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Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks ago I took a trip up to Lloyds and had him install a PCV and dyno tune it. I got to say I'm kind of disappointed with the results. I have Hacker Rippers on my bike and was using his AMS fuel controller prior to having the PCV installed. My bike seems to pull a little stronger in the mid range but doesn't seem to have the snap it had prior and seems to have lost some top end. That is minor and I can live with it. But whats making me nuts is my bike pops like mad now on deceleration even if I don't close the throttle all the way. I had some poping before when I put my pipes on but was able to get rid of 95% of it by playing with my fuel controller and installing Lloyds air control. I'm considering playing with the 2% fields in the PC to see if I can get it to run a little better when the throttle is just open a crack. Also when I look at the map it doesnt make alot of sense because at low throttle opening he's got fuel added and at the higher throttle positions it's subtracting fuel. Seems to me that it would be the opposite. Am I misunderstanding something + adds fuel - subtracts it right
 

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Decel popping is due to lean conditions. If you have the IAV installed, try playing with that a bit before playing with the 2% column. As for top end, see if you have some timing advance added in your pcv in the upper throttle and rpm range.

Oops, just noticed you have the timing gear installed. Never mind about the advance timing then in the pcv unless you have already some added in the table, you may want to zero out that out then.
 

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A few weeks ago I took a trip up to Lloyds and had him install a PCV and dyno tune it. I got to say I'm kind of disappointed with the results. I have Hacker Rippers on my bike and was using his AMS fuel controller prior to having the PCV installed. My bike seems to pull a little stronger in the mid range but doesn't seem to have the snap it had prior and seems to have lost some top end. That is minor and I can live with it. But whats making me nuts is my bike pops like mad now on deceleration even if I don't close the throttle all the way. I had some poping before when I put my pipes on but was able to get rid of 95% of it by playing with my fuel controller and installing Lloyds air control. I'm considering playing with the 2% fields in the PC to see if I can get it to run a little better when the throttle is just open a crack. Also when I look at the map it doesnt make alot of sense because at low throttle opening he's got fuel added and at the higher throttle positions it's subtracting fuel. Seems to me that it would be the opposite. Am I misunderstanding something + adds fuel - subtracts it right
In my experience, I would zero out the 0, 2, and 5 % columns, along with a few higher rpm 10% cells. Typically, you are decelerating through those ranges and fuel requirements during decel are lower than during acceleration. This can cause excess fuel to buildup at the exhaust port and with enough heat, cause the backfires you notice.

And, while I respect Lloydz dyno tuning abilities, no dyno tune can account for all real world scenarios. I would consider adding the Auto Tune module, so you'll never need to dyno again. It does it for you, on the fly... not instantaneously, but near real time. I have NO pops and NO backfires.... but I go the extra mile, and turn off turning in certain low throttle opening areas. Once my tune gets close, I restrict its ability to remove too much fuel.

Auto tuners are the sh&t on every other bike brand.... where they not only can use the PCV w/Auto Tune, but the TTi Mastertune and others.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do believe that it was running rich with the old setup. As far as the tune goes he swore to me it was right on the money and I have something else going on with my bike. After it was done I took it for a test ride and told him about the popping. He spent another 1 1/2 hours going over it (looking for air leaks, spark ect) Lloyd did not charge me for the extra time he spent messing with it. He said he suspected that I have a leaky injector but no way to prove it. When I talked with my Vic dealer about it they didn't think it would be an injector but believed it to be a tuning issue. Bottom line is yea I can take it back to Lloyd but for $$ and the need to take a day off work it's just not gonna happen anytime soon. Autotune is just not in the budget. So I fiquire if I can learn how to work this thing to get it running better. I have probably jetted a dozen motorcycle carbs over the years.
 

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I feel ya man i tuned my harley with a carb no problem these fuel injected bikes totally different beast.Just save you map and try other ones or play with the setting you can always put it back.I heard from a few guys and dont know if its true but i heard the stage maps are rich on the low end and lean on the top end.So i looked at a map that was sent to me and the guy had the stage1 map already and i could see the that on the low end they were taking away lots of fuel lots of - values and on the high end adding fuel lots of + values.I just got tired of playing with it and took it off.Well good luck to ya i can see why you dont want put more cash again seems to add up fast.Good luck man
 

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I do believe that it was running rich with the old setup. As far as the tune goes he swore to me it was right on the money and I have something else going on with my bike. After it was done I took it for a test ride and told him about the popping. He spent another 1 1/2 hours going over it (looking for air leaks, spark ect) Lloyd did not charge me for the extra time he spent messing with it. He said he suspected that I have a leaky injector but no way to prove it. When I talked with my Vic dealer about it they didn't think it would be an injector but believed it to be a tuning issue. Bottom line is yea I can take it back to Lloyd but for $$ and the need to take a day off work it's just not gonna happen anytime soon. Autotune is just not in the budget. So I fiquire if I can learn how to work this thing to get it running better. I have probably jetted a dozen motorcycle carbs over the years.
It seems that if it wasn't as noticiable prior to the new tune, then it's due to the new tune, the probability is fairly high that this would be the case which I would suggest.

