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Discussion Starter #1
All right guys now that I got my CC what are some of the issues and stuff that need attention? What are the best upgrades? Can it be lowered without issues? Give me info guys!

I've always used Royal Purple oil and a wix filter in my 07 Hammer. Are the filters the same and any issues with going to Royal Purple after the first 500 miles? Are there any things that should keep me from doing my own 500 mile service? I am extremely mechanically oriented.

looking at exhaust clips on youtube I thought the RC Components mufflers rocked! any input on exhaust?

Just feed me guys :)
 

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First off Archie, congrats on a very wise selection of bikes. Secondly; What are the issues when it comes to a Victory? Here they are:___________________. There you have it. Most problems arise form poor or no maintenance of things that should be maintained, like cleaning and lubing the clutch cable ends. That prevents their breaking. Never lube the cable itself, its coated with a nylon material and some lubes will eat it. Also frequently check the clutch adjustment.
Is that purple oil JASO-MA rated? If not, don't use it. Many here use Rotella T-6 a full syn that's now JASO-MA2 rated and if bought right can cost under $20/gallon. Yes, you can do your own 500 mile service if you document everything is done that a shop would have done. Again, if you bought right, you had the dealer include that in the purchase.
If I were to recommend just one mod, it would be the Lloydz adjustable timing wheel. If you're doing pipes, then do the Lloydz air filter too.
The front brakes can benefit from upgrading to EBC HH pads. A dramatic improvement. I prefer GG pads in the read for better control back there. A lot less grabby.
Why do you want to lower a wonderfully handling bike and limit its lean angle? You don't live in Florida. Instead, think about a lower saddle, either go to a saddle customizer (my preference) or buy the Vic low saddle. I know someone who has one she doesn't need.
I hope this helps.
 

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I will add to adjust your drive belt after you've given it a good flogging to bed it in.
There's whole threads on such and I won't go into it here.
Except to say keep it simple.
Congratulations on your purchase!
Victory--We Ride!
 

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No other issues then these darn tires wearing out, ha,

Do you still have your hammer? I read royal purple is a very good oil, agreed with @RICZ for the compatible rating, if it is then go ahead... Most of us do our own 500 or any service coz it is the details that counts...

Any pictures of your hammer and CC?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I picked her up on Tuesday because it was the only day the whole week that it was not supposed to rain so I put 200 miles on her the first day and now I anxiously await for the weather to break so I can put more on her. Here she is next to her sister on the first day at home :)


at the dealership - had the sold sticker with my name on it! I was so excited and nervous. First brand new vehicle that I've ever purchased. Always said there was no way I could justify it lol. so much for that.



I always used Rotella in my numerous Hondas that I have had.... If members have no issues and recommend it in our Vics then I just may go that route. It can be had for cheap and local.

RICZ: Thanks for the great info! as far as lowering it is just for visual appeal, I'm 6'2 and have no issues with ride height.
 

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RICZ: Thanks for the great info! as far as lowering it is just for visual appeal, I'm 6'2 and have no issues with ride height.
Nice bike dude, love the blacked out on gray look.

As for lowering
Just saying:grin
 

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New Owner Pointers

- Tank:

If you ever remove the tank, careful not to break the plastic nipple in the back, and try not to let the rubber washers back there fall into black holes.

- Side Covers:

Make sure they're well seated. And maybe periodically buy new grommets. And I added heat-shrink to the forward/upper barb on each side; not my idea (I read about it here or on the other board), but it works great (pic in my gallery). And I relocated the rear-shock Schrader valve, so I don't have to mess with the right side cover.

- Clutch Cable:

Grease the ball ends with every oil change.

- Passenger Boards:

If the mounts are similar to the XCT, keep an eye on the circlip that holds the bolt/pin in place.

- Saddlebags:

If they still use dzus fasteners, you might want to replace them with nuts and bolts.

- Saddlebag Latch:

Check the right side for wear. If it appears, bend the hoop or add a washer underneath the front latch-fastener bolt.

- Battery Bolts:

Tighten them periodically. Even after adding toothed washers, and blue loctite (bottom half) and dielectric grease (top half), mine still came loose last year.

