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Discussion Starter #1
I just getting ready to install my autotune unit AT-300 tonight and have watched as many videos as I can find for info. One thing no one touched on is, do you turn on Auto tune, then unplug your computer, ride, come home or pull over, keep engine on, plug back in computer, check trims and accept?

Does the computer need to stay plugged into the PCV while auto tuning? When you come back from your tune ride, do you have to keep the motor running till you accept the trims or will you loss the tune session if you turn off the motor?
 

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Computer used to initiate autotune and to input your numbers for the target af ratios. Unplug and go for your ride. Come back plug computer back in...with the bike on you accept trims. Everything is done with the bike on. Not in gear but idleing. Its a very difficult system to use but is the best option out there imho.
 

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Computer used to initiate autotune and to input your numbers for the target af ratios. Unplug and go for your ride. Come back plug computer back in...with the bike on you accept trims. Everything is done with the bike on. Not in gear but idleing. Its a very difficult system to use but is the best option out there imho.
I wouldn't say difficult to use, but the thing that gets me is why people say either a dyno tune OR autotune. I would think they would work well in conjunction since who knows what one particular bike likes for AFR/timing without a dyno
 

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Computer used to initiate autotune and to input your numbers for the target af ratios. Unplug and go for your ride. Come back plug computer back in...with the bike on you accept trims. Everything is done with the bike on. Not in gear but idleing. Its a very difficult system to use but is the best option out there imho.

no, bike does not need to be on or running to setup or accept trims, only time it would need to be on is if you were trying to say set your idle af while inputting settings into your fuel map, auto tune is pretty easy to use
 

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Bike does need to be "on" to accept trims. Not running, but does need to be on
 

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Your bike needs to be running to check the wideband sensors...any change in fueling should be done on a warm bike. Customer support also stated there may be instances of maps not sending properly with a bike not running. I understand it technically just changing values. I was told to have the bike idleing so i do...never a problem. Is the system easy to use yes...is it something the average person with no knowledge of what is going on should do? Absolutely not. There is a learning curve. Just look at how many threads there are about a/f ratio setup. You owe it to your bike to read and understand.
 

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Bike does need to be "on" to accept trims. Not running, but does need to be on

NO IT DOES NOT!!!!! plug in to your laptop, check trims, accept trims, save map, send map, the key doesnt need to be in the damn bike even!!!
 

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Lol, No bike does not need to be "on" to work with or accept trims, the PCV will turn on once you plug it in to your CP/laptop.
To answer the OP's question, yes you can shut the bike off and the trims will be kept on memory until you accept them. I have used the PCV with AT since it came out (09) and have not heard or read that the key needs to be on, once the PCV has been powered up by your computer there is absolutely no need for the key to be on...
 

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Lol, No bike does not need to be "on" to work with or accept trims, the PCV will turn on once you plug it in to your CP/laptop.
To answer the OP's question, yes you can shut the bike off and the trims will be kept on memory until you accept them. I have used the PCV with AT since it came out (09) and have not heard or read that the key needs to be on, once the PCV has been powered up by your computer there is absolutely no need for the key to be on...

thank you sir!!
 

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NO IT DOES NOT!!!!! plug in to your laptop, check trims, accept trims, save map, send map, the key doesnt need to be in the damn bike even!!!
Shrug.... I could be wrong as it's been over a year since I tinkered with it. Could have sworn I had to have my key/kill switch on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I installed my AT-300 last night everything liked up and checked out. Took the bike for the initial run this morning. Bike was running amazingly well and super strong in all areas of the RPM's. About 30 miles or so into the ride, It started to spudder a bit and continued to spudder and got worse as time went on. First thing I thought was I did not tighten down the new wide band O2 sensors and they backed off. Checked um and they seem fine. Anyone have any ideas? possible ground or 12v connector?
_________
 

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So I installed my AT-300 last night everything liked up and checked out. Took the bike for the initial run this morning. Bike was running amazingly well and super strong in all areas of the RPM's. About 30 miles or so into the ride, It started to spudder a bit and continued to spudder and got worse as time went on. First thing I thought was I did not tighten down the new wide band O2 sensors and they backed off. Checked um and they seem fine. Anyone have any ideas? possible ground or 12v connector?
_________
Plug it in and show us the trims it has done. I know I had this issue when I had my cams installed. The shop messed up and reversed the O2 sensor's wires. It ran great for a bit and then, as the trims started taking place, it went to hell quick.

The front O2 was being "seen" as running rich, so it pulled fuel from it which only leaned out the rear cylinder and vice versa until it no longer would fire.
 
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