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Discussion Starter #1
So I stopped during a ride today. When I fired the bike up I had no radio anymore. Not just a lack of radio, but the info cluster for the radio wasn't even lit up. I've cycled the ignition several times since and nothing. I'm on mobile and can't see my signature so I no longer have the jackpot that my namesake here indicates but rather a 2014 xc I purchased brand new.

If it matters the radio is still the stock Ntouch unit with a Rockford Fosgate marine grade amp powering Polk Audio speakers. I suspect when I take the fairing off I'm going to find the radio head unit dead since I had an amp die before and the radio still worked fine. But the fact the lower display went out has caused additional concern. Thoughts from anyone else that has experienced similar?
 

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I believe it has a fuse on it. Have to figure out what caused it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm hoping it's just the fuse. I'm betting on a grounding issue if that's the case. Stuff is packed in there right with the radio, amp, airhorn, etc. I wouldn't be surprised if that happened.
 

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I'm hoping it's just the fuse. I'm betting on a grounding issue if that's the case. Stuff is packed in there right with the radio, amp, airhorn, etc. I wouldn't be surprised if that happened.
Frequently a problem is found in the last place you worked on or one recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
BBob I haven't touched anything under the "hood" in probably about two to three years. But I will investigate this week. Also have to address my ABS light coming on yesterday as well. Suspect a bad sensor or crimped wire.
 

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BBob I haven't touched anything under the "hood" in probably about two to three years. But I will investigate this week. Also have to address my ABS light coming on yesterday as well. Suspect a bad sensor or crimped wire.
I hear ya. I hate these kind of problems because they can be a real pain to find but usually easy to fix once found.

I've been tracking an idle problem on My old 99 Mustang. Figured it was either the MAF sensor or the IAC valve. Turned out to be both the IAC valve and a vacuum leak from old rubber tubing that sits close to the engine so it dried out faster than the other rubber tubing around it. Temp fixed it with some plain old electricians tape until I can get a new tube. I think the vacuum leak caused the IAC valve to wear out prematurely or until it couldn't keep up with the vacuum leak to adjust the idle speed.

What can make these issues even harder to find is if the new part, in my case the MAF was bad right from the factory. Not an OEM. If I do need this part in the future; I'll buy a good recondition OEM over an aftermarket MAF. Why? Because a new OEM MAF is over $400. Recondition OEM is $150. Aftermarket is anywhere from $50 to $95 but it's a crap shoot on if they work (right) or not. These things can bench test fine and still be bad. Frustrating to say the least. The IAC from Motorcraft wasn't too bad at $60.

I guess this is why a lot of people like to buy new vehicles (cars, trucks, or bikes) but besides the extra cost; they can have problems too. At least they are under warranty though.

Pardon the ramble. My point is I hope you find your gremlin quickly before it has you pulling your hair out. :smile
 
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