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Alright, i have read every forum i could find about updating the stock stereo. i have finally pulled the trigger and went with the rockford 4x75 and ran that to polk 4 ohm speakers. now here is my issue. with the key on i can crank it as loud as i want. but if i start the bike it will cut out when turning it up. now if its hot out and i ride the bike for about 3-4 minutes the cutting out goes away and it works like a million bucks. if i stop and shut the bike off for a minute then start it back up it cuts in and out again for a lil bit. if its cold it seems to take a very long time for it to play normal. the battery has around 12.43 volts just sitting there, draws down to 11.12 when i hit the start button and then goes upto 14.43 when running. i even put the battery on a draw tester and it passed with flying colors. all my speaker connections are soldered and good and my power and ground for the amp are ran directly to the battery. anyone have any ideas of something before i drop the $75 on a new battery. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have it hooked direct. im possibly thinking there is something internal inside the new amp. because whenever the amp warms up then it is fine.
 

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as of now rockford is having me check the speakers to make sure they are in spec and are not shorting out. so that will be tonights project.
 

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It's the battery. There is nothing wrong with it, as it operates as it should, but it's a weak battery for the monster starter these bikes have. That's why it works fine after it "warms up" because the battery's getting charged back up after the starter had it depleted to levels below what the stereo would like. So if you do get a new battery, make sure you do not buy the same one that came with the bike (try one from Ballistic Performance).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
sounds good. it does make sense. the only thing that doesnt jive is that when its only about 60 degrees it takes forever and sometimes never for it to play normal. but on hot days like today (90) it works within 5 minutes.
 

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sounds good. it does make sense. the only thing that doesnt jive is that when its only about 60 degrees it takes forever and sometimes never for it to play normal. but on hot days like today (90) it works within 5 minutes.
Batteries, in general, operate better in warmer ambient temperatures than in cold. The chemical reaction that generates electrons to supply the current is sped up at higher temperatures, and slowed down at lower temperatures, and you might be observing just that. My money's on the battery - I'm only betting my 2 cents here, so I don't have much to lose. :D
 

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well i think im gonna just bite the bullet and try a battery. the only reason i ruled it out was because i had it hooked upto a battery charger while i started it and left it charging while running and it still cut in and out. but you definitely have a good point and it sound promising. (maybe im just afraid to try the battery and to still have an issue!!):confused:
 

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...(maybe im just afraid to try the battery and to still have an issue!!):confused:
I know, it's harder to make mistakes when you're the one paying for them. Do you know how many amps does the new stereo draw compared to the stock?
 

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well put a brand new fully charged battery in on the 3rd. no go. still same problem. not sure what the amp draw of the amp is but tonight if i find time i will check the speakers and possibly solder in my polk 5 1/4s and see if i have the same problem.
 

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The battery is not defective; it's performing as it should. It's just that our bikes come with one weak battery for the monster starter they have. As I suggested in an earlier post on this thread, try a Ballistic Performance battery, or something with more juice than what the stock batteries have.

Try what you said about the speakers - you might find the problem there as well. Let us know how it goes.
 

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alright i tried the new speakers and another no go. i just cant spend the money right now on that kind of battery. the other weird thing i noticed now is that in the beginning when i start it, if i rev on it or get on the throttle hard it cuts out worse. the other problem i have is no one else is having this problem with their cross country. the only problem i hear is they blow the amp. and mine is still working. it works great after its very hot. actually it has been in the 90s up here this week and it only takes about a minute for the stereo to play great. i think im going to try a new amp just to rule that possibility out.
 

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Alright, i have read every forum i could find about updating the stock stereo. i have finally pulled the trigger and went with the rockford 4x75 and ran that to polk 4 ohm speakers. now here is my issue. with the key on i can crank it as loud as i want. but if i start the bike it will cut out when turning it up. now if its hot out and i ride the bike for about 3-4 minutes the cutting out goes away and it works like a million bucks. if i stop and shut the bike off for a minute then start it back up it cuts in and out again for a lil bit. if its cold it seems to take a very long time for it to play normal. the battery has around 12.43 volts just sitting there, draws down to 11.12 when i hit the start button and then goes upto 14.43 when running. i even put the battery on a draw tester and it passed with flying colors. all my speaker connections are soldered and good and my power and ground for the amp are ran directly to the battery. anyone have any ideas of something before i drop the $75 on a new battery. thanks
Hopefully you found your problem by now. I may be chiming in a little late but I just recieved my RF pbr amp today and after reading the instructions I noticed that you ran your ground directly to the battery and clearly the instructions state to a chassis ground less than 30" or as close to the amp as possible. Making sure that you clean the area of choice ( alum frame area behind fairing?) and secure with a non anodized screw.

The ballistic battery that Cross roads suggested is agreat idea and may be inevitable in the future. for now be sure to keep your battery on a tender as much as possible.

another possibility is the HL adjustment on your amp. Check with RF and see where that should be set as the instructions are not to clear as to where it should be dialed to . For now I am only going to run 2 channels and from what I understand I dont need to hook up the remote wire as the amp should turn on by itself due to the source signal. If you are running 4 channels you may need the remote wire hooked up and a good place would be to the acc, cig lighter pos wire. Again this was not clear to me in the instructions but previous amp installs are coming back to my old ass memory. Still I would go over all these scenarios with RF as their cicuitry is more advanced in this amp. Good luck and keep us posted :confused:
'
 

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Hopefully you found your problem by now. I may be chiming in a little late but I just recieved my RF pbr amp today and after reading the instructions I noticed that you ran your ground directly to the battery and clearly the instructions state to a chassis ground less than 30" or as close to the amp as possible. Making sure that you clean the area of choice ( alum frame area behind fairing?) and secure with a non anodized screw.

