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So, I've read through some of the posts here regarding lowering links and adjusting the belt and I've read some conflicting information. I'm hoping to get a bit more clarity on this.

So, I've been riding with my air shock pumped up to 70 PSI. I've lowered it to 50 PSI and installed the adjustable lowering link at 1" lowered.

The bike seems to handle well and I don't have any issues (really like how it handles now).

My questions are:

1) Does lowering it loosen or tighten the belt? It seem to me that it would tighten it, but I've read conflicting points of view on this.
2) How much of an issue is it if I leave it the way it is?

Thanks all!!
 

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So, I've read through some of the posts here regarding lowering links and adjusting the belt and I've read some conflicting information. I'm hoping to get a bit more clarity on this.



So, I've been riding with my air shock pumped up to 70 PSI. I've lowered it to 50 PSI and installed the adjustable lowering link at 1" lowered.



The bike seems to handle well and I don't have any issues (really like how it handles now).



My questions are:



1) Does lowering it loosen or tighten the belt? It seem to me that it would tighten it, but I've read conflicting points of view on this.

2) How much of an issue is it if I leave it the way it is?



Thanks all!!

Lowering the bike tightens the belt... After lowering my XC 1.5" no adjustment was necessary.
 

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loosen or readjust belt is a must. Lower link changes the angle and makes the belt tighter.
If you don't do it you'll tear the teeth off the belt.
You can only adjust the belt when it's over nigh cold.
When belt is warm or hot belt will get tighter
 

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Lowering the bike tightens the belt... After lowering my XC 1.5" no adjustment was necessary.
Yep; you're right. I'm watching the video and when the swingarm is dropped the belt does get looser.

I think I would do as VJ said though and double check the belt adjustment. Definitely critical that it's adjusted right.

Travis; yours was probably loose from breaking in so it didn't need adjustment. Better too loose than too tight IMHO.
 

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lowering the bike tightens the belt pretty good, it needs to be checked and adjusted to factory spec after lowering, on a cross bike factory spec is 32mm with 10lbs push with the tire off the ground.

witchdoctor will tell you it doesnt need to be done
 

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I just did this mod this weekend, only I used the adjustable link. You do need to re-tension your belt.

I highly recommend you get the tension gauge. This is the one I purchased: https://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/33638/i/motion-pro-belt-tension-gauge

I followed the instructions in the manual which said to check the deflection at 4 points (start with the valve stem up and check it there, then move to 3 o'clock and check there, then 6 and 9.) Use the location where the belt is most tight and then adjust it to the factory specs (for the XC is was 32mm +/- 0.5mm.) It wasn't hard to do. And you don't have to turn the adjuster nuts far, turn them a 1/4 turn at a time and then re-check the deflection. See service manual pages 2.23 - 2.27.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just did this mod this weekend, only I used the adjustable link. You do need to re-tension your belt.

I highly recommend you get the tension gauge. This is the one I purchased: https://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/33638/i/motion-pro-belt-tension-gauge

I followed the instructions in the manual which said to check the deflection at 4 points (start with the valve stem up and check it there, then move to 3 o'clock and check there, then 6 and 9.) Use the location where the belt is most tight and then adjust it to the factory specs (for the XC is was 32mm +/- 0.5mm.) It wasn't hard to do. And you don't have to turn the adjuster nuts far, turn them a 1/4 turn at a time and then re-check the deflection. See service manual pages 2.23 - 2.27.
How much did you lower it by? I have the adjustable one too and I held it up to the stock and it was about an inch longer. But I forgot that actually translates into a 2 inch drop and not a one inch drop.
 

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I just did this mod this weekend, only I used the adjustable link. You do need to re-tension your belt.

I highly recommend you get the tension gauge. This is the one I purchased: https://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/33638/i/motion-pro-belt-tension-gauge

I followed the instructions in the manual which said to check the deflection at 4 points (start with the valve stem up and check it there, then move to 3 o'clock and check there, then 6 and 9.) Use the location where the belt is most tight and then adjust it to the factory specs (for the XC is was 32mm +/- 0.5mm.) It wasn't hard to do. And you don't have to turn the adjuster nuts far, turn them a 1/4 turn at a time and then re-check the deflection. See service manual pages 2.23 - 2.27.
Good advice! These bikes are engineered to certain specs so using the same adjustments the engineers and testers did seem like a good idea to me. At the very least; there's no way to go wrong using this technique.

