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Discussion Starter #1
Progression of times vs modifications done, if anyone is curious....
The bike weighs 720 lbs wet, I weigh 220. Bike is run with saddlebags on, full of gas, 40 PSI in the rear tire...basically just as I ride it every day with no changes for the track. I do not do a burnout, I ride around the water box and stage up. The idea is to know what it will do right-here-right-now, as it sits, on any given day, not some bullsh!t you read in a magazine with a pro rider who weighs 130 lbs... 1/2 gallon of fuel in the bike... front end strapped down... 25 psi in the rear tire... rear shock as stiff as it gets... and corrected times listed.



Victory long drag pipes, stock airbox well ventilatied with a drill bit, flat panel K&N air filter, VFC II: 12.77 1/4 mile.

SlashNess (RPW Slash) exhaust, S&S airbox, VFC II, 31 tooth front pulley: 12.501 1/4 mile.

2mm overbore (104"), port clean up, .495 cams, SlashNess pipes, S&S airbox, PC III: 11.96 1/4 mile.

S&S stroker added (110"), VM-1 HP cams, Torque Tubes airbox, Bassani 2-1 short pipe: 11.63 1/4 mile.

Something to keep in mind: The more power you make, the harder it is to launch the bike. The calculator says this bike will run 11.41... but it's not set up for drag racing... and I can't get to full throttle in 1st gear until around the 60' clock because it's VIOLENT. With more practice and cooler weather, I think I can break into the high 11.50s.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
so how much mooola does it cost for each stage that you have done? And what is the total cost all together so far?
#1: Exterior bolt-on mods (98 HP/110 ft-lbs), Under $2,000.00
RPW Thor pipe: $532
TTI airbox: $525
PC-III $379
31 tooth front pulley: $300
Dyno tune: $250

#2: 104" or 107" big bore, (120/130) #1 above PLUS:
Resleeve jugs, 11:1 pistons, headwork, cams/springs/retainers, clutch, and primary plate... ALL PARTS, LABOR, BREAK-IN, AND DYNO TUNING INCLUDED (Drop off the bike and pick it up when it's done) would cost you around $3,650.00.

#3: Stroker/Big bore (132/142) #1 above PLUS:
Rev limiter to 6700 rpm, stroker crank/rods/11:1 pistons, big bore kit, headwork, cams/springs/retainers, balanced and blueprinted, improved oiling, clutch upgrade, and primary plate. ALL PARTS, LABOR, BREAK-IN, AND DYNO TUNING INCLUDED (Drop off the bike and pick it up when it's done) would cost you around $5,500.00.

You could duplicate what I have now for $7,500.00 if you started with a bone stock 100" bike.
When I did this there was little information available as to what pipes are best, what cams are best, there was no TTI... let's just say there was a learning curve... I've had 4 sets of pipes, 3 airboxes, 2 fuel controllers, 2 pairs of cams, built the engine twice, and replaced the entire transmission too. Doing it the hard way cost me in a big way!!! The saving grace is that I only paid 10 grand for the bike when I bought it.

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Discussion Starter #7
When this all started way back in 2007, I saw a graph for a 104 on Lloyd's website. It made 112/120 and the torque curve was impressive. Exactly what I wanted. My friend Joe and I had several conversations about how we didn't really want 130 HP and didn't want to spend a whole lot of money to get power we couldn't really use....

Took the bike to Lloyd's. He said my exhaust sucked and would hold it back, but I didn't want to buy ANOTHER pipe. The bike left there making 118/122... crappy pipes and all... Gotta love Lloyd.

All that talk of what we didn't want? How it would be overkill? Both Joe and I are getting a re-tune this spring for some winter changes, then a trip to the track for some time on the asphalt dyno... should be interesting.
 
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