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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There was another thread that ended up with this discussion, so I thought I'd repost as a how too as I final decided to get around to it. Yes, not elegant, but EZ. took no longer than 20 minutes, no major tools, and one part. NAPA Tire Hardware Dual Wheel Tire Valve part #90-330

Basically
1) remove seat
2) remove side cover over filler
3) Remove bold holding filler Nipple
4) Loose side plate it is mounted into (screw near it to right, don't even have to remove)
5) wiggle nipple out.
6) remove hose from "loop" on top of fender to allow play
7) re-route to just under seat bolt and attach braided extension
8) continue behind wires to behind frame fork mount to engine Bracket, either right or left (picture shows LEFT side, more room, less heat)
9) tighten screw holding nipple mount that came in kit
10) Zip tie where needed

I put the screw behind the bracket and tightened from other side.

And that's it!

PS First pic is sideways... sorry... seat on left should...needs rotation 90 degrees right

2-4-13 - After seeing Catroadman running filler to a zip tie holder behind hose, wiring harness, I decided to update this thread and change the mount to this side. If you wish to use Catroadman's drill out of that hole, you still have enough room running the cable in this direction without pulling tank and running through frame. In my case the zip tie hole is too hidden behind my reverse wiring harness.

Don't know why I was so focused mounting on same side as factory (beers and wrenching don't mix I guess) , it is much easier putting it on this side. Thanks Catroadman.
 

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That's brilliant! I was so ticked to see all the scratches in my black paint from taking the cover on and off to adjust pressure. Not to mention, the darts and grommets are somewhat picky on that side. They aren't always seated when they seem to be.
Something to do while staring at the snow. Thanks
 

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good job hope you never burn your hand
I wounder why they didn't put the nipple between fender and bag on a L bracket pointing up
 

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Mike: excellent work! And I really like how your pics show each step of the process, and that you provided the part #. Thanks.
 

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there is a rubber seal in the schrader valve. being that close to the exhaust that gets very hot may cause the rubber to fail thus a leak down.


it may be way to close to that pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
there is a rubber seal in the schrader valve. being that close to the exhaust that gets very hot may cause the rubber to fail thus a leak down.


it may be way to close to that pipe.
First choice was to go to rear, but too difficult finding lines that were long enough at local stores. High quality braided lines are difficult to locate past 10" (please defer all dirty jokes to another thread...)

While close to exhaust, should not be heat issue. Went for 100 mile ride after doing this and while nipple was "warm" wasn't hot. Second, yes, if you want to adjust air during a long ride, you need to be careful of heat from heat shield on your fingers. I usually adjust just before a ride. I may add a 1 inch extender to take care of this problem. You can also angle it more away from exhaust as you can see there is room to spare before hitting clutch cable.

Now before some complain there may be too many connections to fail, I don't care. Too easy to replace a new extension or filler valve. A failure here doesn't cause me to stop riding like a clutch cable, only to repair a $1 part and 2 minutes labor. And while were talking about possibility of failure...WAIT UNTIL YOU SEE THE STUPID ANGLE THEY HAVE THE HOSE MAKING BEHIND THE FILLER NIPPLE! They have a beautiful curve with a retention clip on the fender, but have the hose almost crimped in a right angle behind the side plate!

Next step for me will be a Hydraulic clutch which will allow me to move it further away from exhaust, and either paint the clamp black or replace with a flat piece of metal mounted to the bolt on the engine bracket where the clutch cable will vanish from.

Anyway as I said not elegant, but cheap and easy and the braided line is designed for trucker tires, friction, water, heat...so I expect it can handle this.
 

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Would this extension work? It's 4" longer, so it may allow for a more ideal location. It's $15 on Amazon, and looks to be the same high quality braided steel line. I'm not much of a designer, anyone have any ideas on utilizing the extra length to locate a bit further from pipes/cylinder?

