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Discussion Starter #1
I tried to change out my rear brake pads on Monday night. The directions are simple:
Remove cotter pin
Push retaining in back
Remove outside pad
Open bleeder and compress the pistons back
close bleeder
put in new outside pad
push caliper towards wheel
remove retaining pin all the way
put in new inside pad
put the retaining pin and cotter pin back

Now the ISSUE...I could not move caliper. I ended up forcing the inside pad on and now the brakes are lock (the inside pad is wedged on the rotor). I can't even push the bike. I google this issue the best that I could and found no solutions. It said that the V92's (mine is a 2000) have a floating rotor. Has anyone changed out the pad before and could offer any suggestions? The weather has been awesome and I'm starting to twitch from withdrawal.
 

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Your going the have to pull a pad. Now un bolt "caliper" from brake anchor. Now look at pistons and see if there out to far. If you can see a O ring then yes there out to far or look to see if piston is cocked. If you see O ring or they looked cocked your going to have to pull pistons and put back in and you should have dealer do that. You will need new O rings. Its tricky to get pistons out you need a air compressor and you can smash a finger or two. If no O ring set old pad in place and with a fat large screwdriver put between the pads and turn side ways. This should push piston back in. Get pistons in as far as you can or flush.Now put in new pads and reinstall and pump brakes to firm. If you do not get a firm pedal you'll have to bleed brakes.
If you have a caliper that is below axle you will have to un bolt the caliper from the anchor and get it up high. Air in the line will NOT go down hill. Air always goes to the highest point.
Next time DO NOT bleed brakes.
You should un bolt caliper from anchor twist back in forth till you can slid caliper off rotor then change pads.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
VisionJohnny, I don't want to sound like a doofus, but I got the pads removed. Now can you tell me how to remove the calipers?

Also, if you can check out the photos. It will help explain what I am dealing with. One of the pictures shows the caliper on the rotor without pads and how offset it is, another shows how the pad will not fit on the inside, and the last shows how much space there is with the pad on the outside.

Maybe this will provide more info. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
 

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Should be two bolts that hold them to the mount.
Your last photo I can see one. It has the rubber ribbed boot. Your pistons look like there not out thats good.
 

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I'm not a mechanic and this is only a suggestion and if I'm wrong please correct me but wouldn't it be easier to push the pistons back if you loosen up the bleeder screw?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks VisionJohnny. I'll try to remove it tonight. But I'm kind of still at a lost. Isn't the caliper mounted in a fixed location? And it depends in the pistons to move the pad and the floating rotor to center itself during comression? If so, I'm not sure what I am supposed to look at when I remove the caliper.

Bad V V, the bleeder was open. That's how I was able to retract the pistons. The issue that I'm having is that it seems that the rotor seems too far towards the wheel, which makes it impossible to put the new pad on the inside without brutal force. I was able to get it in, but it was wedged to inside of the stationary part of the caliper and the rotor. It was wedged so tight that I couldn't move the bike afterwards.
 

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If I remember correctly, the rotor does not float.It is bolted directly to the wheel.I think that the caliper should float a little with the bracket in order to keep it centered with the rotor.Although,i could be wrong about that. I have replaced my rear pads twice and haven't had much trouble.Do you have a service manual? It should be able to guide in the right direction. My computer crashed a couple months ago and I lost everything on it,including my copy of the service manual on it.I have the actual service manual, but it is packed as we are moving.If I run across it today while loading, I will look this up for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Tarzan. The steps listed in the original post was from my service manual. And you're right, the rotor is bolted to the wheel. But for some reason everything that I've found on Google says that it's a floating rotor(http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/Victory/victory_v92sc.htm). I'll check out the caliper float issue.

Aha!!! That's probably what VisionJohnny was talking about. I'll check it out tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
One last request guys. Can someone post a picture of what the assembled brake is supposed to look like. This will help me know what I am looking for once I finish.
 

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As I click off last time I wounder if you have the wrong pads and that why you can't get them in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Fixed

First off, thanks for everyone's suggestion. The problem ended up being something really stupid. I did have the correct pads (EBC's FA209/2), and the calipers do float.

However, one of the pins was bound up, which is why it was off centered. I attached a picture. The pin with the accordian-style rubber grommet did not allow for it center itself. I used a c-clamp and pushed the calipers towards the wheel. This gave me room to place both pads in the calipers without any issues. Once in, I pumped the brakes so that to get pressure back and to extract the pistons. The brakes work great now.

I'll just have to keep an eye on it to make make sure that the pads wear evenly.
 

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Your pads should wear pretty even. As far as the pin's goes I always put some antiseze on the pin's.
Glade your back to running
 

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caliper

I know this post is several years old, but I have the same problem with the rear caliper. How hard was it to move the caliper with the C-clamp? also how does the rear caliper come off? I cant get mine to move at all. Replacement parts show just the caliper without the bracket. I cant figure out how to get the caliper off. any thoughts?
 

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I know this post is several years old, but I have the same problem with the rear caliper. How hard was it to move the caliper with the C-clamp? also how does the rear caliper come off? I cant get mine to move at all. Replacement parts show just the caliper without the bracket. I cant figure out how to get the caliper off. any thoughts?
What year and model bike do you have?
 

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I have a 2000 V92C
from the looks of the parts list there is a bolt on the left side of caliper. Leave old pads in place and use c clamp to push pistions back in place
 

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There's no need to take the caliper off to install pads (no need for C-clamps or force either) & unless you've been topping off your brake fluid as the pads wear there's no need to open a bleed valve-just make sure there's room in the reservoir so when you push the pistons in it doesn't overflow. The rear caliper has the axle going through it's mount & a slot that engages with the swing arm to hold it during braking-If you replace pads during a tire change it's even easier.
 

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My issue is the same as the original post, brakes worked fine with the old brake pads. I installed the new pads; pistons went in with no problem. The problem is when the brakes were pumped up they pinch (drag) the rotor, what is happening is the caliper is frozen in place. Not centering on the rotor. What I’m trying to find out is how does the rotor come apart from the mounting bracket?
 
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