker State 10w-30 in the 60's-70's in his Galaxy 500 and when the frame broke at 300,000 miles and the engine was still running strong it pretty much says "Name brand, wet clutch compatible (in our case), BAM good to go".

If that crap ran run an engine 300,000 miles most anything today will also do a great job.

Simply buy the correct weight.
 

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Shouldn't this be in the Religion & Politics thread? :D :D :D
 

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This break in test was posted on the VOG and thought it would be worth putting here too.

So which is best to break in a new motorcycle engine? Fast and hard or slow and easy?

https://youtu.be/xpoglovyy_8
Saw that. I didn't break my XCT engine in as they instructed. I didn't flog the hell out of it, I simply ran the bike like I would normally do. It currently has 47,000+ on it, and a set of cams, and seems to be doing just fine.
 

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Oil analysis always good on my pickup using the same oil it had leaving factory. I don't consider motorcraft oil anything special. Even 10k changes it's still in spec. Dealer put Valvoline in it when I had some engine work done. Short changed that after 1k it did not meet spec. Viscosity was way off. Possibly filled with wrong weight not sure.

I do intend to send a sample off when I get around to changing oil on the Vic. Will take a few years to have enough samples to compare. Analysis is cheap.
 

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I just ride it.
 

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This break in test was posted on the VOG and thought it would be worth putting here too.

So which is best to break in a new motorcycle engine? Fast and hard or slow and easy?

https://youtu.be/xpoglovyy_8
Lets say you buy a new bike, i would change the oil after 100 kilometer, then ride it exactly like you would normally ride it, then change the oil again at 500 km and never look back ....

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Saw that. I didn't break my XCT engine in as they instructed. I didn't flog the hell out of it, I simply ran the bike like I would normally do. It currently has 47,000+ on it, and a set of cams, and seems to be doing just fine.
I did mine right on the schedule in the owners manual. It has 120,400 miles on it. Aside from the usual 2 or 3 SE rallies, I plan to do the national at lake Placid in September, 900 miles each way. I did cams 40,000 miles ago.
 
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