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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have the correct part number for the thin sealing washers used when installing the shifter ratchet to eliminate some of the side play in the installed ratchet?
 

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Isn't it just simply the thinner drain plug washer?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure if the 2008 up ones are the thin or the thicker ones.
In some of the threads I read here people have tried to use drain plug washers to shim the ratchet asm only to find that the ones they were sold were too thick. That's the problem. Not sure if the thinner ones are some early version or a later version of the same part number or are a completely different part number.

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bump

Anyone know if the drain plug washers that Polaris is using to fill orders with now are the thin ones that will work to shim the shifter ratchet or the thick ones that are too thick to be use as shims for that ratchet assembly?
 

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I'm confused what you are shimming but have you tried a hardware store?
A real hardware store not Lowe's and Home Depot.
 

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I'm confused what you are shimming but have you tried a hardware store?
A real hardware store not Lowe's and Home Depot.
In a nutshell, a drain plug crush washer can be used to eliminate side to side play on the shift shaft. My memory is failing me this evening, so I cannot say specifically where the washer goes.
 

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In a nutshell, a drain plug crush washer can be used to eliminate side to side play on the shift shaft. My memory is failing me this evening, so I cannot say specifically where the washer goes.
The annoying sloppy shift lever? I'd be interested in the fix for that but I have gotten used to it.
 

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The annoying sloppy shift lever? I'd be interested in the fix for that but I have gotten used to it.
Buywitchdoctors.com has a set of brass bushings that replaced the plastic bushings on the shift lever. The crush washer is for side to side movement of the shaft itself.
 

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In a nutshell, a drain plug crush washer can be used to eliminate side to side play on the shift shaft. My memory is failing me this evening, so I cannot say specifically where the washer goes.
The annoying sloppy shift lever? I'd be interested in the fix for that but I have gotten used to it.
You can get those brash bushings all over ebay from China for cheap. Many have with no issues.

I have a set, but here's why I went a different route to correct. The original bushings are nylon which was a good choice. They will not wear out the way the brass bushings will. Vic just should have done a better job on tolerances. What I did instead was put a steel washer on the inside side of the shifter arm. The only issue is the bolt is short of bottoming out then as it did originally so I put blue thread locker on it to keep the bolt from turning deeper and causing the arm to bind. I did this 5000 miles ago and have zero binding. I do a quick check on shifter arm movement during my pre inspection and it hasn't moved. Shifter feels more positive, the washer is the diameter of the arm so it looks like its the way it should have been.
 

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The washer is to take up the slack or play of the shift ratchet shaft. You have to take the primary cover off and the washer goes on the shifter shaft between the E-clip and the primary housing. I used a 'normal' washer but it was too thick and I didn't have any crush washers so I ended up sanding it down about 1/2 way.
 

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Thick and thin are relative terms and in this case the difference is critical to the modification. It would be nice if one of the people who installs one that works would actually measure it and post the thickness that worked for them. Mechanical differences in the bikes might mean someones "thin" ones still might be too thick to work but at least those looking for it would have a starting point.
 

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Agreed. I didn't measure it. It was a 'trial and error' session. Sand, clean, install, test, remove, sand, etc...
 

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You can get those brash bushings all over ebay from China for cheap. Many have with no issues.

I have a set, but here's why I went a different route to correct. The original bushings are nylon which was a good choice. They will not wear out the way the brass bushings will. Vic just should have done a better job on tolerances. What I did instead was put a steel washer on the inside side of the shifter arm. The only issue is the bolt is short of bottoming out then as it did originally so I put blue thread locker on it to keep the bolt from turning deeper and causing the arm to bind. I did this 5000 miles ago and have zero binding. I do a quick check on shifter arm movement during my pre inspection and it hasn't moved. Shifter feels more positive, the washer is the diameter of the arm so it looks like its the way it should have been.
The plastic bushings didn't need replacing on my 2012 highball, but they didn't last 500 miles on my 2015 XC. I modified the bolt on a lathe so it doesn't squeeze the bushings. Blue loctite'd that SOB in place, no issues since.
 

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You can get those brash bushings all over ebay from China for cheap. Many have with no issues.

I have a set, but here's why I went a different route to correct. The original bushings are nylon which was a good choice. They will not wear out the way the brass bushings will. Vic just should have done a better job on tolerances. What I did instead was put a steel washer on the inside side of the shifter arm. The only issue is the bolt is short of bottoming out then as it did originally so I put blue thread locker on it to keep the bolt from turning deeper and causing the arm to bind. I did this 5000 miles ago and have zero binding. I do a quick check on shifter arm movement during my pre inspection and it hasn't moved. Shifter feels more positive, the washer is the diameter of the arm so it looks like its the way it should have been.
The plastic bushings didn't need replacing on my 2012 highball, but they didn't last 500 miles on my 2015 XC. I modified the bolt on a lathe so it doesn't squeeze the bushings. Blue loctite'd that SOB in place, no issues since.
Wow. Was the stock bolt changed to a shorter one at some point? Mine was so long that bottomed out, my shifter arm weebled and wobbled all over the place until I added my washer. No squeezing possibility at all.

PS- When I bought the bike last year new, I pointed that out to service manager. He said "oh its designed that way". I said "oh..badly designed then". He said nothing.
 

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Wow. Was the stock bolt changed to a shorter one at some point? Mine was so long that bottomed out, my shifter arm weebled and wobbled all over the place until I added my washer. No squeezing possibility at all.

PS- When I bought the bike last year new, I pointed that out to service manager. He said "oh its designed that way". I said "oh..badly designed then". He said nothing.
In theory (on my current setup), the shifter arm can move side to side, on the bolt, .015. It bottoms out on the mount, but does not squeeze the bushings. If the brass ones wear out, I have a myriad of materials to try (it comes in handy being a machinist sometimes :laugh)
 
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