The ballistic battery that Cross roads suggested is agreat idea and may be inevitable in the future. for now be sure to keep your battery on a tender as much as possible.

another possibility is the HL adjustment on your amp. Check with RF and see where that should be set as the instructions are not to clear as to where it should be dialed to . For now I am only going to run 2 channels and from what I understand I dont need to hook up the remote wire as the amp should turn on by itself due to the source signal. If you are running 4 channels you may need the remote wire hooked up and a good place would be to the acc, cig lighter pos wire. Again this was not clear to me in the instructions but previous amp installs are coming back to my old ass memory. Still I would go over all these scenarios with RF as their cicuitry is more advanced in this amp. Good luck and keep us posted :confused:
'
When I first got my RF PBR amp installed I had the same problem as the OP with it cutting out only when the motor was under load. RF eventually told my installer that on a M/C application these amps need to have the power and ground directly wired to the battery. The directions that come with the amp more or less assume it will be installed in a car. One other thing I made sure to do was buy the RF install kit so I had all the correct gauge wire etc. I think it was an extra $40 but it also gives you an extra year of warranty. Since the OP said originally that his was wired like I was told to do mine I don't have much to offer as far as advice goes. I would ask this however...did you buy the kit like I did? If not were you sure to use the correct gauge wire? Hope you find the problem. I know how frustrated I was.
 

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When I first got my RF PBR amp installed I had the same problem as the OP with it cutting out only when the motor was under load. RF eventually told my installer that on a M/C application these amps need to have the power and ground directly wired to the battery. The directions that come with the amp more or less assume it will be installed in a car. One other thing I made sure to do was buy the RF install kit so I had all the correct gauge wire etc. I think it was an extra $40 but it also gives you an extra year of warranty. Since the OP said originally that his was wired like I was told to do mine I don't have much to offer as far as advice goes. I would ask this however...did you buy the kit like I did? If not were you sure to use the correct gauge wire? Hope you find the problem. I know how frustrated I was.
Archer, What type of install wiring was being used on your bike by the installer. He would have used 10 gauge at least, or possibly too heavy of a gauge? Did he use the RF kit originally? Was your only problem the location of the ground?

I'm just trying to figure out this situation before I get started on my install. It sounds like OP didn't have this problem at the brginning so what escalated this is the question. And if he did have the problem why did he button up and move on. Starting to sound like a faulty amp that may not really be designed for motorcycles. Waitin on My RF kit to arrive and hopefully we get this figured out.
 

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Archer, What type of install wiring was being used on your bike by the installer. He would have used 10 gauge at least, or possibly too heavy of a gauge? Did he use the RF kit originally? Was your only problem the location of the ground?

I'm just trying to figure out this situation before I get started on my install. It sounds like OP didn't have this problem at the brginning so what escalated this is the question. And if he did have the problem why did he button up and move on. Starting to sound like a faulty amp that may not really be designed for motorcycles. Waitin on My RF kit to arrive and hopefully we get this figured out.
My installer used the RF kit from the beginning. In my case the fact that my ground was not to the battery was my problem.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i did not use the rockford kit. but i did use good quality 10 gauge wire. direct ground and positive. i am still having the issue and have had it since the very beginning. i have tried new speakers, new battery, hi pass, med pass. gain down to one upto 7. still no fix. i have a new amp coming Thursday and will switch it out Thursday night. im kind of running out of options. now i am thinking to do a possible bigger gauge ground wire. when you guys have grounded inside the fairing what are you grounding to? my original ground was right behind the amp with the ground wire only being 6 inches. i drilled a hole cleaned it and bolted the ground solid. that ground didn't work at all. that is why i went straight to battery.
 

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i did not use the rockford kit. but i did use good quality 10 gauge wire. direct ground and positive. i am still having the issue and have had it since the very beginning. i have tried new speakers, new battery, hi pass, med pass. gain down to one upto 7. still no fix. i have a new amp coming Thursday and will switch it out Thursday night. im kind of running out of options. now i am thinking to do a possible bigger gauge ground wire. when you guys have grounded inside the fairing what are you grounding to? my original ground was right behind the amp with the ground wire only being 6 inches. i drilled a hole cleaned it and bolted the ground solid. that ground didn't work at all. that is why i went straight to battery.
I hav'nt installed mine yet. Still waiting for my install kit to arrive. Had to search the world over to find one. The folks I bought my amp from stopped stocking them and it seemed that only Amazon.com had the 10 guage kit. Well it should be here today and I guess worth the wait considering everything is in the kit and adds an extra year warranty tot he amp.

I will post when I get mine done and I hope it goes well. Funny thing is my local world of sound (Nashes) dropped RF and I think its because of issues like these. He really didnt say but I know he does alot of Harleys and offered a 500 watt Kinter amp thats 1/2 the size of the RF PBR300. I just didnt like the made in China looks of it and told him I would get back to him. If problems continue with these amps it may be neccesary to look at HMD's set up with Hawg Wired components. Mike at HMD says it works better than anything out there and no problems so far. With his Bag lids for 6.5 " speakers this would be my next move. It's just that Momma says $845 for a sound system and another $800 plus for the painted lids just is'nt in the budget right now. :crzy:
 
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