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Discussion Starter #1
I know I will prob. be bitc#ed at by the search feature police, and I have done some searching -- but wanted to ask others with my same bike a question -

I have been running premium fuel til I read that high octane when not needed will cause carbon build up - I tried a couple tanks of mid-grade - ran great less if any popping -- then I ran 2 tanks of 87 and the bike has been running peerfect - no pinging and no popping on decel - it seems to like low octane fuel the best........are you guys finding the same results and running lower octane fuel?
 

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I alternate between the mid grade and hi test. I believe this bike runs better using what the manafacter recomends... higher octane.
 

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All I can tell ya is it's a 10-1 compression motor with no water cooling that combustion chamber. Using lower grade fuel will burn hotter. So use at your own risk. Burn a valve or two and you'll be kicking yourself.
 

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I've tried the 87 octane however I do get an occasional back pop against the starter if it doesn't fire off the first time and I don't get that with the premium so that's telling me the 87 is firing off a little to quick. Bike also seems to run a lot smoother on the premium so I'm just going to stick with the manufacturer's recommendation of 91.
 

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I don't know enough to experiment on my bike, so I am also sticking to what the owners manual states: 91 octane, everyday since day one.
 

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Like BFP said, you run the risk of things getting too hot. Mine runs fine on premium and that's the people who designed and tested it for (likely) millions of miles recommend. Way I figure it, an extra $50 for every 10K miles or so (cost difference) isn't worth the risk.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It did'nt seem to be running hotter....but, burning a valve would be a nightmare! I will stick with mid grade on cool days and high octane on hot days. Using the lower octane use has nothing to do with cost to me, just want to keep carbon build up to a minimum.
Thanks for the advice,
thumb up
Don
 

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Carbon build up will happen one way or the other over time. Higher octane fuel woun't cause accelarated build up as long as what it's called for. And most higher grade fuels will have some cleaners in them anyhow to help keep things clean so you should be fine.
 

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Ok, I have had a problem with my motor running to rich. With comments of people who I ride with that do not want to ride behind me because of the exhaust fumes. Makes there eyes water and they get headaches. I get extreme carbon build up on my exhaust tips, a black coating inside of 100 miles that is thick, to where you can not see the paint. I have had a dyno pull made and was asked if it was a diesel because of all of the black smoke that poured out of the exhaust that filled up the garage. That was a HD shop and they got a lot of laughs from that.

I read the post and said what have I got to lose. I know enough that I know what rich is (to much fuel or fuel not being burned) plugs that come out black and full of soot. Even when warm rev the engine and see the black come out of the exhaust.

So I cleaned my ehausts tips and tried lower octane fuel and ran a couple of tanks. The result is almost 300 miles and I can still see the paint on my exhaust tips, NO SPARK knock, 3 to 5 mpg more, and it feels a little smoother.

My other option is a fuel controler, $200 to $500, that will automatically reduce the amount of fuel being used to make the engine more efficent. Resulting in the same effect as what I am doing now.

I read this forum a lot, I do not make a lot of comments, I am of the silent majority, there is also a wealth of information here to be used or not used. This is something that made some sense so I tried it and it works.

For all the wrenches, keep the information comming because I can still use your help.

Buster
 

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The Diamond
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Here is something to mull over. You just put on a PUBLIC forum that a Victory rep is a member, that you are using less than the recommended octane.

IF you burn a valve you have just voided your warranty.

The Magnuson act requires the manufacturer to prove that the customer or the aftermarket products caused the failure.

In this case stating you are using lower octane is proof if you damage your engine.

I'm just sayin.


Buster I would advise you take your bike to a VICTORY dealer and have them check the TPS.
 

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I have an 08, no tps adjustment, digetal wrench is usless on 08 and up. They have taken all of the adjustments out of the mech hands. I have been to the dealer and talked to a factory rep. The best I can get from them is I don't know how to ride a v-twin and need to change my riding habbits/style. Without going to a fuel controler there is no adjustment.
 

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The Diamond
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I have an 08, no tps adjustment, digetal wrench is usless on 08 and up. They have taken all of the adjustments out of the mech hands. I have been to the dealer and talked to a factory rep. The best I can get from them is I don't know how to ride a v-twin and need to change my riding habbits/style. Without going to a fuel controler there is no adjustment.
Sorry not paying close enough attention.

Have you done any mods to the bike?
 

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Ok, I have had a problem with my motor running to rich. With comments of people who I ride with that do not want to ride behind me because of the exhaust fumes. Makes there eyes water and they get headaches. I get extreme carbon build up on my exhaust tips, a black coating inside of 100 miles that is thick, to where you can not see the paint. I have had a dyno pull made and was asked if it was a diesel because of all of the black smoke that poured out of the exhaust that filled up the garage. That was a HD shop and they got a lot of laughs from that.

