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Discussion Starter #1
Right now I have a set of small LED strips on the fairing. I'm going to replace them with a set of actual driving lights on the highway bars. The new LEDs come with Deutsch connectors pre-installed.
I currently have my LED strips hooked into a 12v line under the fairing, on when the key/headlight is on.
I'm looking for suggestions on where to power these new LEDs from and maybe running an on/off switch for them. I don't believe the XCs have any Deutsch connectors free...lol.
I know there are plenty of you with running/fog lights. I'd like to know what your power and switch setups. Thanks
 

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Yeah, the XC may not have all the connectors that the XCTs have. The '12 XCTs came with the HID low beam, with the ballast and its connectors for the light. This meant that there was an extra connector pair under the hood, for a halogen low-beam. There was also a fog/driving light connector in there, unused. I used one of these (I forget which) for my MotoLights (transferred from my prior bike). This also meant that these would turn off automatically when the bike was shut down.

It made me sad to just snip wires in the bike with perfectly good connectors on them, but I got over that. Since then, some folks have found adapters for the Deutsch or whatever the connectors are. I also sort of recall that someone posted a link to an adapter that goes into a typical connector for halogen lights, has a branch off that for an extra goodie, and then continues on with the regular connector for the halogens. I think this was on Amazon or eBay somewhere (I know, big help, huh?).

Additionally, I added an in-line on/off (SPST) switch, if I ever want to shut them off when the bike is running (but I don't really ever use this switch). I used the official Vic switch, which fits in the blank in the dash. I had some credit at the time of sale, so that was no big deal. It's pretty close to the size of standard auto-store switches, lit and unlit, so you don't have to use the Vic switch. I have some pics I can dig out, where I have a caliper measuring the size of the Vic switch (disregarding the lip surround). This beats Posi-Taps or (most certainly) Schotchlok; I use Posi-Locks or Wago Cage Clamp connectors for all my work.

Barring the use of some stock connectors, you could add a fuse block, which is what I did on two prior bikes. This would be triggered by any old ignition-only hot wire, get its juice from the battery, and then power added lights, etc. The more common ones are (per my reading of forums over the years):

FUZEBLOCKS.COM
PC-8
Fuse Panels
 

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I used a test light to find a key activated 12v source that was not being used currently. I tapped in to that and routed the power to a switch that I installed in the factory switch location which then runs to the running lights. I chose to use the factory Victory switch. I can probably dig up the part number if you need it. It was not very expensive as I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I plugged into the pigtail for the tour trunk to run an extra set of rear LED tail and brake lights and I'm using the 12v connector that would feed the tour hard lowers power outlet for the Tom-Tom Rider's power.
 

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I plugged into the pigtail for the tour trunk to run and extra set of rear LED tail and brake lights and I'm using the 12v connector that would feed the tour hard lowers power outlet for the Tom-Tom Rider's power.
Those cigarette-lighter-style sockets are fused at 20 amps (despite what I consider too thin wires that Victory uses for that potential amount of current ... but I digress). Given that 20-amp circuit, and given that GPSs use a very small amount of juice, you could power additional lights using that same circuit. The bad news with that, however, is that that circuit is always hot, so you would have to also add an in-line switch for new lights, and you'd have to remember to turn that off when you shut down the bike. So that's really not a good solution.

However, along the same lines, you could add new lights to the circuit you're using for the already added rear extra lights. LEDs don't typically consume much current, so if the new lights are also LEDs, you could probably have all your added lights powered by that rear pigtail (whether or not you add an extra switch). Since the rear-light stuff shuts down with the bike, you'd be all set. I'm assuming that the new lights are LEDs, and that they're not some super jumbo versions.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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I installed some Clearwater LED lights, pricey but they are incredible.

I just tapped into the Low beam as a power source and the high beam as a signal to go to full intensity when the high beam is activated. I figured since I put in the Vic LED head light that my over all power use has been reduced.

Also the wires running to the Clearwater running lights are a pretty small gauge so they couldn't pulling a bunch of power?

Between the Vic LEDs and the running lights, it turns night into day!
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Pain
I used an LED controller on one. When my high beams are on they share at 100%, when I switch to low beams they go to 50%. I put an on/off switch in the blank spot on the right side of my dash. I did not take the dash out to do this. I snaked the wires up and through, connected the switch , tested it and then snapped the switch in place. The controller I have you can program it a few different ways. To reduce to 0% , 20% or 50%. Also they have an option that if you turn you high beam off then on rapidly the LEDs flash rapidly, i.e. If you were passing someone.
Skene Design Motorcycle Visibility Lights
 
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