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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,
I am removing the valve covers on my 2013 Hammer 8ball in order to send them out for new chrome. The factory Chrome is peeling / chipping really bad.
Anyways, I got the valve cover on the front head off without an issue. The rear is hung up on the timing chain and other internal working. Has anyone pulled off the valve covers and have any suggestions? Can I just move the wires / tubing out of the way and maneuver the cover over / around the internal workings? or do I have to go a much more in depth route?
Thanks!
 

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It would be like swapping cams. I know there's a trick to doing it on the X-bikes but not sure about the steel frame Vic's. I'd call Rylan Vos and ask him.

You may need to drop the engine a few inches to get it off. If that's the case; you might want to consider dropping in some performance cams at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have seen posts about doing a valve cover removal on a victory XC by loosening the rear engine mount, but the engine mount in the rear is slightly different between an XC and Hammer. I can loosen the rear backbone but should it be remove completely for me to let the motor drop so I can get clearance? or just loosen the backbone and pry like a mofo and hope to get clearance
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It would be like swapping cams. I know there's a trick to doing it on the X-bikes but not sure about the steel frame Vic's. I'd call Rylan Vos and ask him.

You may need to drop the engine a few inches to get it off. If that's the case; you might want to consider dropping in some performance cams at the same time.
Yea I've been reading about it all afternoon. The steel frame bikes are slightly different and have ever less clearance than the X models. While I am into this, I am going to drop in some performance cams. considering its only a few additional steps from where I am at now.

Thanks
 

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Hey All,

I am removing the valve covers on my 2013 Hammer 8ball in order to send them out for new chrome. The factory Chrome is peeling / chipping really bad.

Anyways, I got the valve cover on the front head off without an issue. The rear is hung up on the timing chain and other internal working. Has anyone pulled off the valve covers and have any suggestions? Can I just move the wires / tubing out of the way and maneuver the cover over / around the internal workings? or do I have to go a much more in depth route?

Thanks!
When i did my cams i was not able to do it also ...

If you turn the engine over then the valves are in a closed or open position and you can slide out the cam cover

I on the other hand had to drop the engine a few centimeter, grrrrr that was a #([email protected]'/ of a job , ha ha ha

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I need like an 1/8 inch more clearance to get it over the valves. hoping I am missing something or some weird way to maneuver it out before I drop the engine.

How did you drop the engine?
 

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I need like an 1/8 inch more clearance to get it over the valves. hoping I am missing something or some weird way to maneuver it out before I drop the engine.



How did you drop the engine?
You need to rotate the crankshaft, so the valves close or open .... Then you maybe can slide it out

Dropping the engine 2 cm is a pain ... There are some dowels inside the boltholes

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@Quinton Johnson

Any update or luck ?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
None. I have a buddy coming over this weekend to help me watch for when the exhaust valve closes. I had to walk away from it this weekend as I knew I would keep forcing it and eventually break something! Temporary hiatus
 

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None. I have a buddy coming over this weekend to help me watch for when the exhaust valve closes. I had to walk away from it this weekend as I knew I would keep forcing it and eventually break something! Temporary hiatus
Good choice ... Take your time

I dropped the rear of the engine, but i did not know about rotating the crank at that time and slide that cover off ... If you take out the plugs it is easier to rotate the crank, just rotate the back tire the same way as you are driving



Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Oy!

Wow! Just went to the shop manual for my 15 Gunner to see that they say to drop the engine to remove the covers. This was not the case for my v92tc. I will be following this thread for tips and tricks.

Good luck going forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow! Just went to the shop manual for my 15 Gunner to see that they say to drop the engine to remove the covers. This was not the case for my v92tc. I will be following this thread for tips and tricks.

Good luck going forward.
Ill be attempting this weekend to pull the rear cover off... again. Will update with pictures and what not when im successful.
All I want to do is re chrome my valve covers... and now im so deep into this project I may be doing a cam...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay, so great success today. I finally got it off. I am nervous about the reinstall, but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it. Here are some tips and photos I took.



That is with the exhaust valve closed. I rotated the engine in first gear to close the valve. It wasn't an easy task pushing the bike in my garage and hoping to get the valve to close. A friend helping would have been a big help. Note how much clearance you don't have





Above are a few pictures of it finished and everything that was remove. Spark plug wire to the rear cylinder had to go. Pulled off the injector harness and wire. I have a Ram Air airfilter that sits under my tank, so that as well as the throttle body was relocated. Otherwise, once it is all off I slid the valve cover toward the front of the bike and rotated it about 45 degree counter clockwise. Finagled it a bit and it popped off. I couldnt get the intake manifold off, but it would have been a big help if I could have gotten it off.
 

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Bravo!

Great work, Quinton! So the information you got was correct. After the re-chrome job, and a bit of finagling, hopefully she will go back together and you will be on the road again.

Thanks for getting back to me about the project.
 

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Good job. You said that it was hard rolling the bike around the garage to close and open the valves. It might have been easier to put the bike on a Lift so the rear tire would be off the floor?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Will update on how the reinstall goes for sure! That won't be for a few weeks as chrome plating isn't a quick turn around time.

Yes, I think im going to drop in a set of Lloydz cams while I have it all open. I didn't really anticipate that, but it seems like theres no time like the present lol. I'm already this far into it, why not continue on.

As for putting the bike on a stand, it may have been easier, but I am not privy to such equipment. I have only my garage space and no room for a stand at the moment.
 

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Why not indeed!
Cams are the heart of the engine.
Let it breathe deeply.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Now I'm looking into Lloydz cams and I see on their website two options that I can't find the difference between.
The HOH-505 Signature cams for 09-up steel frame bike and the HOH-501 Street Grind. Can anyone put me in the right direction?
 

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Now I'm looking into Lloydz cams and I see on their website two options that I can't find the difference between.
The HOH-505 Signature cams for 09-up steel frame bike and the HOH-501 Street Grind. Can anyone put me in the right direction?
My guess is the 501 is a bit lumpier than the 505 which stresses low to midrange improvement.
Ring Lloyd and clarify it,
I ring from Australia and talk to them , also I ring Kevinx at Southern Motorworx for guidance on my build , which has the maximum lumpy 506 (.495 lift) that requires clearancing and heavier valve springs and complements the Big bore kit I've had installed.
It's created a ballsy monster that I love with seriously strong mid and upper rev range performance .

Strangely in this new high tech world people don't really use the telephone to communicate person to person any more.
I'm old school and not afraid to ring and talk to someone to find the real answers .
 
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