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Discussion Starter #1
Can this be done? I want to ceramic coat the covers. According to the service manual, the engine has to come out first. I'm hoping someone has already done this before.
 

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It's not that hard at all. Find the cam install instructions on here and follow them to the point of removing the valve covers. Then ceramic coat and re-install. While your there it wouldn't be a bad time to throw in some cams either. :D
 

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...........:I agree:.......
 

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Can this be done? I want to ceramic coat the covers. According to the service manual, the engine has to come out first. I'm hoping someone has already done this before.
It is a little nerve racking to think about it for the first time but it is easy. Breaking the back bone sounds heavy but is not. Take the 2 bolts out of the front of the triangle mounting bracket where the 2 cast aluminum back bones meet and remove one of the front back bone bolts and loosen the other at the front. Place a 2X4 across the back of the back cylinder to rest on the cast belt guard and the primary drive. Cut another piece of wood about 3-1/2" long and pry with a crow bar. Move the front back bone up about 1/2" and the cover slips out easily. I just did this for the first time and it felt great. added chrome covers on the XR 8 Ball.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Excellent. I have been poring over the service manual trying to see how to do this. I assume I have to take off the fuel tank?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Excellent. Thanks.
 

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Click the cam install link in my signature to see how to break the backbone.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, Phil. That's what I've been looking for; a video. The manual doesn't cut it in some ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm going to tackle this tomorrow after lunch. In reviewing your PDF tutorial, I see where it calls for removing the dipstick, right side floorboard and spark wires and plugs. In my case (I'm just removing the covers, ceramic coating them and then replacing them), I don't have to do any of that, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also, I read this:

"I tried getting the rear valve cover off, but there is a plug on the side of the valve cover towards the front and it prevents me from being able to pull the valve cover forward or backwards to remove it. I have loosened the bolt that attaches the rear top motor mount to the engine and then removed the two front , rear motor mount bolts. I then used a long pry bar and stuck it through the slot in the rear top motor mount, and inserted it against the engine to try to pry it up. Ihoped this would raise the top frame member. But, to no avail."

Was he doing something wrong?
 

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I'm going to tackle this tomorrow after lunch. In reviewing your PDF tutorial, I see where it calls for removing the dipstick, right side floorboard and spark wires and plugs. In my case (I'm just removing the covers, ceramic coating them and then replacing them), I don't have to do any of that, right?
You can leave the dip stick and floor boards in place. You only remove the dip stick, floor boards, and timing gear cover if doing the cam swap.

Also, I read this:

"I tried getting the rear valve cover off, but there is a plug on the side of the valve cover towards the front and it prevents me from being able to pull the valve cover forward or backwards to remove it. I have loosened the bolt that attaches the rear top motor mount to the engine and then removed the two front , rear motor mount bolts. I then used a long pry bar and stuck it through the slot in the rear top motor mount, and inserted it against the engine to try to pry it up. Ihoped this would raise the top frame member. But, to no avail."

Was he doing something wrong?
Uh yes. Remove the injector wire connections. They interfere with the cover. Just follow the write up on the portion on how to break the backbone and the bolts to loosen and remove. Read Page 13 again ("The Kinda Scary Part") to the top 2 paragraphs of page 14. The picture reference is on page 18 and 26. You'll notice that the only bolts removed are the two that join the front back bone section. Loosen the one that is attached to the rear of the engine and then remove the two that I've indicated. You may want to loosen the two bolts that are attached to the rear backbone. That should help in separating the backbones. In the pic on page 26 you'll see my big screw driver inserted into one of the empty bolt holes. One thing you may want to do is to spray some PB Blaster or WD 40 where the backbones meet. Over the course of time moisture will get in there and gunk up the tiny gap and give you more headaches than what it's worth. Rap on the top then bottom with your hammer to loosen it up. If that doesn't work, finagle a 2x4 on a small jack and place the end under the front backbone then lift.

I've sent you my email addy so you can get a faster response. It goes right to my phone.
 
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