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Discussion Starter #1
After seeing the saddlebag lid rails in chrome and black at the Javits Ctr. show in NYC, I had to put 'em on. Was a little concerned about drilling into the lids but like the end result. 2013 chrome 004.jpg
 

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Looking good, Joe! thumb up
 

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how did you did these strips on your seat?
 

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grab bars?

Looks good especially with the chrome grab bars. I have the rails but not the grab bars. What did those run you and are they a Victory or after market part?
 

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Looks great..I want them in black but cant afford them I might have to put some HD ones on there..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks good especially with the chrome grab bars. I have the rails but not the grab bars. What did those run you and are they a Victory or after market part?
The grab bars are Victory part #2877480 MSRP $299.99. The Co-Pilot wanted them. She uses them and like 'em.

The seat was recovered black/grey Ostrich by a local upholsterer. The bike does have an attraction. Thanks for your comments.
 

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can i ask how much did you pay for that seat done?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The seat, recovered, with a fairly quick turn around time, was right around $250.00. Changed the whole look of the bike. :)
 

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Does it come with a template to show you where to drill? or is it a guessing game..haha
 

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I bet the underside of the lid is dimpled to show where to drill. My trunk lid is for the rack and the lowers were to add locks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I bet the underside of the lid is dimpled to show where to drill. My trunk lid is for the rack and the lowers were to add locks.
The lids are not dimpled. The rails cost as much as they do because, included, are two templates. One for each side. Place them on the bags. Tape them. Hope for the best. Fortunately, the drill didn't slip out of my sweaty hands. !! :)
 

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Oh that is the worst part drilling with sweaty hands and at a angle. One slip and its all over been there done that way to many times.>HAHA Glad it turned out...
 

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I just bought a brand new set of Victory Saddlebag Lid Rails. I'm a little nervous about installing them. Do any of you have any regrets. Or anything I might need to do when drilling the holes?
 

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Tommy,
Get a roll of that blue painters tape. Cover the portion of the lids where rails will go overlapping tape a little bit. Center the rails up and use a sharpie to draw a circle around the bases or legs of the rails. Drill in the center of those circles. Pull tape off, shine lids if needed and install. DONE.
To be honest here, Not my idea. Saw it on one of the forums. WORKS though.
 

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Tommy,
Get a roll of that blue painters tape. Cover the portion of the lids where rails will go overlapping tape a little bit. Center the rails up and use a sharpie to draw a circle around the bases or legs of the rails. Drill in the center of those circles. Pull tape off, shine lids if needed and install. DONE.
To be honest here, Not my idea. Saw it on one of the forums. WORKS though.
Thanks smoke. I know there are templates, but I don't always trust them. I think I will use the blue tape, templates, and sharpie. Thanks bro. :)
 

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Also, start by using the smallest bit you can find to use as a centering guide. It is less likely to creep than a larger bit.
 

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Also, start by using the smallest bit you can find to use as a centering guide. It is less likely to creep than a larger bit.
I was just telling my father in law that last night. I do have quite a few bits. 9/10x I drill I start small for the pilot hole. Both idea's are going to save my ass. Blue tape and starting with a smaller drill bit. And of course making the circles with the sharpie. Thanks guys
 

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A split point drill bit has an included angle of 135° vs the standard 118° and it is not necessary to center punch with a split point drill bit as it's self-centering.

Standard Point Drill Bits

  • Every woodworker has used countless standard drill bits over the course of multiple projects, and for general construction, these bits should accommodate your needs. The shaft of the bit has two curving grooves, called spurs, that lift debris from the hole you are drilling. The tip of a standard bit is smooth, coming to a slight point, almost as if the bit tip is wearing a small, rounded cap. Unfortunately, unless your wood provides substantial friction and your drill is perfectly perpendicular to the surface, these smooth-cap points can slip off target and gouge your wood. This is called "walking."

Split-Point Drill Bits

  • Falling into the speed bit category, split-point bits almost completely eliminate "walking." The shaft of a quality split-point bit features three grooves that lift away debris, allowing you to drill holes faster and with less chance of snags. These grooves continue all the way to the tip of the bit, where they cut into the tip's cap, breaking the smooth surface. This creates a grooved bit tip that more easily anchors itself in the wood and keeps your bit on target.

 
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