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Discussion Starter #1
I have taken my wheels off and want to polish them up to a mirror finish. I am using the Meguiars and Mothers metal polish, along with the foam cone on the drill. They are polishing up from a dulls finish to a mirrow in places, but some places have a cloudy appearance to it. What is your suggestion to getting these areas to shine ? I have laid into them and they remain cloudy.

Later
 

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I hate the polished wheels, they're a pain to keep clean and shiny. I would love to have them chromed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I rear this over on the Vette Forum

"Personally, I've never clear coated polished aluminum and I never will. It takes a little away from the character/glow of perfectly polished metal.

If you're going to drive the car on rainy days the finish will deterorate over time, but for the simple maintenance just get a Mothers Powerball and a drill. Hit the wheels once every 2-3 months and they'll stay pristine.

If the car never sees rain you can go two years without retouching"

If in fact these are clear coated ( they turn the buffing wheel black when I polish them ) - then I will strip them

Should I remove the tires ? Anyone done theirs ?

LAter
 

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Reason why they clear coat Aluminum is to keep them from turning black. Manufactures polish then clear coat the wheel . Chroming aluminum does not last long, if the surface is not perfect it will start to pit under the chrome and flake off. I have had several wheels do this already. Big thing 10 years ago but you don't see it to much anymore. The wheels do not last more than 2-3 years before then start to flake. I have a set of Foose wheels now I take off every fall that I have on my car. Polish and wax them, then get them out in the spring. I have had them 4 years now. Knock on wood they have not pitted yet. But I payed big bucks for them. My wives truck wheels from American did not last 2 years. Just past the warranty. Back to the polish part. Aluminum looks great but it takes a lot of work all the time to keep them clean. One rain drop starts the tarnishing project to the finish. Just my 2 cents..:crzy: And it would be easier to do if you take the tires off..I would if I was doing it..
 

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There is no clear coat on my 2012 Jackpot wheels.

I also know what Tachdriver is talking about with the dull and shiny areas... my wheels do the same.

Most comes up really shiny with a bit of elbow grease but there is patches that look like its smeared from shiny to cloudy.

I've tried every known cleaner/polish ... Mothers ally polish, Meguiars mag and ally polish, Mothers Billet Polish ($42 a jar), Autosol... Purple Metal polish... list goes on.

I believe its the quality of the wheel alloy being less than ideal. Maybe they use some recycled ally in the blend? Maybe the forming process affects the surface?

My next trial is to sand one of the cloudy areas in a small test area... with 1500-2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Then buff!

At the moment I just wash wheels with regular rountine wash of the bike then dry with my motorcycle dryer... I then polish wheels with Meguiars Tech 2.0 wax. This is just to protect the shine already there til I get to sanding test. Keeps brake dust from corroding wheel.

I have changed my pads to Lyndall Z's so dust is minimal compared to stock pads and braking is improved over stock.

Mags
 

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I've had great success with Speedy's All Metal Polish. I use very little of the polish and only use microfiber towels to apply and wipe the residue off. The polish makes the wheels look like chrome and leaves a protective wax on the metal so that the water beads up and the brake dust easily wipes off. I polish my wheels about 4 times a year and I ride all year long. It's great for chrome too.
 

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I polished all the aluminum parts on mt VTX.. Took allot of sanding and polishing with black, brown, then white rouge. All parts looked like chrome when I was done except the wheels.. They looked really good but never achieved the appearance the other parts did. I think it must be a difference in the grade of aluminum .


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Take a Dime out of your pocket and rub it on the wheel if it doesn't scratch its clear coated. Gibson is righ
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There is NO clearcoat on my wheels - I applied a heavy coat of Aircraft stripper to them today. Let sit for 30 min and washed it off. No bubbling, no lifting, no clear coat. Then to make damn sure, I put a wet rag of Laquer thinner on one spot and it never peeled anything off. The cloudy spots are still there. They shine, but cloudy in spots.

I will not give up.....maybe some sanding next.

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If you don't mind post a photo of what wheel looks like now.
You could start with some wet 200 sandpaper. Put some drops of dish soap into warm water and sand the wheel. The dish soap prevents build up on the sand paper. Now use some 1500 sandpaper. You can buy the sand paper at hardware store. You want sandpaper that is for wet sanding its black in color.
Have you looked on youtube for how to polish
 

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When I bought this bike I thought the wheels were chrome they were so highly polished. Their is no clear coat on them. Seems that if they were polished by man when new that they would polish up again by owner.
If you start off with a grit as course as 200 you will destroy them and never get the 200 marks out unless you have them profesionaly re done.
Sorry V Johnny but their is so much misinformation on these sites someone could ruin their wheels. Did you mean 2000 grit?
 

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Look at Caswellplating.com. Lots if good info on polishing all kinds of metal. I used 400 grit on the Honda because of the mill marks.. Followed by 600. Once I had it smooth with the 600 I went to black compound with a sewen Cotten wheel followed by brown and finished with white rouge.. If you wheels are smooth and once had a sheen then you might just use white rouge.. If they look like they need some cutting use brown then white..


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