See if someone can't send you a map with the exact same set-up, (same pipes, engine, air filter, etc.), as you can save your existing map and try the new one. cheers

It seems you didn't get what you paid for to me.
 

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I do believe that it was running rich with the old setup. As far as the tune goes he swore to me it was right on the money and I have something else going on with my bike. After it was done I took it for a test ride and told him about the popping. He spent another 1 1/2 hours going over it (looking for air leaks, spark ect) Lloyd did not charge me for the extra time he spent messing with it. He said he suspected that I have a leaky injector but no way to prove it. When I talked with my Vic dealer about it they didn't think it would be an injector but believed it to be a tuning issue. Bottom line is yea I can take it back to Lloyd but for $$ and the need to take a day off work it's just not gonna happen anytime soon. Autotune is just not in the budget. So I fiquire if I can learn how to work this thing to get it running better. I have probably jetted a dozen motorcycle carbs over the years.
As long as your hard pressed for money and time call Lloydz and see if they can help over the phone
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Definetly gonna put a call in to him. I was reading on another forum the PC V has the ability to store 2 maps and switch on the fly between them. Of course Dynojet sells a switch for this as an option for $50. After doing a little research I found out its a simple on off switch that I can buy for a couple dollars. My plan is to keep the map I have intact tweak and load a second map. At least if I screw up too bad I can always flip a switch
 

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While I realize that my issue was with AutoTune and you do not have that, triple check the connections.

Long story short, I had swapped the rear and front injectors. So, AT was dumping fuel into cylinder 1 and leaning cylinder 2. This caused a chain-reaction as it couldn't ever get the fuel right and kept making things worse until it wouldn't run.
 

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Definetly gonna put a call in to him. I was reading on another forum the PC V has the ability to store 2 maps and switch on the fly between them. Of course Dynojet sells a switch for this as an option for $50. After doing a little research I found out its a simple on off switch that I can buy for a couple dollars. My plan is to keep the map I have intact tweak and load a second map. At least if I screw up too bad I can always flip a switch
Yes any 2 way switch will work but what I did was used my "hazards" switch, I pushed the pins out of the connector. Be careful trying too hard to get rid of the popping on decel as even a perfectly tuned bike will "pop" and in reality you will just de-tune it...

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Discussion Starter #12
Was playing around today and plugged the bike into my PC. Seems my problems are definetly at the 2%. Started the bike and warmed it up. When I crack the throttle to 2% on the power commander software the bike does not run smooth at all, lots of misfireing. Was running about 1600 Rpm. One cylinder was running at +16 the other at +6 which corresponded with the settings on the map. Also it seems like the throttle position doesn't move right away. Throttle starts opening before the power comander software shows the change in throttle position. Is there a way to check the calibration on this?
 

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Was playing around today and plugged the bike into my PC. Seems my problems are definetly at the 2%. Started the bike and warmed it up. When I crack the throttle to 2% on the power commander software the bike does not run smooth at all, lots of misfireing. Was running about 1600 Rpm. One cylinder was running at +16 the other at +6 which corresponded with the settings on the map. Also it seems like the throttle position doesn't move right away. Throttle starts opening before the power comander software shows the change in throttle position. Is there a way to check the calibration on this?
Does the TPS read 0 at idle in the software? , or is bouncing around ? Yes you can calibrate it but assuming that you just had it dyno'd and installed they should have set it . The dynojet way is in the instructions for the pcv.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Installed a switch last night so I can run with 2 different maps. Started by resetting the throttle position which was out of calibration on the low end. Now it registers when the throttle starts to open. Still ran like crap with the throttle starts to open. Took away about half the fuel in the 2% column and a few percentage points at low rpm's in the 5% seems to run much better will know tommorrow when I can get it out for a proper road test
 

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Installed a switch last night so I can run with 2 different maps. Started by resetting the throttle position which was out of calibration on the low end. Now it registers when the throttle starts to open. Still ran like crap with the throttle starts to open. Took away about half the fuel in the 2% column and a few percentage points at low rpm's in the 5% seems to run much better will know tommorrow when I can get it out for a proper road test
What kinda #'s are in your fuel map in the 2% column? Wonder if you have a throttle body leak?

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