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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The wifey's XC has had a valve train rattle on and off since it was new.
There was a constant tick like a lash adjuster that wasn't completely pumped up. It was there since the bike was first fired up. Everyone hoped it would go away but it didn't.

It got worse over the first 7000 miles. There was the constant annoying ticking but then it began occasionally getting much louder.
Only for 1 to 10 minutes, then it would just have this annoying tick again. The wife called it threshing machine mode. It would get sounding quite loud coming from the front head. Loud enough to be heard clearly over traffic at 75 mph.


The problem was the front cam chain tensioner. When exchanged with one from another bike the problem disappeared. When replaced with a new one and test driven the bike had noticeably more power and continues to run better with a very normal sounding valve train.
The lazy lash adjuster syndrome disappeared completely.

I'd like to express my appreciation to Chris and Victory of Mesa, AZ for their part in getting us a new tensioner and getting it installed under warranty.

If you have a problem with what you think is a noisy lash adjuster ya might consider throwing a tensioner at it. They can be changed without opening the motor and they aren't very expensive (list $37 each).


If you have a friend with the same bike it only takes about 5 minutes to pull his out and put it in your bike to see if it solves the problem. If it does you'll know immediately when you start it. You don't need a new gasket and you don't need to over tighten it to do the test. It only needs to be snug enough to not leak for a test.
Marking a line on the plug/cap and cylinder with a marker before you start will allow you to get it close to the torque when you return it to the original bike it came from after you complete the test.

Don't know if her bike was unique so no guarantees offered. But it worked on ours.
 

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Good info Joe! I had the problem and after pulling my front tensioner to look for wear (none found) I decided to experiment with oils. Thankfully my noise disappeared but now I know that if it comes back it's still a cheap fix!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No guarantee of course, but when I had that faulty tensioner out at one time, it seemed to function flawlessly. I was sure it was fine. However when it was installed in a formerly quite bike, that bikes valve train became noisy off idle initially, then even at idle once it warmed up.

Took it out and examined it again. This time closer with the good one to compare it to and it seemed fine. Without a leak down spec and a test jig of some sort I am not sure how you tell if they are up to par, except to put in a known good one.

The bad one had minor surface rust stains on it like it may have been exposed to moisture at some point in it's life. However it acted as you would expect in your hand. It felt and looked identical to the one that worked properly. When installed it definitely misbehaved though.

We weren't expecting to get more power when the new one arrived and was put in. The wife and I were just hoping to get rid of the valve train noises. The added power pretty much confirms that it was not maintaining tension and the cam timing was not precise.

Unfortunately my bike is now no longer faster than the wifes, something she was happy to demonstrate to me on the way home from having the new tensioner put in.:rolleyes: Used to think it was my superior driving skills. :(
 

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Unfortunately my bike is now no longer faster than the wifes, something she was happy to demonstrate to me on the way home from having the new tensioner put in.:rolleyes: Used to think it was my superior driving skills. :(
Thanks for the info Joe and you should be letting her win...no matter what ;)
 

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Thanks for the good info, Joe_
My bike has had the loud rattle since about 7k miles.
I called Victory of Mesa because I was having trouble finding the part number. My local dealer said they only listed the complete assembly.
I was able to talk to the tech that worked on your wife's bike and he talked me through everything. Great guy!!!
If anyone else is interested, the part number is 3021517
Hopefully my results are as good as yours once the part comes in, and I get it installed.


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Discussion Starter #6
No guarantees of course but her bike is still quiet and she has put over a thousand miles, probably closer to two, on it since it was fixed. This is a bike that did it daily. It has never made a peep. I still have my fingers crossed. Hope it works for yours too.
 

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UPDATE:
Tensioner arrived today and installed it. Took less than five minutes, after calling Chris at Victory of Mesa for a little guidance. When I was trying to get the old tensioner out it would move up and down and spin but I couldn't pull it out. Chris said it will pull out, just tough. I used a rag and channel locks, and it pulled right out. When you get it out and attempt to put the new one in, you'll see that there is a little ring that holds it in the nut.
Result:
Chatter noise is completely gone!
Put a stethoscope on the jug, next to the tensioner that I replaced (front cylinder) and there no chatter / tap at all. Put the stethoscope same spot on rear jug and its tapping away!
Going to order another tensioner tomorrow.
Hope this lasts!!!!!!


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How about a write up with pics when you put the next one in!
 

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Yes definitely a write up please. seems you guys have discovered a simple fix for the noisy valve train that every one seems to complain about. At least you have given us something else to look at and consider. thumb up

Most dealers would say....." just ride it..... they all do that!" :eek:
 

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Well finally some help. I have had bad noise coming from my motor that we think is the result of a loose timing chain that would be from a bad tensioner. Have them both out and the video shows the difference between the front and back. You are correct there really is no evidence if either is bad. The front moves very slightly in the cap and the back moves a lot more in the cap. Both springs seem fine. Getting them apart was a question but it appears that you are suppose to just pull the lifter out. I will wait to do that until the new ones get here. After 80k miles I think I can afford a couple of $44,39 parts.

For those interested in changing theirs I can tell you that with you exhaust in place you will need a 27mm box or open end wrench. There is room to get the front out with a big adjustable but the back was tight so off to Harbor Freight I went. Got an entire set for $45.

 

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Yes definitely a write up please. seems you guys have discovered a simple fix for the noisy valve train that every one seems to complain about. At least you have given us something else to look at and consider. thumb up

Most dealers would say....." just ride it..... they all do that!" :eek:
Yep, think I'll try it too.
 
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