 

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There was another thread that ended up with this discussion
Not to take anything away from your mod, but what is it that people find about popping that little side cover off irksome? I run ~40-45 lbs in mine and I might actually have to pop it off and pump a little in a couple times a year. Removing and replacing the side cover takes a matter of seconds. I don't get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I adjust my air almost weekly. I'm small and when the wife joins me I have to alter it, then lower it again when I go solo. With a lowered bike it makes a huge difference. I also ride in NC a lot and will actually adjust it when we stop for breaks if major winding roads or I will scrape. When you do it that much that side cover becomes tiresome, and can easily get scratched up, an the grommets' holding it slowly breakdown. I had 1 crack just the first year.
 

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Not to take anything away from your mod, but what is it that people find about popping that little side cover off irksome? I run ~40-45 lbs in mine and I might actually have to pop it off and pump a little in a couple times a year. Removing and replacing the side cover takes a matter of seconds. I don't get it.
1) What MTVic said above goes for me, too.

2) As I whine in my write-up ( http://www.billanddot.com/shock-valve-relocation.html ) on my related mod, there's about an inch before you hit the bag guard, and less than an inch before you hit the passenger floorboard mount. That's a scratch or a broken pin waiting to happen.

I notice that you have an XR, so cover-removal may not be as bothersome on that bike as on the XCT -- I'll have to take a better look at the XRs, the next time I'm in a showroom.
 

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I'm going to chime in and say that every time I've removed the cover I've banged it up against the bag guard or the passenger floorboard mount on my XCT. To prevent this I have settled to just running the shock at a higher pressure so I don't need to change it when my wife is along. When I'm out and about without her I like a lower setting and the on and off with the cover bugs me, I do wish it were hinged with a latch but oh well. A simple mod and I can do what I want with the pressure without messing with the cover, great work guys another quick winter mod to do.


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There is a place on left side of bike that is a plastic. I drilled it out to 5/16 and mounted the fill valve there. Don't know if this will work if your using the cable clutch

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Discussion Starter #15
Looks good. By left side..do you mean right (usually as you face the headlight, not sit on bike)? Side with the key correct?

For me a "no go", my reverse wiring harness is routed there.

I will hide mine better after my Hydraulic Clutch goes on too, plenty of room to put a small plate on the left side once the cable adjustment is removed.

Again, nice job.
 

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Let's go with key side. And since i did speakers and amp better go check my left/right turn signals and speakers.... Just in case

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catroadman: that's a very nice spot. I just went out in the garage to find it; that black hose/tube/wire-bundle -- whatever it is that appears on the left side of the pic in which you should the top of the blue side cover -- was hiding that plastic tab. I never knew it was there; if I had known, I might have used that.

I have the stock cable clutch, and it looks like a long hose extension can pass behind the metal surround for the cable.

As a really old guy, I kind of prefer to have things on the "up" side of the bike -- the side opposite the side stand -- because that makes for a little less bending, a little less crouching, to mess with stuff. So I like my version, too (the new Schrader valve on the right side of the bike). But, as I say, that's a really nice -- and much simpler -- solution that you came up with.

Were you inspired by MTVic's extension/hose-relocation work, too, or is this an old mod, that you're just now reporting on?
 

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I was like many others that just got tired of taking that panel off. I had thought of how to change thus many times but Be never did. If was to do it again i would have gotten black hoses from Pep boys. Cheaper and i think would be easier to twist and bend. I have to give credit to both MTVic and yourself. I would like to have done out on the up side as well, but i just did not have the guts to drill that cover and just saw that spot that looked like a real good place to hide it.

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I was like many others that just got tired of taking that panel off. I had thought of how to change thus many times but Be never did. If was to do it again i would have gotten black hoses from Pep boys. Cheaper and i think would be easier to twist and bend. I have to give credit to both MTVic and yourself. I would like to have done out on the up side as well, but i just did not have the guts to drill that cover and just saw that spot that looked like a real good place to hide it.

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Gotcha, on all counts. I think both of us owe MTVic a cold one some day.
 
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