- Fork Guards:

You'll probably break them at some point, cleaning the bike. I have metal ones now, and had them painted by Goody (and gave away my plastic ones, before actually breaking either one).

- Plug Wires:

I've read that they're easy to separate, so heads up if you ever mess with them. When I went to iridium plugs, I had also ordered new wires, figuring that I might wreck the old ones, taking them off.

- Lower Pods:

If you had an XCT, we could discuss keeping the lowers in place on the crash guards. But you don't, so I won't.

I think that's it for the common "gotchas."

- Oil:

I swear, I'm not trying to start an oil thread, and please don't let this degenerate into one. But the specific question was asked, so I'll comment: I've been using "Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W-40 High Performance Synthetic Motorcycle Oil" about every 5,000 miles since about 15,000 miles -- that's four of those oil changes now -- and haven't had a problem. And I sent two of those old oil samples to Blackstone Labs, to make me feel better. Whether that oil is better than anything else, I have no idea ... but I would assert that it's at least okay. (I use K&N 198 filters, only because I like the 17mm nut on the end of them.)

Hope some of this is useful. I'll let everyone else discuss exhaust and engine mods -- not my field.

[Edit: forgot some:]

- Gas Gauge:

The gauge is non-linear, picking up steam as the tank empties. The Low Fuel warning comes on about as the gauge hits bottom, at which point you have 40 or 50 miles left (verified by my running out of gas once). Get over it, and get used to it.

- Gas Cap:

Most of us seem to have better luck filling from the left side of the bike. Feel free to experiment, and watch out for slop-overs (depending on nozzle speed).

- Shifter:

I found that the return-throw on the shifter required more up-travel than I was used to; make sure you bring your foot up. And if you're used to the other American V-Twin brand, shift at higher revs. And if you're used to a bike that "snicks" instead of "thunks," use more oomph in shifting, and maybe pre-load it. And maybe buy a heel-shifter. And certainly give it some gas before shifting to 2nd from a stop, or the automatic neutral finder will find neutral if you try that at walking speed.
 

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Bill has added some good info to which I will add a few notes as the voice of experience, some not-so-good.
TANK
When removing the tank, its best to have it as empty as possible as its a bear to carry. The manual sez to disconnect the fuel line at the lower end, but that led to disaster for me. I find it best to lift the tank and disconnect the fuel line from the pump/filter nipple. Disconnecting it from below led to breaking that nipple. If you ever do that, I have a repair for that.
Like Bill said, place a rag in the frame hole aft of the tank so the rubber grommets don't fall into it, and they will fall.
PLUG WIRES
Apply dielectric grease to the plug porcelains and the coil nipples for easier removal, they tend to glue themselves there. After hose washing, immediately blow the water out of the plug recesses to prevent corrosion. I use a leaf blower.
SHIFTING
Adjust the shifter down to when your boot slides under it, all the slack is taken up. I agree with Bill, preload the shifter - that is, apply some upward pressure so that when you pull in the clutch, you'll get smoother and quieter shifts.
GAS CAP
Unlike Bill, I find it easier to fuel from the right side with the bars turned to the left. This way, I can see what's happening.
I'm not trying to discredit anything Bill said, its all good, but as I tell my wife; There's more than one way to garden. (in-joke)
 

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I think you should use oem oil till you get 1500 miles on it before switching. That way you know everything is seated in good.
I hope you have good aventures on your new bike
 

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I picked her up on Tuesday because it was the only day the whole week that it was not supposed to rain so I put 200 miles on her the first day and now I anxiously await for the weather to break so I can put more on her. Here she is next to her sister on the first day at home :)


at the dealership - had the sold sticker with my name on it! I was so excited and nervous. First brand new vehicle that I've ever purchased. Always said there was no way I could justify it lol. so much for that.



I always used Rotella in my numerous Hondas that I have had.... If members have no issues and recommend it in our Vics then I just may go that route. It can be had for cheap and local.

