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Discussion Starter #1
The previous owner of my Magnum , that was bought at an authorized dealer, changed the oil at 500 miles with AMSOIL 20/50 ?? I almost hate to ask this question because I have read that some like this change.

I am asking for the evidence of ill effects on this kind of change please. My bike has a little over 1000 miles right now. Im not sure if I should switch to the Vic 20/40 or not. :|
thanks
 

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You have 2,000 more miles to go before you engine is broken in - aka loosened up. 20-50 is to thick for now, or maybe forever. If it was me, I'd drop it out and use either the Vic oil or Rotella T-6, which many here use, including me.
You do know that oil level readings are done with the bike VERTICAL.
DISCLAIMER: You have opened Pandora's box with a question about oil. Others will chime in with all sorts of misleading information. Ignore them and heed only what I wrote. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I agree with you and thanks. I am experienced in the online Oil Saga and Blackstone Lab oil testing. It just surprises me why the previous owner would do this esp on a new bike. I had a bad experience with a Quart of Amsoil 20/50 in my Buell. It made the motor louder at speed and at idle. I drained it and put 20/50 Mobile one Vtwin back in. Motor was back to normal again. 35k on the Buell / Highway Bike.
 

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Broke my new rebored resleeved and forged piston and Lloydz cammed 109 cube Vegas in first 50 miles on a specific Penrite break in oil, then the next 600 mile on straight Penrite15-50 mineral oil, then went to a semi-synthetic diesel oil (no prizes for guessing which brand):smile
I tried same brand full synth but it didn't shift gears well on the dragstrip so went back to semi.
It is now using a little oil between changes when ridden hard (which is most of the time)
May try Full Synth Penrite again with different gear shifting method and more relaxed attitude on the strip after talking with HC. as I think the benefits of a full synth outweigh the drawbacks.
Anyway till I get the bike back its all pie in the sky.
OILS being a very personal and controversy filled subject the only thing I'll say is Aussie Penrite oils for tough Aussie conditions....oils ain't oils as they say:devil
 

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To answer the OP's question, if you don't feel comfortable having that brand of oil in your bike, just change it. You could even leave the same filter on. What little bit of Amsoil left in there will merge with whatever you decide to use.

What kind of oil you want to use opens up another oil thread.

Edit: I should have added to change the oil at the next regularly scheduled change to stay on your maintenance schedule. I guess that's obvious though.
 

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To answer the OP's question, if you don't feel comfortable having that brand of oil in your bike, just change it. You could even leave the same filter on. What little bit of Amsoil left in there will merge with whatever you decide to use.

What kind of oil you want to use opens up another oil thread.
Yep...oils cheap, use quality and change it at least at reccomended intervals.
Price of a D.I.Y. oil and filter change is a pittance compared with how much gasoline you put through the tank in the same period.

For your own peace of mind dump the stuff that's in there and run Vicoil till the next change...by then the engine will be broken in.
 

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one should always use factory recommended oil for break in. Then its up to you. I ran Amsoil after break in for 25K and only thing was ticking on startup. One to two minutes later ticking was gone and never had clutch slipping
 

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No lifter ticking with Rotella T-6 cuz its thinner when cold and circulates much faster. Makes for a great cold weather riding oil cuz of that too. Cuz its made for Diesel engines, it has a much heavier additive package aimed at protecting the innards of your engine.
 

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No lifter ticking with Rotella T-6 cuz its thinner when cold and circulates much faster. Makes for a great cold weather riding oil cuz of that too. Cuz its made for Diesel engines, it has a much heavier additive package aimed at protecting the innards of your engine.
And dont forget Diesel oils are higher in detergents to keep everything cleaner inside. Ill find a pic of inside my crankcase after 60,000 miles .
Not good to break em in on diesel oils and definitely no synthetic till the rings are nicely bedded in.
I prefer to bed in my rings on straight mineral after the rebore and resleeve .
On a stock bore Vic-oil though.
Houston! ... We have lift off...another oil thread is safely off the ground.....
 

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I use Vic oil in my Jackpot, but NEVER can make the 8k between services,

So on my CCT i decided to use a different oil, and when I started the bike it was just Sooooo much smoother..... Also at idle.... Of cource running the bike at speeds there is no difference that I can tell... So yes I truly believe vics run smoother on other oils...

When the oil is JASO MA2 then you should be fine....

BUT I DO NOT BELIEVE 8k kilometers between services, coz of the data recieved from the oilanalisis i did... It seems to me the vic oil is just not that good quality...

Whatever you do...
1, buy magnetic drain plug
2, after 8k do one oil analysis so you can see if you have to change earlier or not ¿
3, choose any JASO MA2 that you feel happy with....
4, there are some really good pointers in the posts above...

Smile

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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The Amsoil won't hurt a damned thing.
I whole heartedly agree. My XCT has been enjoying a diet of 15w50 semi-syn diesel oil for the last 32000 kms.

I got rid of the Vic oil at 2000 kms and have not looked back. It is overpriced rubbish as far as I'm concerned.

The last Vic 20w40 in my bike was what the dealer put in at the first service. By the time I'd ridden the 400 kms from the dealer to my home in the midst of an Aussie tropical summer, that oil was shagged and the trans was clunking like an old tractor on every gear change. I drained it out and used it as cutter bar oil in my 40 year old McCulloch chainsaw. That's about it's performance limitation in my book.

Russ.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
one should always use factory recommended oil for break in. Then its up to you. I ran Amsoil after break in for 25K and only thing was ticking on startup. One to two minutes later ticking was gone and never had clutch slipping
I like hearing that you never had clutch slippage. That is my greatest fear.
 

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ambient temperature

if you live + ride in a warmer climate a 20-50 will give more protection!! Amsoil won't hurt anything + like most other "synthetics" which are group III highly refined CRUDE oils, samo Lucas giving little info on base oils. even group III's are surely better than Polaris Vic-Indian oils + the semi-synthetic 20-40 is way costly for what it is IMO. Redline recommends 3,000 miles before using its real synthetic Ester based oils!!
 
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