I read the post and said what have I got to lose. I know enough that I know what rich is (to much fuel or fuel not being burned) plugs that come out black and full of soot. Even when warm rev the engine and see the black come out of the exhaust.

So I cleaned my ehausts tips and tried lower octane fuel and ran a couple of tanks. The result is almost 300 miles and I can still see the paint on my exhaust tips, NO SPARK knock, 3 to 5 mpg more, and it feels a little smoother.

My other option is a fuel controler, $200 to $500, that will automatically reduce the amount of fuel being used to make the engine more efficent. Resulting in the same effect as what I am doing now.

I read this forum a lot, I do not make a lot of comments, I am of the silent majority, there is also a wealth of information here to be used or not used. This is something that made some sense so I tried it and it works.

For all the wrenches, keep the information comming because I can still use your help.

Buster
If your bike is running like this on the fuel it was designed to run on then there is something WRONG with your bike. Using lower octane fuel to mask this is treating the symptoms and not the actual problem. You need to get the bike into a proper shop dude that knows what they're doing.
 

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Level 1 mufflers, Loyds secondary air intake and IAC. There will be no other mods to the motor. I live in mid Michigan, as far as I know without a 2 or 3 day drive no one that knows what they are doing. Loyd in NY, Kevin in Fl. No body in the midwest. I will try to make Sprit Lake but I'm not sure on what they have there. I'm like most of the people on this site, looking for ways to make the bike run it's best. The motor needs less fuel to run properly on the recomended fuel (with closed loop FI that is not adjustable) there is no easy way to do this. I have friends with Victory's and their's run great with no mods. Mine has been like this from day 1. Again without spending 2 to $500 on an aftermarket fuel controler to be able to adjust the fuel to get the efficent running motor on the recomended fuel, which the factory will not let you do, you would void a warrenty anyway. With my 08, 2 1/2 years and 26,000 mi. runs more efficent now with the lower grade fuel than it ever has. I will continue to look for someone that has the knowledge to tune my machine that is closer to me, when I find them I will go to them.

Buster
 

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Level 1 mufflers, Loyds secondary air intake and IAC. There will be no other mods to the motor. I live in mid Michigan, as far as I know without a 2 or 3 day drive no one that knows what they are doing. Loyd in NY, Kevin in Fl. No body in the midwest. I will try to make Sprit Lake but I'm not sure on what they have there. I'm like most of the people on this site, looking for ways to make the bike run it's best. The motor needs less fuel to run properly on the recomended fuel (with closed loop FI that is not adjustable) there is no easy way to do this. I have friends with Victory's and their's run great with no mods. Mine has been like this from day 1. Again without spending 2 to $500 on an aftermarket fuel controler to be able to adjust the fuel to get the efficent running motor on the recomended fuel, which the factory will not let you do, you would void a warrenty anyway. With my 08, 2 1/2 years and 26,000 mi. runs more efficent now with the lower grade fuel than it ever has. I will continue to look for someone that has the knowledge to tune my machine that is closer to me, when I find them I will go to them.

Buster
Your situation sounds like a sensor is broken. I don't know enough about these bikes (new to Victory), but I have seen multiple times on FI cars where a bad TPS or a bad MAF had the injectors dumping extra fuel. Could even be the computer itself has an issue.
 

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Everything has been tried. Sat in the dealers shop over the first winter I had it. All of the sensors checked lots of times and the ECM changed out from another bike. The result was always the same. Victory's normaly run lean but a few run rich. I will end up getting it tuned by someone that knows what they are doing, adding a fuel controler and higher grade fuel.

Buster
 

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Everything has been tried. Sat in the dealers shop over the first winter I had it. All of the sensors checked lots of times and the ECM changed out from another bike. The result was always the same. Victory's normaly run lean but a few run rich. I will end up getting it tuned by someone that knows what they are doing, adding a fuel controler and higher grade fuel.

Buster
I just went thru a mess with the wifes 08 Vision. The bike was running very rich, soot, poor performance etc... First thing replaced didn't doo the trick, wiring problem likely just a different issue, but then a air leak was found at the intake. The symptoms were along with the above, after starting when cold the bike would shake, then smooth out. After a block or two at a stop the idle would climb to 1800-2000 rpm, then try to stall on take off. This allowed alot of carbon build that needed to be removed. The guys took it for a ride, then found a air leak and found bad throttle body adapter and seal.
They have been replaced, bike runs like a raped ape!!!! Still might be some carbon left but some thrashing should remove that.
They found that problem by spraying the throttle body adapter with carb cleaner same as you would find air leaks on a older bike. I am going thru the same thing with one of my older bikes, air leak at the compliance fitting at the intake manifold on one of the jugs. Gasket should fix it as the fitting is new.

Longggg I know, but hopefully this will help somebody.
 

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I forgot to add, the bike has 38500 on it and is driven daily.
 
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