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Discussion Starter #1
My first repair with RTV didnt work, because it wouldnt adhere to the rubber side. So i cleaned and scrubbed both surfaces with alcohol and reattached them with JB weld, making sure i covered and sealed every area. Now the bike idles an drives more smoothly than it ever has since i've owned it..... This time, it should last the life of the bike.
 

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sorry don't think it will have dealer order you the intake boot
Its only 62 bucks as a posed to leaning out motor and burning valves
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
sorry don't think it will have dealer order you the intake boot
Its only 62 bucks as a posed to leaning out motor and burning valves
I pulled on it REALLY hard to make sure after it dried. Why would i waste money on another factory unit that will just separate again in 20k miles? As i said before, it idles perfectly smooth now with no intake leaks.
 

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Idk man, I'm not about forum politics or taking sides but I'd go with a new boot.
 

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Buy a new throttle body adaptor and new O-rings too.
Have you seen how much the intake moves when the engine is running? JB weld ain't gonna hold.

20K miles? How come mine lasted 7 years and 80K miles?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Idk man, I'm not about forum politics or taking sides but I'd go with a new boot.
What does this have to do with either of those? It's a simple issue of improving a part instead of spending money on the same part with insufficient lifespan.
 

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What does this have to do with either of those? It's a simple issue of improving a part instead of spending money on the same part with insufficient lifespan.
I wandered the same thing about politics and sides.:confused:
But I agree that it probably won't last. The boot is flexible for an important reason. The JB Weld has created a very rigid section on the boot. I've used JB Weld for many repairs on old equipment, but only for rigid applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You improved a part?
JB weld on a properly prepared surface is extremely strong. I didn't only apply it to the top, but along the mating surface between the rubber and the aluminum plate. I'll remove it periodically to check adhesion and post updates.
 

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What does this have to do with either of those? It's a simple issue of improving a part instead of spending money on the same part with insufficient lifespan.
Just my way of saying that I'm not disagreeing with you just to disagree but I don't think that your idea is a very good one. Even if the boot only lasts 20k, $62 is really cheap insurance for the next 20k. Especially when you spend that much on an oil change kit for just a few thousand miles of assurance. I wouldn't take my chances on burning a valve or having detonation from a lean condition ruin my engine for just trying to save $62.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Just my way of saying that I'm not disagreeing with you just to disagree but I don't think that your idea is a very good one. Even if the boot only lasts 20k, $62 is really cheap insurance for the next 20k. Especially when you spend that much on an oil change kit for just a few thousand miles of assurance. I wouldn't take my chances on burning a valve or having detonation from a lean condition ruin my engine for just trying to save $62.
It's not about saving $62, it's about using a stronger adhesive than they use at the factory, thus improving the part and saving my pistons..... And i use Rotella T6. Spending $60 on 5qts of oil and a filter is unnecessary. (But there are plenty of other threads beating that dead horse.)
 

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Rumble, I support you. High fives for finding a way to solve a problem. If it holds for eternity, great. If not, no biggie, eh? I go with T-6 and Wix too. Cheers mate.
 

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It's not about saving $62, it's about using a stronger adhesive than they use at the factory, thus improving the part and saving my pistons..... And i use Rotella T6. Spending $60 on 5qts of oil and a filter is unnecessary. (But there are plenty of other threads beating that dead horse.)
Well good luck on your repair man, hope it works out for ya.
 

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There's nothing wrong with trying a cheap fix first! Also another cheapskate T6 user here!
 

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There's nothing wrong with trying a cheap fix first! Also another cheapskate T6 user here!
Make that frugal and practical. :rolleyes:
 

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sorry I had to look. Great you tried but some day maybe a 100 miles from home its going to let loose on you.


Is there anything that J-B Weld WON’T bond to?



J-B Weld will not adhere or bond well to:
•Any flexible rubber surface
•Leather
•Vinyl
•Canvas
•Polypropylene plastic
•Polyethylene plastic
 

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Discussion Starter #18
sorry I had to look. Great you tried but some day maybe a 100 miles from home its going to let loose on you.


Is there anything that J-B Weld WON’T bond to?



J-B Weld will not adhere or bond well to:
•Any flexible rubber surface
•Leather
•Vinyl
•Canvas
•Polypropylene plastic
•Polyethylene plastic
Oh for fux sake. The rubber part is flat against the aluminum and isnt allowed to flex. It's not like i put JB weld on the side if the tube itself to seal a tear or something.
 

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