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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2012 XC in May and thought I scraping the floorboards in turns that didn't feel were that deep. It turns out it's not the floorboards but the Crash bars. They're the wide chrome bars and this worries me because they've got no give like like floorboards or foot pegs. Has anyone else had this problem and what can be done about it? Seems weird that the Crash bars would extend lower than the floor boards... thanks!

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Wow. I don't have the forged bars, so I can't give you a definitive answer. But I have touched footboard a couple times. The rear corner of the footboard should touch before the bars. Looking at the lower mounting points for the rear pegs, it would appear they've met pavement a time or two as well, although I'm not sure how it's possible I've never noticed that while it was happening...or whether it's even possible.
 

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Holy Cow SpecialK...There ain't no chicken strips on your tires!!
 

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Used, lowered?

Is your bike lowered? Guessing you bought it used being a 2012. I have a 2011 Cross Roads(XR). If it is lowered it will scrape parts sooner of course. Now here is one for you. I bought my bike new. The dealer told me they were going to lower my bike because I was so short (in there eyes, ha, ha). I am 5'7" , stopped growing taller a long time ago. I told the sales guy, no do not lower the bike. Dealer asked why not? I said I do not want to scrape the bike in turns. Well I had to change out the rear shock not to long ago. While I had it all apart I found the top pivot for the shock/linage hookup was installed upside down, thus they went ahead and lowered the bike. I flipped it over with the new shock(Penske). Yes now the bike sits taller and I am reaching further to the ground of course, but the bike has more ground clearance. I have scraped my bike before on the right side. My bike had the round engine guards from Victory on it, and I scraped the right engine guard. I did not know I had scraped it until I noticed it changing the front tire one day. The draw back to the bike being taller? Yesterday leaving a friends house he had to help me push the bike backwards out of his yard, could not pull it forward were it was parked. So yes all said I have scraped the engine guard, but at the time the bike was sitting lower than stock.
:eek
 

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You positive you're hitting forged bars? Mine have scrapes from speed bumps, etc, but the only thing that touches on mine are bottom outer edge of front side of tri-ovals. Never touched down the bars, and have only hit the floorboards on goofy intersection gutters & bumps in town - never on an actual clean corner while riding.
 

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I bought a 2012 XC in May and thought I scraping the floorboards in turns that didn't feel were that deep. It turns out it's not the floorboards but the Crash bars. They're the wide chrome bars and this worries me because they've got no give like like floorboards or foot pegs. Has anyone else had this problem and what can be done about it? Seems weird that the Crash bars would extend lower than the floor boards... thanks!

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk
Your right to be worried. If you hook the crash bars hard they will lift the tire and you will most likely go down short of a miracle.
Don't know what is causing it but don't go there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You positive you're hitting forged bars? Mine have scrapes from speed bumps, etc, but the only thing that touches on mine are bottom outer edge of front side of tri-ovals. Never touched down the bars, and have only hit the floorboards on goofy intersection gutters & bumps in town - never on an actual clean corner while riding.
I'm pretty sure it's the crash bars. The corners of them appear to be lower than than the floor boards. I bought the bike used but only had 5900 miles on it. I wonder if there isn't something screwy going on...

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They are lower, but the low part is right against the frame - have a couple buddies help lean it over & see what hits. Are the fork tubes sticking out the top of the triple clamps? Should be flush....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm thinking now, thanks to y'all, that the bike may be lowered. I'm not quite 5' 8" and my feet are planted and knees bent. But still, shouldn't the floor boards scrape? How would the forged crash bars be lower than the floor boards? Everything should go down proportionally if lowered, right? Or am I missing something? By the way, y'all are great. Thanks for responding!

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I'm thinking now, thanks to y'all, that the bike may be lowered. I'm not quite 5' 8" and my feet are planted and knees bent. But still, shouldn't the floor boards scrape? How would the forged crash bars be lower than the floor boards? Everything should go down proportionally if lowered, right? Or am I missing something? By the way, y'all are great. Thanks for responding!

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If your fork tubes are not flush with the triple clamp, the previous owner lowered the front. Doing this can cause the geometry to be off from the manufacturers original intent if not matched appropriately in the rear and would cause scraping to occur on the front end. Very dangerous.
 

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I dropped mine and while it was napping the crash bars obviously touched but long after the boards hit and folded up.
With the amount of the tire still on the ground I'm sure I could've ridden off the ground had I not been in my garage.
 
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Be Careful, But You Can Scrape All Sorts of Things

I've done two track days on my XCT, one last August at Thompson, CT (see Non-Sportbike Track Day, Aug. 2015 ) and one this May at Loudon, NH (see Non-Sportbike Trackday, Loudon, NH, May 2016 ). So I've been doing a bunch of leaning and scraping, but in a controlled and repeatable environment (and with two ambulances at each track day -- no waiting -- should anything go wrong).

