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Hey men , I bought a can of Turbo Silver and a can of Flat Clear in 10oz spray bombs to paint my inner fairing / dash . The instructions make no note of any primer or adhesion promoter . I am familiar with spraying paint but any advice from someone who had done this would be great , I guess I need a good enamel primer to begin with . Also , when I'm done with the base color how long should I let it set up before laying down the flat clear . The instructions are quit vague . Any help advice , greatly appreciated , I need this project to come out good . Obviously , I am painting black plastic . Thanks .
 

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Hey men , I bought a can of Turbo Silver and a can of Flat Clear in 10oz spray bombs to paint my inner fairing / dash . The instructions make no note of any primer or adhesion promoter . I am familiar with spraying paint but any advice from someone who had done this would be great , I guess I need a good enamel primer to begin with . Also , when I'm done with the base color how long should I let it set up before laying down the flat clear . The instructions are quit vague . Any help advice , greatly appreciated , I need this project to come out good . Obviously , I am painting black plastic . Thanks .
Most important thing you can do is clean the surface with an oil/grease cleaner. I generally use regular paint thinner (not lacquer thinner) from any hardware or paint store. I've been painting for many years and this has always worked well. Make sure you allow sufficient time for the paint thinner to dry off.

To prep the surface for adhesion, use a scuffing pad also found in paint stores. Use the least coarse one. No need to scrub hard, just give it a good scuffing. Then clean with the paint thinner followed by a tac cloth.

Spray 2-3 coats of color, waiting appx 10-15 min between each coat. Allow final coat appx 1/2 hr before applying the clear. Tac rag it before applying the clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Silvr , what about a primer ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OkieDokie , be the fist time I painted anything without a base layer .
 

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If you're painting over chrome plated plastic, like on the cheese wedges, you'll need self etching primer. For what you described, the above advise should work great.
 

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OkieDokie , be the fist time I painted anything without a base layer .
Nothing says you can't but in this case, not necessary.

Regarding self-etching primer, as mentioned, you'd use that on chrome or smooth bare metal, aluminum, etc

Other than that, generally speaking 2 kinds of primer are used ... primer-surfacer (sandable) and primer-sealer.

Surfacer is used to hide imperfections. You sand it down with 400-600 grit.

Sealer is used as the last primer before color to ensure no bleeding occurs and that any sanding lines don't show.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you guys , I will go primer-less cheers
 

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use wet sandpaper its black in color and use 2000 grit. Use a bowl of warm water with about 4 good drops of dish soap. Dish soaps makes sandpaper last longer and doesn't let paint stick to paper. When your done wash part and dry with air or clean towel no paper or fuzzy towel.
Not knowing what paint your using primary parts let dry while your at work. Now your first pass of paint should look like freckles. You don't want to put on a solid coating of paint. Now after ten min spray more paint try to cover a little more of the surface. Once you have the hole part covered with paint let it over night dry.
Next day look at the painted part and if you see dust bumps in paint wet sand the paint as above but very light scuffing. Now spray your clear on let it sit about ten min between coats.
Keep shaking the the spray boom
youtube might have some good tips
I can go paint stuff and it's a lot easier then try to tell someone how to
 

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Mags
do not paint on a humid day. Paint will take forever to dry
use gray primer. Black primer will take more paint to cover the black
 

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contact goody!! he helped with mine, he said let each coat set approx 1/2hr, color to clear.
 

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With reference to visionjohnny's posts.... I'm sorry bud but I have to disagrree on a couple things.

Wet/dry sandpaper in this case is not necessary. A simple, good scuffing with a scuff pad with work just fine.

Using 2000 grit wet/dry is something you might do prior to a final polishing of a clear coat or perhaps between clear coats.

Finally, most rattle can paint is "quick dry" ... either lacquer or enamel.

Again, in this case considering it's the inner fairing, you should not need to let it dry overnight before applying the clear. That said, once you're all done, allow it to cure for at least 12 hours before handling.

I do agree; however, with " Now your first pass of paint should look like freckles. You don't want to put on a solid coating of paint.". .... just don't hold the spray can too far away otherwise the paint will be too dry before hitting the surface.

Oh, and we're talking a LOT of small freckles here... LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #13
contact goody!! he helped with mine, he said let each coat set approx 1/2hr, color to clear.
I was going to text him , but didn't want to bother him , maybe he will see this and chime in . I'm not doing it until this weekend .
 

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I will get a fine scotchbrite pad for scuffing , will alcohol work for the wipe down instead of thinner ? I understand the theory of laying the paint down so I'm good there , I appreciate all the input guys .
 

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contact goody!! he helped with mine, he said let each coat set approx 1/2hr, color to clear.
The time it takes for paint to flash can vary depending on the speed of the reducer used and the temperature of the room and the panel you're painting.

Rattle can ... Check the "dry time" listed on the can. Generally speaking 10-15 min which means the "flash time" will be less than that.
 

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I will get a fine scotchbrite pad for scuffing , will alcohol work for the wipe down instead of thinner ? I understand the theory of laying the paint down so I'm good there , I appreciate all the input guys .
Can't comment on alcohol ... TSP can also do the trick but a small can of paint thinner is pretty inexpensive.
 

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Mags
do not paint on a humid day. Paint will take forever to dry
If you're painting with regular automotive paint, you would use an appropriate reducer depending on temp and humidity so that it won't take forever to dry.

That said though, I have seen some rattle can products be quite slow in drying but they are generally enamels of the non fast-dry type such as those "rust-paint" kinds.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Can't comment on alcohol ... TSP can also do the trick but a small can of paint thinner is pretty inexpensive.
OK Money not an issue , just asking , thanks !
 

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