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We dont regularly see 6K+ though
BP6666VR
 

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Ohhhhh only the higher rpm breaks the regulators ... ?? OK understood

TaPaTaLk for VIC forum
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
Vic regulators break down?
Ohhhhh only the higher rpm breaks the regulators ... ?? OK understood
I didn't say that. I said I replaced MINE 3 times due to failure. Is it a Victory thing? I don't know. I gave them chances. Last time I replaced the stator too...

The definition of stupid is to repeat the same behavior over and over... while expecting a different result this time. Not buying another regulator/rectifier from Victory, sorry, just haven't had good luck with them.
 

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Thanks for the explanation HC, hopefully now you will never have to replace that regulator again ....

Of all the Vic's over here I never seen a broken stator / regulator

YET ....

TaPaTaLk for VIC forum
 

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I didn't say that. I said I replaced MINE 3 times due to failure. Is it a Victory thing? I don't know. I gave them chances. Last time I replaced the stator too...

The definition of stupid is to repeat the same behavior over and over... while expecting a different result this time. Not buying another regulator/rectifier from Victory, sorry, just haven't had good luck with them.
HD regulators have issues too or did on the earlier models up to 32 amp for the carb bikes. They would last between 50K and 75k on the average.
As many HD regulators failed from the cheap factory plugs which would arc and take out the electronics as failed from actual use. The 45 amp regulator uses a better plug which was moved out of the primary case where oil contamination was not longer a problem. (yah HD) However because of the after market HD regulators are cheap.
So if you could catch them when they were first going out and before they killed the battery and or stator it wasn't much more than an inconvenience.

When we toured with evo's we would throw a spare in the saddlebags. The wife ran a volt meter on her bike too which turned out to be a brilliant move. She watched that like a hawk. (much experience with regulators and dry batteries) first sign of over charging on went the spare, 2 bolts plug it in. Get home mail order another spare for $40. Keep it on the shelf and take it with us when we took a trip. Down the road, in the middle of east bum wherever on it went.


Judging by the price of Vic parts going to a HD regulator, if it works, is certainly worth a try. It could be more reliable on a vic. If it isn't more dependable but only lasts as long as a vic regulator it will certainly be cheaper to replace when it does fail.


The voltmeter on the wife's bagger just replaced the temperature gauge on the fairing dash. It was an analog meter. But it did save her a couple of batteries over the years she toured with that bike and probably a stator or two also.

They have some LED voltage monitors that I have heard are pretty accurate and look good but I haven't used one. As long as they are bright enough to be seen clearly in bright light, they should let you spot a regulator that is wanting to cost you another battery as long as they read high enough to let you spot over charging. I don't know if they dim automatically at night but you would think that might be a good feature too.
Haven't looked for one but might look for one in the future. I did run across this doing a quick search:http://www.bikemeters.com/cgi-bin/w...=alouoded146018658591&command=link--home.html

Do post how it turns out long term. Awesome idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Well... it was $75 cheaper.

If the bike is overcharging it only happens above 5500 rpm and the check engine light comes on.

At the track, it failed to shift and rev'ed out to 6800... blew the low beam headlight and lit the engine light.
 

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Well... it was $75 cheaper.

If the bike is overcharging it only happens above 5500 rpm and the check engine light comes on.

At the track, it failed to shift and rev'ed out to 6800... blew the low beam headlight and lit the engine light.
Since your experimenting with regulators, I found this thread on another forum that has a good explanation of how permanent magnet alternator actually work and some of their quirks. They turn out to be sort of an od bird. Maybe something in there will help you sort stuff out.

Facts about shunt-based regulators
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Since your experimenting with regulators, I found this thread on another forum that has a good explanation of how permanent magnet alternator actually work and some of their quirks. They turn out to be sort of an od bird. Maybe something in there will help you sort stuff out.

Facts about shunt-based regulators
Thanx. I'll check it out.
 

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I know with my 351 Cleveland the alternator pulleys were made bigger to slow the charge rate down under racing conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
I know with my 351 Cleveland the alternator pulleys were made bigger to slow the charge rate down under racing conditions.
That is done more to reduce parasitic power loss than to slow charging rate. The R/R is supposed to keep the charge rate right.
 

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That is done more to reduce parasitic power loss that to slow charging rate. The R/R is supposed to keep the charge rate right.
Well mate you are exactly right, I just googled it as well and this is what it said...