I know this goes against the grain for a lot of folks but once I have found what the correct adjustment feels like; I really don't need a gage to tell me if it's right or not but it is a good way to back up an already old school way of checking it.

I don't even know why I bring this up other than to to say that maybe it's a good idea to feel the belt's tension and turn deflection after using the high tech method so later on down the road when you come out of the motel or tent you are in; you can do a quick hand check on the belt along with many other physical checks to make sure your bike is good to go for the day.

Just sayin'...
 

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Good advice! These bikes are engineered to certain specs so using the same adjustments the engineers and testers did seem like a good idea to me. At the very least; there's no way to go wrong using this technique.

I know this goes against the grain for a lot of folks but once I have found what the correct adjustment feels like; I really don't need a gage to tell me if it's right or not but it is a good way to back up an already old school way of checking it.

I don't even know why I bring this up other than to to say that maybe it's a good idea to feel the belt's tension and turn deflection after using the high tech method so later on down the road when you come out of the motel or tent you are in; you can do a quick hand check on the belt along with many other physical checks to make sure your bike is good to go for the day.

Just sayin'...

I agree with this method Bbob.
 

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How much did you lower it by? I have the adjustable one too and I held it up to the stock and it was about an inch longer. But I forgot that actually translates into a 2 inch drop and not a one inch drop.
I started by making the new link 1/2" shorter than the stock, which should be 1" lower in the back, and installed it. I rode that way for a day and had no issues so I lowered it two full turns the next day. Since then I lowered it one more full turn. So I'm not really sure where I'm at now. FWIW, I took the advice of others here and set the shock at 40 psi. I will more than likely lower it further but for now I will put some miles on it and make sure I don't bottom out.
 

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1 full turn is 1/4", before you go lower either flip or remove amd replace the brake line bracket on the left side of the swingarm with some rubber coated pclamps. it will contact the ecu mount and break it loose. and when you get your height picked, readjust your belt.
 

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I suppose the argument could be made that since the bike is lowered it's spending more time than it normally would with the suspension "compressed" which can put additional strain on things if the belt is not loosened. My personal opinion is that the belt should be adjusted properly with the bike at normal ride height, then left alone after lowering.
 

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I suppose the argument could be made that since the bike is lowered it's spending more time than it normally would with the suspension "compressed" which can put additional strain on things if the belt is not loosened. My personal opinion is that the belt should be adjusted properly with the bike at normal ride height, then left alone after lowering.

when you lower the bike, thats where you are at, why would you not adjust the belt there? it gets really tight when you lower, putting more pressure on the front pulley, rear pulley, rear wheel bearings, and belt.
 

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i guess whether you lower or run stock height, you adjust the belt the same way, with the wheel off tge ground. so it will adjust correctly anyway, do it with the lowering link in the lowered position
 

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Anyone that lowers their bike and doesn't check their adjustment is just plain "Batshit Crazy" ! I went 1.5" and my belt was very tight after . Yes , it was properly adjusted to begin with ....
 

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You will need to adjust your headlight too , WD doesn't tell you that either ....
 
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Since I clearly have not, and really never intend to lower my bike I'll ask the potentially stupid question. Once lowered, is the maximum extended angle of the swingarm reduced? In other words, if you lift the bike off the ground can the swingarm still drop to the same point that a stock height bike can? If so then adjusting your belt is potentially problematic because when cresting a sharp hill or going over a pothole, when the suspension extends, the belt could very well end up being too loose which could result in it falling off. If the full extension travel is now limited by the lowering link then that is probably not an issue.
 

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I believe the lowering link reduces the total travel of the rear suspension.

In any event, the belt is adjusted to spec by lifting the rear tire off of the ground. Therefore, the deflection is set at the maximum point the swing arm can extend...as such the belt is in no danger of coming off.
 

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I believe the lowering link reduces the total travel of the rear suspension.



In any event, the belt is adjusted to spec by lifting the rear tire off of the ground. Therefore, the deflection is set at the maximum point the swing arm can extend...as such the belt is in no danger of coming off.

you are correct!
 
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