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Discussion Starter #1
got the living room window trimmed on my cross roads so i can
turn the front wheel after putting on the forged crash bars. had to notch each side. got it all trimmed but would like to smooth the
cut edge a little more. what do you use, real fine sand paper or
something special ? just want to look like the rest of the windshield
edge. was going to have my glass guy do it, but it came out well enough that i would like to finish it. any help appreciated.--irv
 

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Irv, I can't help with the polishing, but I put a strip of the plastic "chrome looking" trim (purchased at any auto parts store) around the edge of mine and think it looks awesome. I like the looks and it gives me a distinguishable edge to my glass. Probably my favorite...and least expensive mod.
 

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Best way for the amature is to file smooth then use progressivly finer sandpaper and finish with something like a Novus plastic polish.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Polish-Plastic-Scratch-Remover/dp/B000J41VDM[/ame]
The other methods I used when fabricating in polycarbonate & acrylic were flame & chemical polishing but it takes some finese not to screw up the piece your working on-if you saved the piece you cut off you could practice these methods with a torch or some Weld-On #3 liquid from a glass shop and you'll see how tricky it can be.
 

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got the living room window trimmed on my cross roads so i can
turn the front wheel after putting on the forged crash bars. had to notch each side. got it all trimmed but would like to smooth the
cut edge a little more. what do you use, real fine sand paper or
something special ? just want to look like the rest of the windshield
edge. was going to have my glass guy do it, but it came out well enough that i would like to finish it. any help appreciated.--irv
Irv - Here's what you do. First determine if your windshield is acrylic or polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is more flexable than acrylic.

Either way, the first step would be to sand the edge with fine sand paper. If it's polycarbonate it has to be buffed with some rouge and a cloth wheel. If it's acrylic, you can do it with a torch. I'd recommend getting some scrap pieces of acrylic to practice on. Basically, you can use a propane torch(although a hydrogen/oxygen mix works better). Make several passes with the torch over the length of the edge. The faster you go, the more passes it will take, but it is better to go too fast than too slow and start burning things.
 

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I've always used a torch to finish off edges of plastic, but I would be hesitant to torch a windscreen, that would be an expensive boo boo!!
 

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Try tricking a few birds into crashing landing into it...

Seriously I've heard about the torch trick too and I think a member may have posted on here that it worked for him after trimming off part of his windshield.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
hey ammo, maybe i can be in a windex commercial. thanks for all the help guys. its a 7 jurock shield. ill dig a piece out and try the torch.[its acrylic]
used a rotozip to cut and then a straight line sander with 80 grit
to clear up all the boo boos. cant cut a straight line with that tool!
ill try some 600 and 1000 grit. i did sacrifice a cee baileys shield to proto-
type before transferring to the good pane. tried it on the road sun day before
cutting on the good one.thanks ammo for the buffeting info on the forged bars.
didnt really notice much difference over the the other bars. want to cut an inch
or so off the top later. pics below. dont know if they will show well.
also thank you michael[sgtfixit] for the bars. my dealer had the chrome tops in
stock and was glad to get rid of them.

update-tried the torch on a discarded piece. softens and takes the scratches
away .will try the shield later. very cool! i can always count on the people
here for the bestknoledge and info[bowing down]--irv
 

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Looks good Irv! After my wreck I went from the medium shield to the large (3" taller) and am thinking about taking 1.5" off the top. Knowing that a rotozip will do the trick I'll be making some noise in the garage this weekend if mother nature throws more snow here instead of sunshine!
 

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I've cut down several windshields with just a jigsaw with a fine blade. put a couple layers of masking tape on each side and draw your guide line on it. all you need to polish the edge is a file and coarse to fine sandpaper. use a block behind the sandpaper to keep the edge sharp.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks good Irv! After my wreck I went from the medium shield to the large (3" taller) and am thinking about taking 1.5" off the top. Knowing that a rotozip will do the trick I'll be making some noise in the garage this weekend if mother nature throws more snow here instead of sunshine!
for cutting the top the jigsaw method sounds better.you dont want to
see my after rotozip pics. its not the best for cutting a good line.
couldnt have been the operator. thank God for my air file!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
ammo, if you cut the top i think the jigsaw w/a fine blade
would be the ticket.i clamped my shield down flat top and
bottom with very long vice grips . i used a thick piece of
plywood covered with towels underneath my shield. have yet
to cut the top. you can clamp it flat. just take your time.

also--the torch tip really works nice. dont overheat
--irv
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I've cut a few windshields and wiping the edge with a little acetone on a rag will make the edge look like new.
i'm assuming lacquer thinner or urethane reducer might work too?
gonna walk to the paint room and try the spare piece. already
torched it.
hmm--didnt soften it at all.
 

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I have done quite a bit of work with plex, a jig saw works, but if you have the time & tools the best way is to rough cut it with a jigsaw, then finish with a router & a template. (either a flush trimming bit, running the bearing against the template, or a collet guide against the template). You can also finish off the edge sanding it smooth then spraying it with clear lacquer too, but that method prolly won't hold up over the years.
 
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