Underdrive pulleys increase engine output by reducing the draw of the engine's accessories by slowing them down and reducing the HP they use. Horsepower gains from underdrive pulleys can vary by vehicle, engine, number of accessories and the amount of underdrive (Improvements of up to 5-15 HP at the wheels have been seen). Additional and significant performance improvements can be seen by reducing the weight of the pulley versus the original pulley. Gains can range from 3-6 HP per pound of weight reduced.

Wow! up to 5-15 HP at the wheels, that is amazing...who would've thought? ...not me that's for sure!
 

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HC, I remember you saying your 110ci had "big hairy gorilla balls"... How does the 116ci compare?
 

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Well... it was $75 cheaper.

If the bike is overcharging it only happens above 5500 rpm and the check engine light comes on.

At the track, it failed to shift and rev'ed out to 6800... blew the low beam headlight and lit the engine light.
This is what I was looking for, I was sure Id read my same symptoms from HC
Check Engine Light and headlight goes out.

Is this HD unit a shunt or a series unit, need one that'll tolerate revs
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
This is what I was looking for, I was sure Id read my same symptoms from HC
Check Engine Light and headlight goes out.

Is this HD unit a shunt or a series unit, need one that'll tolerate revs
I don't know... Kyle and Rusty picked it out. I think it's from a 2007 Softail.
 

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I don't know... Kyle and Rusty picked it out. I think it's from a 2007 Softail.
ok, thanks for getting back to me mate,
Ill go see my local Vietnam Vet Harley expert, we call him Yankee Bob and his Stateside buddies call him Aussie Bob!....he's lived here a long time.
Ill see if he has anything on his shelf that'll get me back on the road.
But I intend to 'bite the bullet' and contact Jack of roadstercycle and order his SH847 Super Kit as my bikes a keeper and from what I read its the best system especially for a bike thats hot rodded and pulling more RPMs and its a lot easier on the stator to boot.
Dollarwise theres a Mosfet FH020AA of suspect origin for $169
or a unit of same name from a reliable source here for $349 with plugs kit.
or Jacks superior SH847 for $334 Ausd priority shipped (downside the wait time)

But hey I'm the king of Victory downtime and I make up for it once I'm back on the road:smile
Thanks again.
 

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Reading through old threads about the yellow bike tonight, so I'll add that I've fitted one of Jack's SH847 R/R's to the yellow bike not long after I got my hands on it.
Bike had a flat battery by the time it got here and the importers jump started it and tried to charge the battery with the bike!
Bad move...I reckon that fried the regulator, ....So after buying a new battery I bit the bullet and went for the big upgrade on the regulator too...Well the one I put on the Vegas worked great so it was an obvious choice.
Not cheap but the best deserved the best I reckon.
the XC on the other hand never really sees more than 4000rpm, maybe 4500 so I don't envisage and failures with its Vic unit.
But if it ever did Id upgrade it too.
Rode yesterday with a mate with a real nice 2006 Softail, over the top of the mountain we were held up by 2 cars behind a truck, I saw a good clear space to take them all, knowing what this bikes capable of, I just hit it hard in third gear and was Gone!
Out- past em all- and back in,
all quick n' safe, felt great too.
A look in the mirror and Rick didn't bother, caught me a mile or so up the road and I slowed and let him lead till we got to the back of Burleigh where he went left and I went right, to go see the fellas at Burleigh Bars while I was out that way.

Rick txt me today says
" Feck! that bike of yours goes!!!"

Yeah it does!
Kingpins got another 6,250 miles on the motor since it landed here,
think it had around 5K on the motor when it got here, possibly less.
Blows me away every time I ride it.
Poor ol XC don't get much use.
Took the Dodge Lancer up to the Classic/Muscle/Barnfinds Auctions two days ago to move it on... Driving a 170cube Slant Six with 3 speed manual and a 3.23 diff certainly ain't no powerhouse, and Left Hand Drive I don't mind, but shifting a non synchro 3 speed floor change with my right hand while steering a 60 years old drum braked relic just wasn't doing it for me.
Pity really cos it came out looking hot in purple , lowered down, fat wheels...sheep in wolf's clothing.
We will see if it makes my reserve.
 

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HC has many faults but bike building was not one of them. You got a good bike there for sure.

A real American muscle bike.
The bikes built and performs great!
It's much admired by many here.
 
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