RICZ: Thanks for the great info! as far as lowering it is just for visual appeal, I'm 6'2 and have no issues with ride height.
I just picked up the same bike a few weeks ago, do the 1/4 turn throttle ring, makes a big difference on how the bike performs, I still haven't made up my mind on what exhaust I want but I did drill the back of the stock exhaust and gave it a little more sound and added the tips. And don't forget to order the license plate bracket from RICZ..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok I checked the saddlebags and they are already bolts so that is ok, the latch was already showing a little wear so I washered it.

I ordered a Vic oil change kit from Amazon this morning and with 2 day shipping I will have it on Saturday to do the 500 mile change. Good thing since I'm at 300 right now and with clear sunny skies this weekend I'll surely put another 200+ on her.

The 1/4 turn ring will be something that will have to be done soon for sure.
 

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The Royal Purple is rated JASO-MA2 and comes in 10w-30, 10w-40 and 20w-50 and since the 2016 and 2017 owners manual now says this:
"Polaris recommends the use of only VICTORY Semi-Synthetic 20W-40 oil, Synthetic 15W-
60 oil or an equivalent oil designed for use with wet clutches (such as those with a JASO MA
rating)."

You are probably good.

Hell I might just get some of the 20w-50 myself.
 

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witchdoctor has all kinds of good videos
VJ: Yep, I elongated that hoop hole on my XCT, ala Witchdoctor's, but later learned about what I think is a simpler fix. @Zimbob, on the other forum, posted a fix about three years ago, which seems easier, and a lot of folks say it works fine. In @Zimbob's words:

"The washer goes between the the latch and the bag where the latch mounts. It goes on the front bolt to "lean" the latch to the rear and away from where it catches."
 

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I have performed the washer mod, and it worked perfectly for me. Real positive lockup, and it only takes a couple of minutes per side.
 

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As was shared by a member (of the nameless place) named garbear and shared for the good of all humanity (or at least fellow Vic owners with hard bags :D)

"The photo below is from what was posted. The washer appears to be about the same thickness of the "washer" portion of the one piece bolt that holds down the latch.

This is what was posted back on Sept 30:

No drilling, machining, filing. No dropped small hex head screws or backing nuts. No need to remove the saddlebag.

Wipe clean the top portion of the hoop where some wear is visible. Wipe clean the worn areas of the latch. Remove the front bolt that holds the latch assembly in place. Back off the rear bolt a bit. Use a flat machine washer that fits the bolt shaft diameter and place it between the saddlebag and latch assembly. Tighten both bolts."
 

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Discussion Starter #17
exactly what I did. Can't get any more simple and not changing anything like wallowing out holes. I will keep an eye on it now for future wear.
 

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Oil

Rotella T-6 been using it for quiet sometime now. Also used the Amsoil motorcycle oil, good stuff. The lifters seem quieter with the T-6. DO NOT overfill your oil, it can(will!) make your clutch slip. One of my friends switched to synthetic on his V-Star, clutch slipped. He had tried the Amsoil, he was cussing it because his clutch slipped. It was not the oils doing. Told him to check the oil level, he did. Well he let his girl help him do the oil change. She had dumped in all oil he had sitting there by the bike. Oil was waaaaaaaaay overfull. He went ahead and dumped it all out and went back to Yamalube. ........Enjoy the new ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Lifters

The only complaint that I can even think that I have about my Vics are the noisy ass lifters, wish the motor was more quiet for sure so I will keep that thought in mind if I give Rotella a try.

Good point about clutch slippage also if over filled.
 

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The only complaint that I can even think that I have about my Vics are the noisy ass lifters, wish the motor was more quiet for sure so I will keep that thought in mind if I give Rotella a try.

Good point about clutch slippage also if over filled.
Me, I'm a geezer and don't hear so well (hearing aids off the bike, custom ear plugs on), so I wouldn't know a noisy lifter unless it bit me in the ass.

My only complaint is about the heat the engine gives off, especially on a hot day and in stop-and-go traffic. I suppose it comes with the territory of bikes that have huge engines that are not water-cooled. I've been on hotter Harleys, and test-rode a Buell Ulysses (H-D engine) on a really hot day at Americade one year; the bike was a definite blast to ride, but I regretted not wearing a Nomex suit, especially on my right leg.

OTOH, nice not to have coolant changes as part of the maintenance tasks.
 
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