The floorboards touch down fairly early, but they fold up some. (Curiously, the left floorboard folds up to a much greater degree than the right floorboard, at least on my '12 XCT.) So the floorboards are kind of like peg feelers on many sportier bikes; those are metal pegs that are meant to be ground down, typically on the bottom of the foot pegs.

What hits next depends on a few factors, and will of course be something that doesn't fold. I've attached some pics here:

1: Leaning seen from the side, crash guard almost down, bag guard pretty close to down.

When I was at Loudon earlier this year, Gordon Clogston -- he owns a blue XCT, and was actually outpacing me a bit (I know, hard to believe, but I have a bit of it on video) -- showed me his bike near the end of the day. The saddlebag guard (I forget which side) was flattened on the bottom, near the middle. I'm talking about the part that runs lengthwise, alongside the bag. You can see in pic 1 that I'm almost doing the same thing. (One of the track day instructors told me that he suggested to Gordon that he slow down a tad, as the instructor could see that he was living on the edge.)

2: Right side support bottom, the piece that holds the battery grill in place. Same as the left side piece (not shown).

When I was installing a new sidestand a month ago -- in one of my rare down-on-the-ground beside the bike moments, I happened to look at the bottom of the side panel, or whatever you call that thing. It holds the battery grill in place, and the 40-amp auto-reset breaker lives behind it on the left. In any case, the bottom was nicely scraped. I checked the other side: same thing. So I guess I've been touching that part of the bike down, a time or two.

3: Centerstand support bottom on Suzuki Burgman 650.

I did a track day a couple of weeks ago at Palmer, MA, on the Burgman (see Non-Sportbike Track Day, Palmer, MA, 08-22-2016 ). That's a pic of the centerstand base, which used to be square, and is now beveled. So you could say that that's a hard part that is also like a peg feeler, i.e., metal -- a hard part -- but metal that can be ground down with no ill effects.

Now, there are of course a few things you can do about this:

- Slow down (no fun).

- Adjust your line; sometimes possible, sometimes not desirable.

- Lean off a bit or, better, a lot, i.e., slide your butt over, and get your shoulder and the rest of your torso down (sometimes referred to as "kissing the mirror") into the inside of a turn. The more mass you shift down and low inside a turn, the less the bike has to lean (for a given speed and radius).

- Set your shock higher; I have mine at about 40psi when doing track days. This will give the bike more ground clearance, more in the back, and about half that much more in the front.

So, like peg feelers, often you can touch down hard parts -- somewhat! -- and not crash. The Thompson track was particularly nice for experimentation, because it had sweeping turns that were very flat (although some had some nasty pavement seams); you could start scraping a floorboard, and leave the angle alone for the whole turn, scraping the whole time.

But, yep, you have to be careful if you're riding like that. Sometimes it's handy to know you can lean more, e.g., if a decreasing radius turn sneaks up on you, or something falls off a car in front, etc. And, yep, you have to be careful, because you can get into trouble. Nice to practice during track days, where you get to practice increasing leans on the same set of curves all day (and where those ambulances are standing by).





 

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How much air is in your rear shock? Check it to see, then pump it up to 65psi with a hand pump, not an air compressor hose. Then ride that same road to see if there's a difference. It 'could' simply be your rear shock has too little air in it therefore causing the back to ride too low and parts to scrape that normally would not.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
How much air is in your rear shock? Check it to see, then pump it up to 65psi with a hand pump, not an air compressor hose. Then ride that same road to see if there's a difference. It 'could' simply be your rear shock has too little air in it therefore causing the back to ride too low and parts to scrape that normally would not.
The manual says the pressure in the shock should be 0 for my weight. I pump it to 33 with my wife on the back. I have a XC with ABS.

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The manual says the pressure in the shock should be 0 for my weight. I pump it to 33 with my wife on the back. I have a XC with ABS.

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Was riding with a gal who had hers at 0 & rear end was squirrelly. We put 20 in it & it smoothed right out without beating her up. She's ~135ish, 140 in gear. Seems like it should have a few psi. For me, manual says 29. I leave it at 45. Still comfy for me, and if the wife or one of my boys hops on for a ride across town, it doesn't wallow around on me.
 

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I weigh 185lbs... I run zero air in the rear shock, bike is lowered 1.5". I have never scraped my crash bar but I drag my exhaust tips all over the place. I used to drag my floorboards until I put my 21" wheel on. Dragging the crash bar is freaky... You could highside yourself pretty easily. Not a lot of give in the crash bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After all the conversation I'm starting to think it couldn't be the crash bars scraping. It it were, I'd feel it all through the bike - I don't. What freaked me out was how much scrape there is on the bottom of the crash bar. It's a used bike and anything could have happened. The previous owner told me the bike had been rear-ended but damage was only cosmetic - but the bike could have done sustained the crash bar scrapes then. Who knows. I'm going to put duct tape on the bars and floor boards to see what gets scraped off.

My tail pipes are also longer than stock and they might drag too. They're both scraped up.

I really appreciate all the info and comments. I think I'm now on the right track!

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